scot w.
GNSperformance.com
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2005
Let me start of by mentioning that after receiving these BAER brake products, they are top notch and top quality! Everything comes with this kit to complete the install and that makes things VERY EASY when installing these! The Rotors & Calipers seemed to impress everyone who came through our doors and people were amazed at the quality of the parts..
After some review we decided to go with the 4-piston calipers vs the 6-piston, reason for this was cost vs actual difference. Performance wise there really isn't much difference between the 4 & 6 piston calipers (per Rick E.). Since we have 18" wheels on this car we obviously wanted to go as large as possible yet still keep within budget. We decided on the BAER Track4 for the front which has 13" rotors & 4-piston calipers mounted on OEM spindles. This whole set up comes Pre-installed on the OEM spindles right from BAER. Makes for one hell of an easy installation.
There is a bunch of room left behind the CCW 18" wheel that I even believe the Track 4 system will work with most 17" wheels but should always be checked with the BAER template to be sure. (In PDF file located at the bottom of post)
For the rears we decided on BAER's NEW SS4 system which has 12" rotors & 4-piston calipers with the emergency brake!
Today we got some time to start the front brakes and in just 2 hrs the front brakes were done!!! Yes just 2 hrs....
Old Caliper & Rotor set up taken out:There are many ways/methods to doing this but this is what worked for us and was safe for us.
What we did was:
1) Remove the top nut on the sway bar link.
2) Remove the nut holding the tie-rod to the spindle turned the nut upside down and threaded it back on and hit the nut with a hammer and the ball joint & tie-rod popped right out.
3) Removed the nuts holding the upper & lower a-arms to the spindle, turned those nuts upside down and threaded them back on till they were flush with the top of the threads. Hit the spindle with a hammer until it broke free and was now held on by the nuts. Now take a floor jack and put it right under the lower a-arm joint, jack up until you support with some pressure and remove both upper & lower nuts. Remove brake line from car and slowly lower the jack about 2" OR until the upper joint comes loose. Once it's loose you can push the upper a-arm up and simply pull off the old set up all in one piece.
Old "Stock" vs the New!
Here the New BAER brake set up is installed:
Upper ball-joint Torqued to 65 ft lbs.
Lower Ball-joint Torqued to 80 ft lbs.
Tie-rod ball-joint Torqued to 35 ft lbs.
Banjo fitting Torqued to 20 ft lbs.
Cotter pins were yet to be installed last. (Don't get any easier than that for a complete Bolt-in kit!!)
Finished!! Everything is double and triple checked and cotter pins installed. Repeat process on other side and done!
Stay tuned, The rear system is next!
To see if BAER Brakes will fit your wheels watch this video and it will show you how to print a template to use
Scot W.
After some review we decided to go with the 4-piston calipers vs the 6-piston, reason for this was cost vs actual difference. Performance wise there really isn't much difference between the 4 & 6 piston calipers (per Rick E.). Since we have 18" wheels on this car we obviously wanted to go as large as possible yet still keep within budget. We decided on the BAER Track4 for the front which has 13" rotors & 4-piston calipers mounted on OEM spindles. This whole set up comes Pre-installed on the OEM spindles right from BAER. Makes for one hell of an easy installation.
There is a bunch of room left behind the CCW 18" wheel that I even believe the Track 4 system will work with most 17" wheels but should always be checked with the BAER template to be sure. (In PDF file located at the bottom of post)
For the rears we decided on BAER's NEW SS4 system which has 12" rotors & 4-piston calipers with the emergency brake!
Today we got some time to start the front brakes and in just 2 hrs the front brakes were done!!! Yes just 2 hrs....
Old Caliper & Rotor set up taken out:There are many ways/methods to doing this but this is what worked for us and was safe for us.
What we did was:
1) Remove the top nut on the sway bar link.
2) Remove the nut holding the tie-rod to the spindle turned the nut upside down and threaded it back on and hit the nut with a hammer and the ball joint & tie-rod popped right out.
3) Removed the nuts holding the upper & lower a-arms to the spindle, turned those nuts upside down and threaded them back on till they were flush with the top of the threads. Hit the spindle with a hammer until it broke free and was now held on by the nuts. Now take a floor jack and put it right under the lower a-arm joint, jack up until you support with some pressure and remove both upper & lower nuts. Remove brake line from car and slowly lower the jack about 2" OR until the upper joint comes loose. Once it's loose you can push the upper a-arm up and simply pull off the old set up all in one piece.
Old "Stock" vs the New!
Here the New BAER brake set up is installed:
Upper ball-joint Torqued to 65 ft lbs.
Lower Ball-joint Torqued to 80 ft lbs.
Tie-rod ball-joint Torqued to 35 ft lbs.
Banjo fitting Torqued to 20 ft lbs.
Cotter pins were yet to be installed last. (Don't get any easier than that for a complete Bolt-in kit!!)
Finished!! Everything is double and triple checked and cotter pins installed. Repeat process on other side and done!
Stay tuned, The rear system is next!
To see if BAER Brakes will fit your wheels watch this video and it will show you how to print a template to use
Scot W.
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