DeatschWerks DW300 Double Pumper Fail??

#1
I have a double pumper setup with a pair of DW300's that normally at cruise/idle are around 45psi. This morning out for a cruise I noticed the car seemed to have a rough idle and wanted to stumble slightly at lower RPM's. I have an XFI with the eDash and saw that o2 correction was 10%+ and was really struggling to maintain proper AFR. I also have an electronic Autometer fuel PSI gauge and noticed it was around 23-25psi at cruise.

My thought is since the fuel pressure dropped by almost exactly half of normal cruise and idle PSI, one of the two pumps quit. Before I go dropping the tank, anyone have any suggestions where to look first? If it was a fuse/relay/wiring issue wouldn't the whole DP setup just quit all together? Are these pumps prone to failure? DP setup is around 4 years old but doesn't have 1,500 miles on it.

Car has -8 pressure line which flows through an Aeromotive stainless filter then splits at the engine to Champion billet fuel rails. Running VP C12 for fuel. Regulator has a -6 return line to tank and is the location where the fuel PSI gauge is located. Thanks in advance!
 
#2
My old E85 DP setup:
-8 feed. -6 return
8 Gauge Power Feed fused at the alternator 40amp
dual relays, one for each pump and fuse there too.
Both pumps ran full time.
My way I can kill one pump and test the other.

I suggest you bump on the tank with a rubber mallet and see of the second pump comes back on.
If so replace them both and inspect the wiring while you are in there.
 
#3
Ok I’ll give that a shot. Forgot to mention I’m using the Racetronix Hotwire kit here. Any chance it can be the relay? I think no since there is only one with this harness and one pump is still running.

I’m going to take the fuel filter apart just for the hell of it also, make sure nothing is plugged up.
 
#4
Ok I’ll give that a shot. Forgot to mention I’m using the Racetronix Hotwire kit here. Any chance it can be the relay? I think no since there is only one with this harness and one pump is still running.

I’m going to take the fuel filter apart just for the hell of it also, make sure nothing is plugged up.
its not the relay...
 

Chuck Leeper

Waay too old!
Staff member
#6
The RT duals I had, had a relay for each pump, 2x340's.
What's the amp draw, running 2- 300's at the same time? Single relay at max? Relays should be run at not more than 80% of rating.
Check the at tank voltage.
Check the ground side, too.
 

BEATAV8

The Engine Whisperer
#7
Probably failed one of the hoses or O-rings inside the tank. Or the filter is plugged.
A single pump is more then plenty to maintain full fuel pressure at idle and cruise. So there must be a big leak or a big restriction.
 
#8
Thanks everyone for the info, much appreciated. This morning I put the car on the lift and before dropping the tank, I decided to pull apart the fuel filter. Take a look at the pictures attached! The 40 micron stainless filter was full of what appears to be the red clay/mud we have here in the south. But here is what makes this interesting..... I have never gotten pump gas from a station with this car. Ever.

I recently moved here (Charlotte, NC) from PA. My car was a complete build from the ground up when I was in PA between 2013-2015. I moved south in 2016 but ever since the day the build was completed, I've used VP C12 out of a drum. I'm on my third drum of fuel over the last three years as I don't get to drive the car much. Each drum I've unsealed myself personally and purchased them direct from VP, not a dealer. The drum is stored in my garage and kept dry etc....

After seeing the filter, I've gone and dropped the tank and removed the double pumper from the tank. the whole pump setup was stained orange from the dirt and the pickups on the bottom of each pump were all dirty. The gas looks brown cloudy in the tank. The C12 is a light green tint out of the drum. Trying to determine whether or not to clean the tank out or just get a new one. My concern is I'll never get all the silt out of the bottom regardless of how much I clean it. What's your opinion??
 

Attachments

#9
Steve was right... clogged filter. Now you need a locking gas cap... and a close eye on people around the car.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

John Larkin

Sublime Master of Turbology
#10
Wow, do you store your car indoors? That is incredible. Thank goodness the filter caught all that.

You can clean out the tank. Pour all the gas out and let it air dry. Then wash it out with water and blow dry with compressed air. Follow up with a solvent flush/rinse. Also need to setup the pumps in a bucket of solvent and pump them clean as well. Mineral spirits is a good choice, less fumes than gasoline.
 
#11
Definitely going to get a locking gas cap. Car has been stored inside at least the last 8yrs I’ve owned it. I’m going agitate and then pump out a gallon of the fuel from the large drum i have into a clear plastic bucket and the let it sit overnight to see if there is any sediment coming from the fuel in the large drum.

I took everything apart today with the pumps and cleaned with carb cleaner and reassembled and then verified they both worked. I will put in a bucket and run with solvent cleaner, good idea.
 

BEATAV8

The Engine Whisperer
#12
Pull the injectors too. Use a magnifying glass to inspect the injector baskets.

It could be dirt/clay but I kinda suspect it could be rust too. Water might have gotten into the tank.
 
#17
After completely draining the tank, its difficult to see if there is rust inside due to the plastic baffling inside. As far as sabotage, I'm not ruiling it out however I don't drive the car much at all and when I do, it's always to a car cruise or show and it's virtually never out of my sight.

I'm wondering if there was corrosion existing in the tank and if the chemicals in the leaded race fuel essentially loosened up all the rust and has it all suspended in the fuel? I could be out in left field with that, just trying to think about all possibilities. I am likely going to be purchasing a new tank because I can't get all the dirt and rust out and I'm concerned with what I can't see. Any suggestions for brand of replacement tank??
 
#18
After completely draining the tank, its difficult to see if there is rust inside due to the plastic baffling inside. As far as sabotage, I'm not ruiling it out however I don't drive the car much at all and when I do, it's always to a car cruise or show and it's virtually never out of my sight.

I'm wondering if there was corrosion existing in the tank and if the chemicals in the leaded race fuel essentially loosened up all the rust and has it all suspended in the fuel? I could be out in left field with that, just trying to think about all possibilities. I am likely going to be purchasing a new tank because I can't get all the dirt and rust out and I'm concerned with what I can't see. Any suggestions for brand of replacement tank??
I just bought the spectra from rock auto. I am installing it now and have been wrestling with these damn straps that hold it in. Tank appears to be very good quality, but be sure to wear gloves as I have cut my hands on the edges of the tank


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#19
I have struggled with spectras tank as well. I get the Dorman from Summit Racing now. I dont have pick up issue because you shouldn't be racing on a 1/4 tank or less.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk