Not unless the rotor hat/caliper is aluminum.:biggrin: The Wilwoods are much lighter, even though they are the same size. BUT they have FOUR pistons. They DO need a fair amount of modifications to make work. You have to cut off the caliper mounting tabs, on the spindle, with a hack-saw or cut-off wheel, and you need to drill and tap the dust shield mounting holes larger. It's all pretty easy work if you have average or better mechanical skills.
I like the idea of using the S-10 brake upgrade, though. Factory engineering is never bad. Sometimes it is inadaquate, but never bad.:biggrin: (except the dang heater box.............THAT is BAD!!)
I didn't notice a wheel off-set issue with the Wilwood rotors, but I am using 5" Drag-Lites. The only additional parts you will need is a roll of .032" stainless safety wire (jegs has it) and brake hoses and adaptor fittings. The calipers have 1/8" pipe threads for hose connection. I used 45* -3x1/8npt fittings on the caliper. You can have the hose shop install the correct frame mounting end on the other end. You'll just have to bring your stock hoses into them and tell them how long and what you need on each end. If you can't find a local hydraulic shop that makes brake hoses, PM me and I can get you a REAL nice set made here. I think they cost me about $70 or so. They are braided steel, DOT certified, and they pressure test them right in front of me at 3,000 psi. Most hydraulic shops carry the U-Make-it stuff. (not the real name) Call around. There are three shops with-in 5 miles that make brake hoses. Probably ALOT more, though. If you PM me I can pull a front wheel and measure the rotor/wheel flange to frame dimension, if you are really concerned about width.
