Busy off-season

#1
Busy indeed. The asplosion of my engine in New Jersey prompted an engine rebuild, and while the motor was out, I did a few other things.

Strange C-Clip eliminators with the tapered bearing option. Hoping this cuts down on pad knockback and lets me get more than a few events out of a set of rear bearings:



Transmission Temp, oil temp, fuel pressure, and transmission pressure sensors plumbed and wired in:



To give me enough heat dissipating ability to get through more than one event on a set of rotors, new front brakes. Wilwood Superlite 6R with the 13" floating hat directional vane rotors and Hawk HP+ pads:


And the pièce de résistance, a 4.1L stroker with a 4340 forged steel crank, Molnar rods, Carillo forged slugs, a comp roller, and fully ported iron heads and intake, with all the trimmings:



All that's left is the MS3Pro PnP, which should be released any day now.

Sadly, all this work will likely only move me from mid-pack to top third, because I'm sure the competition hasn't stood still over the winter, either. Actually, I know it hasn't. UMI just put a bunch of functional Aero on the Green Machine and they're building a 600+hp 427 for it. It's a tall order going against shop built cars, but I'm going to have a go at it anyway. Doing three Optima events, Midwest Muscle Car Challenge, going to try for at least two of the Optima AutoX-only weekends, plus the SCCA CAM challenge in August, a full local season, and if things go well, I may even try for the SCCA Nats in September.

Stay tuned!
 
#5
Well, I ran into some snags.

The new engine started on the first crank. Once I got the engine warmed up, it had just 5psi warm idle oil pressure. Two oil changes in, and I still had a visible sheen of aluminum in the oil and chunks of steel.

So, I pulled it and tore it down. This is what I found:



My brand new front cover had a cam sensor/pump drive bore alignment problem. It side loaded the pump gears, ground up the boost plate and clearanced the sides of the cavity. The steel chunks came off the pump gears. This apparently is more common than people realize. I had to tear it completely down, have it tanked, and I put it back together with fresh bearings and a junkyark OE cover with the earlbrown mods. If you're putting a new cover on, assemble it on the bench, put the cam sensor in, and make damn sure it turns freely. Then take it back apart and make sure the gears didn't clearance themselves.

If it spins a bit and then hits something, the cover is junk. And there are a lot of junk covers. I went back to the place that sold me mine, and we pulled their ENTIRE stock of brand new Chinese-made covers and checked them. ALL of them were defective.

I also resurfaced my ported/epoxied boost plate instead of messing with that stupid kit:


Now I'm sitting at 20psi warm idle (third graph) and nearly 80 cold:


This was with 15w40 break-in oil. I've dropped to 5w30 for the road break-in. I'm still at 15psi hot idle after 20 miles of tooling around town.

I'm still waiting on the Ms3Pro PnP. I did order a new TurboTweak chip as a backstop. My first event is in less than a month. I'm trying to put miles on the motor, but it won't stop raining here.
 
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#6
Hit 500 miles today and drained the oil.


No visible metal! Pressures are still right where they were on day one. This is a healthy engine.

I also was able to punch it off a stoplight for the first time. The extra displacement is really waking the turbocharger up down low. It's startling.

First event is the Charlotte Match Tour at ZMax Dragway at the end of this month.