Cracked block need advise!!! sorry so long

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usetaboost

SAY CAR RAMROD!!
Joined
May 4, 2005
Messages
7,697
Well here are my options as of right now
The parts car I am going to buy is an 81 and has a 3.8. It started right up after sitting eight years and idled smooth, nice and quiet, but had a ses light on and smoked bad WHITE. Pulled the dipstick and checked the antifreeze and both look ok. Is it just moisture from sitting? All that nasty oil burning out? intake gasket? I don't know if its worth using or if I even can use it that's why I am asking. I know there are suttle differences light the front cover and pushrod length, no boss for oil return which is no big deal, I don't even know if it has a knock sensor provision which i'm sure it does. Plan on using my 87 heads, cam, and pushrods.

My second optiion: The local rip off salvage yard has a non running 83 4.1 for 350 bucks. I don't know if that comes with the intake and carb or not but for that price it better. I know these have problems with the lifter valley cracking or something like that. Knowing these guys it will be a "no guarentees and no refund" type of deal. I also know the forged pistons you MUST HAVE are expensive as hell. WOuld like to find a good turbo shortblock for a nice price that I could just throw in and not have to worry about it if possible and put my cam and dual valve springs in.
WHAT SHOULD I DO?
 
I also know the forged pistons you MUST HAVE are expensive as hell
There are pistons available for building up a 4.1, at reasonable prices. The stock turbo engines didn't have forged pistons, and they will make a lot of power, for a lot of years/miles. The non turbo 3.8 won't have good pistons, either, so the piston expense will be about the same, either way. Between the two, the 4.1 will make more power, more torque, and the block is as strong as the early 3.8. Just depends on which of the two engines has the fewest problems, and that is hard to know, without tearing into them.
 
I have turbo pistons and rods from the motor just need two pistons replaced.
I also have the crank which just needs to be turned.
 
These 3.8's are notorious for cracking cylinder heads when they get over heated. They like to crack across the combustion chambers especially between the valves. Probally explains the white smoke. It might take an hour or two but observe the coolant level. If it drops than that would answer why it smokes assuming it is water. Also check the plugs. You should be able to find the bad cylinder that way too.

You may have to do a lot of searching but there is still a good supply of good 109 blocks out there. Do you have any U-Pull-Its in your area? I used to live in Omaha and if you're on the west side of the state than you have at least 5 or 6 of those in that area. You can buy a short block in the $50 range. All you need to do is supply the labor. I'm thinking if you have to have any machine work done than you would be better off trying to get the good "turbo spec" parts. Maybe see if ripoff's will sell you just the crank out of the 4.1? Maybe you'll get lucky and find another 4.1 in the yards for a cheaper price.
 
Why would anyone go to such extra lengths for an extra 30-40hp? My uncles super stock c/x regal with a duttweiler 600hp N/A V6 used a 4.1 block, but when you're squeezing 2 and a half hp per cube with no power adder, you can use that extra displacement. But why would anyone else go through so many headaches on a non competition street car, when you can make a 3.8 run like a scalded beast with a turbo?
 
FOUND TWO 3.8s for FREE

Finally somebody lets me know that building a 4.1 is not worth the money. As far as everything goes I am able to get two 3.8s from my uncle for free. One is a low mileage block that has a spun rod and the other one ran when he took it out but it sat outside. they are older ones, the low mileage is an 82 out of a cutlass and the other one is around that area. I'm going to check out the tech pages at gnttype.org and see what needs to be swapped. If I remember right crank and pistons of course, I should be able to use my rods from the 87 right? Swapping the heads, pushrods because I think the length is different, My NEW CAM FROM FRANK, and hopefully should be ready to go. Any arguements towards doing this?
 
Well went and looked at the blocks today and going to go get them on tuesday. I think one is an 82 and the other might be an 84 I gotta check the numbers. the 84 is all complete and ran but it has sat outside for the past three years. I don't know if it's rusted inside or not but it has the exhaust manifolds crossover pipe and carb all still on it so who knows it might still be alright but I doubt it. If by some crazy miracle it isn't locked up and passes a compression test and the plugs don't have any crap on them I might run the piece of crap just so I can DRIVE it to the body shop this winter and in the meantime find a 109 block to build the hell out of. He is also parting out an 83 limited so if anyone needs interior parts it still looks good and is all there. Seats are brownish color. Header panel and bezels all look good. taillights are still there. Anyone need anything shoot me a pm. The body is pretty much crap but if anyone needs anything ask anyway that part might still be good. THANKS GUYS. STILL WONDERING IF ANYONE HAS ATTEMPTED TO RUN AN ALL N/A ENGINE YET AND LIVED? AS FAR AS ME GOING TO DAVENPORT IT PROBABLY WON'T HAPPEN UNLESS I CAN FIND SOMEONE TO WATCH MY KID FOR A COUPLE DAYS.
 
If it was mine and need to "get by" Run to a pick and pull and find a 87 gbody, pull that 109 long block out. I wouldnt bother with the small rod older version.
Slap the turbo parts on the stock 86.87.88 and dont detonate it.
Same long block except pistons and crank, but it will do for some decent horsepower with a oil drain hole installed.

Thats what i would do, no rebuilding needed.

BW
 
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