I'm getting a rebuild soon on my 86. This is a street car. The fastest I could ever see wanting to go is 12's. Beyond a bone stock rebuild what upgrades should a person on a budget consider? Please rank them in order of importance (#1 balance, #2 forged pistons, #3 billet caps.. for example). What's necessary and what's not? Thanks
Engine rebuild - Where to upgrade?
- Thread starter Lhorn
- Start date
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12's can be had with a stock short block so my recommendations are more for durability and upgrades...
1. Cam, Comp 206 with GM or Comp lifters if stock cam is worn...
2. Double roller timing chain set, eliminates plastic stocker and tensioner...
3. Neoprene front and rear crank seals, replace that damn old-school rope...
4. Forged TRW's, only if block requires overbore...
5. Balancing, not required for 12's but always worthwhile...
Add a nice tight rebuild and Turn It Up!
Good Luck, Jim
1. Cam, Comp 206 with GM or Comp lifters if stock cam is worn...
2. Double roller timing chain set, eliminates plastic stocker and tensioner...
3. Neoprene front and rear crank seals, replace that damn old-school rope...
4. Forged TRW's, only if block requires overbore...
5. Balancing, not required for 12's but always worthwhile...
Add a nice tight rebuild and Turn It Up!
Good Luck, Jim
Don't know where you're located but I would try to get in touch with Nick Micale www.arizonagn.com as I am quite sure he has a "street build" short block sitting on the shelf right now. Just add some heads and go.
QuickWrench
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Unless you're solidly in the 10's...
If the stock short-block components are in good shape, and clearances are within spec, LEAVE IT ALONE. the simple fact that the engine has already lasted for 17 years should tell you something.
Go with the basics. They're good to low 11's:
Short Block:
1. Quality rod/main/cam bearing set (i.e. Clevite)
2. Stock crank/rods/rod bolts/pistons
3. Quality file-to-fit rings (i.e. SpeedPro)
4. Neoprene rear main, or the stock-style if you're patient w/ the installation.
5. If you're using the stock cam (which, in an 12 second car, you should be), go with the $16 DynaGear (AutoZone) timing chain. I've used several...they're more than adequate, unless you're degreeing an aftermarket camshaft.
6. If you're up for align-honing the block, go w/ ARP main studs.
7. Build to the stock Buick torque specs and clearances!
Long Block:
1. ARP head studs, using the 3-step torquing method, and your choice of thread sealer...or new OE Buick head bolts.
2. Stock cam? Comp 979 valve springs, with stock valve equipment.
3. Stock Buick gaskets all around.
It can't be stressed enough...nothing fancy is needed. Just attention to detail, stock clearances and torque specs, and you're in for years of enjoyment...if your wastegate rod doesn't get too short.
Good luck.
If the stock short-block components are in good shape, and clearances are within spec, LEAVE IT ALONE. the simple fact that the engine has already lasted for 17 years should tell you something.
Go with the basics. They're good to low 11's:
Short Block:
1. Quality rod/main/cam bearing set (i.e. Clevite)
2. Stock crank/rods/rod bolts/pistons
3. Quality file-to-fit rings (i.e. SpeedPro)
4. Neoprene rear main, or the stock-style if you're patient w/ the installation.
5. If you're using the stock cam (which, in an 12 second car, you should be), go with the $16 DynaGear (AutoZone) timing chain. I've used several...they're more than adequate, unless you're degreeing an aftermarket camshaft.
6. If you're up for align-honing the block, go w/ ARP main studs.
7. Build to the stock Buick torque specs and clearances!
Long Block:
1. ARP head studs, using the 3-step torquing method, and your choice of thread sealer...or new OE Buick head bolts.
2. Stock cam? Comp 979 valve springs, with stock valve equipment.
3. Stock Buick gaskets all around.
It can't be stressed enough...nothing fancy is needed. Just attention to detail, stock clearances and torque specs, and you're in for years of enjoyment...if your wastegate rod doesn't get too short.
Good luck.
