You can type here any text you want

do we need adjustable fuel pressure regulators?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

DR BOOST

Technical advisor
Joined
Aug 2, 2001
Messages
2,662
i remember the good ol days of adjusting a/f ratios by raising and lowering fuel pressures but it seems these days we adjust them in the computers. For the past 7 years my fuel pressure has stayed a constant 42 (line off).

sooo...why do i keep buying adjustable ones?
 
Cuz they look kewl!:biggrin: If I remember correctly, the OE regulator is factory set to a lower pressure than we typically run on our modified cars. I know about the TTA regulator running at a higher pressure; I have one of them but it's in my Buick junk bin in the garage (along with the original one from my car). I'd rather have one I can adjust myself. It is a necessity for getting some cars tuned just right--42-43 psi is merely a recommended starting point. My $.02
 
Adjustable. rebuildability (needs to be a real word) is a plus as well.
 
My fuel pressure was set at 40psi on idle and I could smell gas bad in the car, it was giving me a head ache. I turned it down to 36psi... Problem solved :biggrin:
 
My fuel pressure was set at 40psi on idle and I could smell gas bad in the car, it was giving me a head ache. I turned it down to 36psi... Problem solved :biggrin:

This means your chip was wrong for your injectors, or your computer was tuned wrong.

Technically here is the deal. A chip maker asks you for what size injectors.. lets say you tell him they are 75 lb injectors. He burns the chip assumming the injectors flow 75 lbs per hour at 43 PSI fuel. Now what happens is your injectors actually flowed 72 lbs per hour. So what happens is the the car is now off and leaner... so what you do is increase fuel pressure a few lbs and balance it out. If you look at the BL on your scanmaster it will let you know if your leaner or richer than you need to be at idle/cruising. Adjust your fuel pressure to balance things out.

With an aftermarket computer, you look at the wide band and adjust accordingly. So where your fuel pressure or TPS is at doent matter.
 
kirbans 2 cents worth

A little history on adjustable fuel regulators. First comments above are dead on especially one about being able to adjust it kind of like having an adjustable wastegate actuator.

I have always been told the full picture would be to have volume and pressure. To achieve that you need a good pump/sock and consistant volts delivered to the pump and adjustable regulator at the front.

Don't overlook the fuel filter one area of neglect on late model cars as every used car I have bought I have to change. The mechanic can tell if it has ever been replaced.

The most popular adjustable fuel regulator is one we have sold for many years. The heart of it is the diapham is made from a material that holds up under any fuel. All billet construction. Looks 100% identical to the factory one on the outside. I am sure it is sold by other sources as well.

We also had them made for 5.0 Mustangs starting way back in 1991 and we also had made 4 different versions for the Porsche market.

They also look pretty if you keep it polished.

The first two old tricks when the cars were new they used to do with the stock one is to crush the top. That gave no adjustment after you crushed it. The next design back when the cars were fairly new was an insert was put in the vacuum port on the top that you screwed down or up. That was not very effective as it would fail to hold over a period of time.

The next version that was popular and worked great was sources like us would buy the stock ones and cut off the tops and a new billet top was installed.

That is about the extent of my knowledge on the fuel regulators. I can tell you this, the reason you see an all billet today is because we made them first for the 5.0 Mustangs and sold thousands of them over the years to Mustang companies.

That paved the way to tool up to make an all new one for Turbo Regals. While the Porsche market is a lot smaller, we can charge more for them as we sell to tuners that use it with the rest of whatever upgrades they are doing. Mot regulators are Bosch units reason it crosses over basically the same principle no matter what performance car it is on. Owners want to achieve the same results - more power to the street.

kirbanpeformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

not a mechanic, know a little about the above subject.
 
If you look at the BL on your scanmaster it will let you know if your leaner or richer than you need to be at idle/cruising. Adjust your fuel pressure to balance things out.

What #'s should it ideally run and under what conditions (hot or cold, after driving a while etc.?) should you adjust/dial in the pressure?
 
What #'s should it ideally run and under what conditions (hot or cold, after driving a while etc.?) should you adjust/dial in the pressure?

128 +-6

If all the numbers while driving are higher, add fuel pressure. If all the numbers are lower.. reduce pressure.

HTH
 
With an aftermarket computer(FAST,BS3,etc) not needed.

Stock computer car, sure to dial in the long term fueling(BL). Unless you can make yourr own chips. :wink:

What about if you are running the TurboTweak chip that uses a wide band to correct the AFR? Still needed? Just curious.
 
What about if you are running the TurboTweak chip that uses a wide band to correct the AFR? Still needed? Just curious.


Yes if its always having to correct positive or negative. The idea is to center the fueling where no correction is needed.

Think of it like a car that you let go of the steering wheel and it pulls to the right or left.. the FPR straightens out the pull.


With an aftermarket computer you set the center by adjusting the VE table. On a stock computer.. you cant unless you can burn your own chips. In this case the aftermarket ECU lets you build a road for your car. :D
 
Back
Top