Engine condition

TireFryer

The New Kid
Joined
Dec 21, 2001
I pulled my driver side head off tonight. This is what I see. Normal amounts of carbon, the factory crosshatching is still there with no vertical scoring. There is also no lip at the top of the cylinders that my finger can feel. What’s a good way to get all the crap off of the deck of the block? Those green abrasive pads? Razor blade? Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • 62982444-2276-41B0-B4F6-2ADE9A9B5231.jpeg
    62982444-2276-41B0-B4F6-2ADE9A9B5231.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 240
Just use a new razor blade to scrape off the graphite head gasket material. Some carb cleaner and scotchbrite might be necessary. The small amount of rust doesn't look too alarming.

Good Luck

Neal
 
I normally use WD-40 to remove the carbon. Spray a good amount in there and let it sit overnight. If it’s bad maybe let it sit in there a little longer. Carbon will come off pretty easy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I normally use WD-40 to remove the carbon. Spray a good amount in there and let it sit overnight. If it’s bad maybe let it sit in there a little longer. Carbon will come off pretty easy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I dont't have to worry about it seeping past the rings into the sump? I'm trying to not have tot take the bottom end apart
 
DO NOT use Scotchbrite on that deck surface. All you do is aerosol thousands of small pieces of abrasive into your engine. And for dog's sake, do not use any powered spinny things like rol-lock disks to make it ''look flat''.

That graphite comes off easily with a razor blade or a putty knife. (and will leave small bits in the crappy factory machined finish for a smoother deck.
 
DO NOT use Scotchbrite on that deck surface. All you do is aerosol thousands of small pieces of abrasive into your engine. And for dog's sake, do not use any powered spinny things like rol-lock disks to make it ''look flat''.

That graphite comes off easily with a razor blade or a putty knife. (and will leave small bits in the crappy factory machined finish for a smoother deck.
Agree with you 100% and thank you for confirming this based on your extensive experience. no abrasive pads will be used and I will take my time with fresh, clean razor blade, lots of rags to clean up and will make sure to plug all the oil, water passages along with bolt recesses.
Thanks to all for their recommendations and advice.
 
DO NOT use Scotchbrite on that deck surface. All you do is aerosol thousands of small pieces of abrasive into your engine. And for dog's sake, do not use any powered spinny things like rol-lock disks to make it ''look flat''.

That graphite comes off easily with a razor blade or a putty knife. (and will leave small bits in the crappy factory machined finish for a smoother deck.

Earl,

No one was suggesting to polish the deck surface to a mirror finish with a Scotchbrite pad. The only reason it was mentioned was if there was any rust or gasket remnants that refuse to come off. A small piece of maroon Scothcbrite and some carb cleaner works wonders.

Neal
 
Once the cam bearings are installed (AKA: post final cleaning), an abrasive pad doesn't need to be in the same room as the engine.
 
The car has been sitting in the garage for the past month with the intake off. The car ran good before disassembly.
If it ran good, why did you disassemble it? I guess I would be putting it back together. I like to use electronics cleaner spray on the deck and head surface. Depending on the gasket you might want to use some copper spray if it is a copper one. I do the stock graphite type just dry. Be sure to use some sealer on the head bolt or studs on the ones that go into the water jacket. Then when you get done be sure to change the oil and filter.
 
Engine is still in the car and was running well. Son and I decided to get into the top end to refresh it since we had Champion ported iron heads and champion intake sitting on the shelf along with Steve M 62mm TB/port matched plenum and injectors. All suggestions are appreciated, and as mentioned above, we don't plan on using an abrasive pads since looks like we'll be able to remove all the old gasket materials from deck with cleaner and razor (all holes are being plugged to minimize chance of debris getting into coolant/oil channels or head bolt cavities). Taking our time to do this properly without rushing.
While doing this, we used a bore scope to check on the timing chain and discovered that it's still original and sloppy, so we just added refreshing the timing chain and cam button onto our to-do list. Will probably send out the timing cover/oil pump and cam sensor to Steve V. for R&R work prior to assembly.
 
Top