Center Caps Melted - Brakes Smoking

[SteveZ82]

Hi all,

I've had my 1st GN (1986) for about 3-4 months now and doing the normal fixes to it. Cracked DS manifold, powermaster failed, oil leaks (small ones) but the car runs and drives great and is properly quick. Well, I had it out on Sunday and was really getting on it, came back to the garage and my front brakes were smoking and the center caps were hanging on for dear life and I just removed them by hand. The plastic pins looked to have just melted away. Yes, the front wheels were that hot. I'm guessing it's going from 80-90mph down to 30-40 constantly....oops! Wondering if anyone else has seen this or should I be looking elsewhere. I do get a pull to the right when braking but figured that was my passenger upper control arm bushing being gone; replacing that soon. I've converted the brakes to an Earl Brown vacuum kit but haven't replaced the brake hoses just yet. I've read some other threads and have seen mixed responses. The car sat most of it's life and has mostly all original parts and definitely the original hoses.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

The stock brakes will get extremely hot if you attempt the kind of driving you're describing. The stock wheels don't have a lot of void to allow air to get through, and the factory backing dust plate also traps heat.

Pull the brakes apart and service them. If you're going to be driving like this often, remove the dust plates. The rotor temps will drop 100 degrees or more.

 

[SteveZ82]

The stock brakes will get extremely hot if you attempt the kind of driving you're describing. The stock wheels don't have a lot of void to allow air to get through, and the factory backing dust plate also traps heat.

Pull the brakes apart and service them. If you're going to be driving like this often, remove the dust plates. The rotor temps will drop 100 degrees or more.

Thanks for the reply. No, I plan on cruising with getting on her every once and a while. I think the beer was talking that night so went overboard. I’ll do what you suggest when I do a full brake service in the next couple of weeks.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Check the mc to booster fit for interference. The mc may not be releasing the pressure...

 

[MaxVO2]

*****Also, if the calipers themselves are old and scored or the fluid hasn't been changed in some time, the pistons in the caliper bores can get very sticky and not release. You can rebuild them, but the calipers and new brake hoses are not that expensive, and also not difficult to replace.

 

[KC87]

If the calipers and rotors weren't shot before they have to be now with that kind of heat. Wonder what it did to the rubber o rings inside. No doubt also that the grease in the wheel bearing took a beating too. Bet the fluid was or close to boiling. Get it fix and this time be kind to her.

 

[SteveZ82]

Check the mc to booster fit for interference. The mc may not be releasing the pressure...

I’m not sure what you mean by this. When I put it in it was aligned to what I thought was good.

 

[SteveZ82]

If the calipers and rotors weren't shot before they have to be now with that kind of heat. Wonder what it did to the rubber o rings inside. No doubt also that the grease in the wheel bearing took a beating too. Bet the fluid was or close to boiling. Get it fix and this time be kind to her.

I took a wheel off and caliper looked good. Rotors and bearings looked good as well. I’m going to have it on the rack on the 3rd of August for a teplace if body bushings so I’ll check everything else again. I don’t think the wheels are dragging because they spin freely by hand when jacked up.

 

[TurboTGuy]

I think the beer was talking that night so went overboard.

Muy No Bueno when driving one of these cars.

 

[KC87]

I took a wheel off and caliper looked good. Rotors and bearings looked good as well. I’m going to have it on the rack on the 3rd of August for a teplace if body bushings so I’ll check everything else again. I don’t think the wheels are dragging because they spin freely by hand when jacked up.

Outside of caliper might look good but inside is what counts. If it sat that long like someone else said rust could of very well set in. Rubber can dry rot and sometimes the bearing will have a say bluish tint from too much heat. Of course check the spindles for same and if all good give them a good replenishment of grease. Rotors could of got out of round also but they're cheap.
If they are the original ones and if not too bad you can get them turned, depending on if you can find someone to do it. They made good ones back then and had mine turned a few years ago and they now have 174k on them. GOD bless good ole Made in U.S.A. products.
P.S. I don't know if there are any rotors made here anymore. The big names may finish them here but use blanks made mostly in china. There's a British company, EBC, iirc, that has a plant in Ohio but still not sure if the blanks are made here. Believe they do those in England and Italy which would be alright but they're pricey.

 

[SteveZ82]

Muy No Bueno when driving one of these cars.

Yeah, well...it was very fun but now I pay the price. Oooh, my head!

 

[SteveZ82]

Outside of caliper might look good but inside is what counts. If it sat that long like someone else said rust could of very well set in. Rubber can dry rot and sometimes the bearing will have a say bluish tint from too much heat. Of course check the spindles for same and if all good give them a good replenishment of grease. Rotors could of got out of round also but they're cheap.
If they are the original ones and if not too bad you can get them turned, depending on if you can find someone to do it. They made good ones back then and had mine turned a few years ago and they now have 174k on them. GOD bless good ole Made in U.S.A. products.
P.S. I don't know if there are any rotors made here anymore. The big names may finish them here but use blanks made mostly in china. There's a British company, EBC, iirc, that has a plant in Ohio but still not sure if the blanks are made here. Believe they do those in England and Italy which would be alright but they're pricey.

Thanks for the advice, I will check everything. I just had it out for a very short ride and those front wheels are hot, like more than normal hot for a 2 mile normal ride. I think it's one of those things. I need to really service the car appropriately and not beat on it until I get it up to par.

 

[KC87]

Yeah, well...it was very fun but now I pay the price. Oooh, my head!

Next time get the good stuff like Schlitz, if not just for the gusto.

 

[TurboTGuy]

Next time get the good stuff like Schlitz, if not just for the gusto.

Give this a listen.......

 

[SteveZ82]

Give this a listen.......

Nah, this one.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I’m not sure what you mean by this. When I put it in it was aligned to what I thought was good.

If the end of the mc bore piston is pushing on the pin in the booster, when you pull the mc up tite, the pin loads the mc piston, and won't allow the pressure to release.
Maybe stay sober, the next time??

 

[SteveZ82]

If the end of the mc bore piston is pushing on the pin in the booster, when you pull the mc up tite, the pin loads the mc piston, and won't allow the pressure to release.
Maybe stay sober, the next time??

I see what you mean. yeah, pretty sure that's not it but thanks. the beer comment was a joke BTW.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I see what you mean. yeah, pretty sure that's not it but thanks. the beer comment was a joke BTW.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"the beer comment was a joke BTW."

So was mine!

 

[KC87]

Give this a listen.......

I'll see your gusto with this.