As long as the engine is out, anything worth doing?

[SS/GNX]

Fresh 87 GN motor going in my car, but was wondering as long as the engine isnt in the car yet...

What would be worth doing to it to make it hold up better? recommendations and costs... (im on a budget here... so lets not get crazy! )

Ive heard about those girdles, but sound expensive to buy and get put on.. so I dont know about that.

But what about headgaskets or ARP bolts or main caps or something?

Suggestions with prices?

P.S. For now my goals is just to get it running. Then 12s immediately after that. Then low 11s after the wedding in September...

Not sure how much faster I can go than that on the stock bottom end and still be able to drive her everyday and not blow anything up.

 

[gnx139]

As long as the engine is out! You could take off the headers and clean up the first few inches by deburring and smoothing them. And the heads too.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Having just done my engine, I'll give you a partial list of my recs (of course, budget allowing- but if you have to pull it out again for a re-do, you'll know what I mean when I say 'build your second engine the first time ):

Plan your build- if you want to go 10.3, then build the engine AND the car to meet that goal. Remember, anything faster than 11.49 will need to be caged if you track the car.


Parts Recommendations:

>roller cam/lifters (non billet)
>ported iron heads
>ARP head hardware
>Felpro gaskets
>wider bearings
>stock main caps
>relocate the grounds on the back of the passenger head to a more accessible location
>new style front cover that's been blueprinted

You can bore the thing and stroke it, and do all the cool expensive stuff if you want- the above list is some of the things I've done to my car, and it's a reliable 11 sec daily driver. And, it looks stock, which is great for the unsuspecting ricer.......

The stock bottom end has been pushed well into the 10s- the thing is pretty stout from the factory.

HTH

 

[Quiky One]

Don't forget a new timing chain with metal gears.

Jason

 

[SouthernCal GN]

If you're going with a roller cam, then I'd agree- a good quality roller chain (WITHOUT the tensioner) is a must. But, if you decide to go with a flat tappet cam, I'd go with the OEM gearset- yup, that's right, the nylon coated one.

 

[jpratt]

I really wish I would have detailed the engine compartment better. a fresh coat of paint after degreasing would make the car sooooo much better looking. Also kinda wish I did the front control arms, springs and shock with no engine in the way.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Did all that- and am so glad I did!

 

[onefastcar]

Sounds like it has already been rebuilt so i suspect going in the engine is not an option, i would at least port match the exhaust headers and relocate the head grounds, look at a 3" down pipe for future expansion. Do you have a new fuel pump and hotwire kit on it?

 

[SS/GNX]

Fuel system is actually a fuel cell in the trunk with foam and a steel braided line running to the front. I will need a return line and an inline pump. Also gonna need a regulator.

Engine is put together, but pulling the pan off to put on some stronger main caps or bolts isnt really a big deal. At least I dont think it is...

Thanks for the posts so far, keep em rolling.

Yes, I will be detailing the hell out of the engine compartment the engine looks amazing, so I dont want to put it in some dirty compartment!

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Very nice. Get the drivers side valve cover breather, and a drip shield for the pass side breather- keeps the oil off those pretty headers....

 

[onefastcar]

New main caps involves a line bore (complete tear down). i believe you are past that. looks like stock injectors, will not accomplish low 11's safely, money could be spent better elsewhere the stock motor is good to 11's as is.

 

[GNVenom]

Couldn't be a better time to upgrade those ground wires on the passenger side.

No engine in the way makes it real easy.