Doesn't take much force to distort a 109

Mike T

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2013
With minimal force from a clamp I was able to move the rails a couple of thousandths very easily. it leaves me to wonder how much the motor mount area moves on a high horsepower car.
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lol, they move around a ton and most people look at me like Im nuts when I tell them I actually BENT a Stage 2 on-center block. Cam bore was so distorted we had to beat the cam out of the block. Spun the cam to check it for straightness thinking it was bent and it was dead on, the block was bent. No cracks or issues with the block, and motor was just apart for a freshen. I hard blocked it after that and it is still running today.
 
i just unbolted mine after banging on it for 8 years had 4 broken pan rail bolts on the girdle
 
All the way down at the oil pan location? Where there's no support? It better move there. That's not a structurally significant part of the block, and if the iron wasn't ductile enough to flex in that location, then the block would just shatter anyway.

A more useful test would be to install the mains and heads, bolt it to a stand by the motor mounts, put a bellhousing on the thing, and then twist it by the bellhousing and check the cam and crank bores for misalignment and distortion.
 
If the motor mount bolt bosses were at the very edge of the pan rail, it would flex a lot... At the bottom of the pan rail.


When you think about it, you really didn't flex them that much. 2 thin pieces of unsupported and unloaded iron moved .002". That's only a thou of deflection over a few inches length.
(for those that don't know, .002" is the thickness of forearm hair)



What's amazing is my personal 4.1 has ,0009" main bearing clearances. That's 9/10,000th over a foot in length. The block should deflect more than that just from heat.


But it still spins like butter.
 
I intentionally set up for the best visual perspective. I did it that way so that you don't have to be a "expert" to see that these blocks do move.

Yes I knowingly grabbed the weakest part of the block to demonstrate. Truth is though the rest of the block isn't really that much thicker and this area moved like nothing.
 
Pretty cool.

Although, the mechanical advantage with a screw is pretty amazing in itself.
 
Pretty cool.

Although, the mechanical advantage with a screw is pretty amazing in itself.


Yes you have an excellent point. I actually started out squeezing the block together with my bare hands and could not determine if the dial movement was due to the block collapsing a bit or me shaking the entire setup.

The clamp gave good repeatable results.
 
Set up one of these where it will just stay inside a bore, then grab the corners of the block & flex it with your hands/arms.

Don't know about the Buick V-6, but other blocks will often flex enough that the gauge falls out.

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must be a few supermen in here to flex a block with bare hands. Come on :rolleyes: Now put 7/800 rwhp to it an yes there is flexing .
 
must be a few supermen in here to flex a block with bare hands. Come on :rolleyes: Now put 7/800 rwhp to it an yes there is flexing .


Me Mongo, flex blocks all day long, nothing else to do...........:LOL:
 
The block is moving all over the place even at 500hp. Junk wasn’t designed to be over 400hp.


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The goal wasn't to obtain "strongman" status on the board. I will say that the average person should be able to exert the same force that the clamp is applying now.
 
I don't think it's outside of the realm of possibilities that the center caps are losing their interference fit under power.
 
The goal wasn't to obtain "strongman" status on the board. I will say that the average person should be able to exert the same force that the clamp is applying now.

That's the point. It doesn't require "strongman" status.
 
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