- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,750
Suggest care be taken when using a high level of evac vacuum. Too much, and the cyl walls go dry, and the wrist pins are subject to galling.
Crankcase vacuum pump options
- Thread starter SPOT MY 6
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
What is too high? I was thinking 10-12 in would be about right.....Is this too much? Car is 90% street 10% strip....
Street/strip vaccum pumps.
They have different setups from a street/strip to strictly strip pumps. Name of the outfit is gzmotorsports.com...Their pumps actually recirc oil back thru the pump to keep Rulon wipers/scrappers lubricated and to keep pump from going dry, main reason you can run theirs on the street. Also check out Customers cars/rides as to benefits, some gained as much as 50 rwhp. as wll as increased torque....
They have different setups from a street/strip to strictly strip pumps. Name of the outfit is gzmotorsports.com...Their pumps actually recirc oil back thru the pump to keep Rulon wipers/scrappers lubricated and to keep pump from going dry, main reason you can run theirs on the street. Also check out Customers cars/rides as to benefits, some gained as much as 50 rwhp. as wll as increased torque....
I don't think you want to run alot of liquid through the pump. I recommend a catch can.
Since my car is primarily street driven and my reading has led me to believe the electric pumps won't live if you run them all the time... I am thinking about hooking the pump up on a hobbs switch and maybe using some sort of solenoid on the pcv... so that when the hobbs switch turns the vacuum pump on... the solenoid will close the pcv off.... and not let any vacuum through the line going to the throttle body.... should cut way down on oil suckage while under boost....
Now.... to find a good solenoid type valve that has a good enough flow rate for the stock PCV system.
Any thoughts?
Unix Punk
Give GZmotorsports a call. The Street set up they've made is one they designed and tested because alot of requests for one. The majority of evacuation systems are designed for full out drag racing not made for everyday street driving. So they designed a pump/system that pulls vaccum as well as lubricates itself, this design is able to handle low speed,idling and stop and go driving without hurting the pump plus the benefits of a drag racing evac system i.e increase hp, ring seal, decreased blowby. I'm sure if you call them and tell em your plans they will be able to set you up with a system that meets your needs. They have over 20years of experience.
Give GZmotorsports a call. The Street set up they've made is one they designed and tested because alot of requests for one. The majority of evacuation systems are designed for full out drag racing not made for everyday street driving. So they designed a pump/system that pulls vaccum as well as lubricates itself, this design is able to handle low speed,idling and stop and go driving without hurting the pump plus the benefits of a drag racing evac system i.e increase hp, ring seal, decreased blowby. I'm sure if you call them and tell em your plans they will be able to set you up with a system that meets your needs. They have over 20years of experience.
Looks interesting. I will probably run one on on my Stage II. It will be a street/strip car. I am going to have full accessories. But I have the Conley Stage II headers with foward facing turbo, so I don't see why I can't mount it coming off the passenger side cylinder head.
ttypewhite
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2001
- Messages
- 4,156
For guys interested in the LT1 harness, check the New Product Section.
vacuum 6
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2006
- Messages
- 2,441
What about this Blazer406?
I like it but instead of a solenoid what about this? Like you said run a hobb switch to the evac pump and setup that system to one of the valve covers, plug or vent the stock intake PCV hole, and to the other valve cover run a PCV with check valve to the vacuum block as normal. When in boost the evac pump is work/PCV valve is shut off and when not in boost the evac pump is off and the PCV is working as normal. This way the unwanted pressure is removed all the time. Thoughts?
I like it but instead of a solenoid what about this? Like you said run a hobb switch to the evac pump and setup that system to one of the valve covers, plug or vent the stock intake PCV hole, and to the other valve cover run a PCV with check valve to the vacuum block as normal. When in boost the evac pump is work/PCV valve is shut off and when not in boost the evac pump is off and the PCV is working as normal. This way the unwanted pressure is removed all the time. Thoughts?
I'm sold on evac pumps. I run a belt driven Moroso on my car and it has drastically changed how often I have to change my oil. When you run alcohol the oil becomes contaminated very quickly. I used to have to change it after 5 runs. Now, I can go multiple events and still not worry about the oil. I leave the opposite bank breather open so that I get the most ventilation I can. At some point in the future I'm sure I'll play with pulling a small vacuum in the crankcase. For now, I'm just happy about the oil.
if the pcv is working correctly you don't have to put in a solinoic. the PCV is a one way valve.
i have mine setup just the way you described and it works great. the hobbs turns the pump on at 2# of boost, when in vacuum the PCV is sucking on the crank case...
have been running it for 4 years now with no problems.
i have mine setup just the way you described and it works great. the hobbs turns the pump on at 2# of boost, when in vacuum the PCV is sucking on the crank case...
have been running it for 4 years now with no problems.
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
- Messages
- 4,390
Is anybody running a stock like setup anymore??
I can see running pumps if you want to get the most pressure out of your crankcase for racing reasons, but for most of us, the stock engineered setup should be just fine.
Hell, most of the time guys are looking to do this because it's making a mess at WOT, all of which can be cleaned up by running hoses off the breathers into an oil catch can and using the inlet pipe as vacuum under WOT. Yet no vendor makes an inlet pipe with a -6 tube attached to it.
We all remember capping off the stock turbo's compressor bell tube because it sucked IN too much oil. Just slap in between the oil catch can and done.
Nick, I am surprised you aren't doing this, you seemed to side with the Buick engineers in prior posts on this subject. If I wasn't chasing down a trans shifting issue I would have pics on this and some data to back it up, I bet the stock way is what 90% of most of us can roll with.
I can see running pumps if you want to get the most pressure out of your crankcase for racing reasons, but for most of us, the stock engineered setup should be just fine.
Hell, most of the time guys are looking to do this because it's making a mess at WOT, all of which can be cleaned up by running hoses off the breathers into an oil catch can and using the inlet pipe as vacuum under WOT. Yet no vendor makes an inlet pipe with a -6 tube attached to it.
We all remember capping off the stock turbo's compressor bell tube because it sucked IN too much oil. Just slap in between the oil catch can and done. Nick, I am surprised you aren't doing this, you seemed to side with the Buick engineers in prior posts on this subject. If I wasn't chasing down a trans shifting issue I would have pics on this and some data to back it up, I bet the stock way is what 90% of most of us can roll with.
88ZNX's gold limited would oil down the engine compartment and underside on a 50 mile drive before the vacuum pump.... she hardly leaks a drop now. They do work. His is on a hobbs switch...which cuts it on just when the boost comes in...
Make a template out of the plate used & sell it. 
Similar threads
