ET by Dollars

SpeedRacerX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
I thought this could be an interesting discussion. I know we have ET recipes for part combos.

Could you ET racers chime in for us guys who have vision and goals and give us a rough idea on dollar targets by ET?

For example:

12's: $3,000
11's: $5,000
10's: $7,000
9's: $8,000
8's: $10,000
7's: $15,000 + a kidney

Another way to ask is how much might one typically invest to go 10s or 9s or 8s? Barring anything exotic, i.e. LS swap, coyote swap. Lol.

Another question: at what target ET do the dollars jump big time?

Looking forward to some informative, cool and fun responses.



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well to do a decent rebuild of a 109 block you are looking at any where from 5500-10k depending on what parts you use . just parts alone for a forged motor build are 3500-4500. a built motor as long as u have all the supporting mods should have you in the 9s pretty easily. I traded a clean title GN for my long block stage motor if that gives you some idea of prices
 
It's exponential. 12's for $1000, then 11's for $5000, 10's for $5000-30,000. 9's, at least 20k to start. My heads alone I'm guessing are 4k. 2-3k for a turbo, 1k for fuel system, 1k for headers...it goes quick...
 
I bet if you started off with a solid mid/high 11 sec car it would be more like $10,000 for every half second and then maybe $10,000 for every quarter sec at a certain point.

11.50+: start
10.99: $10,000
10.49: $10,000 more
9.99: $10,000 more
9.49: $10,000 more
9.24: $10,000 more
8.99: $10,000 more

Of course, you could save money by making good decisions up front for a purpose built car, etc. But if you built a car up progressively and had to keep upgrading as you went I bet it would be something along these lines..... and this is assuming you had to pay someone to do a lot/some of the work too for certain upgrades/installs.
 
10.99 $5000
10.49 $8500
9.99 $12,000
9.49 $20,000
8.99 $35,000

9.49 or better is a TA block for sure. And yes TurboTNZ06 is right it becomes exponential.
 
Is this what you mean?

It would be cheaper if I did it twice. I think the second time I could eliminate all the unnecessary steps and get strait to the point, no nonsense, and build an 8 second car for way less than half of what I have spent on mine up until now.

Mechanical it would pretty much end up being exactly as it is. But I would eliminate all my unnecessary progressive steps, parts, and bling bullshit, skip the polishing, powder coating, upholstery, unnecessary gauges, stainless exhaust, paint job, HID and LED lighting......so on and so on. I wouldn't even start with an 86-87 TR. I would use beat-up hot-air or plain Regal roller.

But to keep it fair, It would still have all the characteristics needed to be a "street car".

I think maybe all this can be done for the low, low price of about $55,000. This includes the cost of the actual vehicle.

I wouldn't begin to estimate the cost in incremental steps to get to the 8's. Because if you plan to build it once, and you go stage motor, TH 400, roll cage, XFI, These will be the big items that would have taken you over that next big cost threshold. I don't think it will matter much if it goes low 10's or mid 8's after that.
 
buying all the parts,rebuying parts that break,shipping back and forth,installing yourself vs paid labor,overall cost to keep the et going which is much higher for 10s and faster.11 sec ets you should get plenty of time on the combo with under 10gs invested,unless you have some bad luck after that open up that wallet for triple+ that number and usage of time is reduced as matinence shoots up. the whole car from the front to back has to be looked at for a 8/9 sec build it will be a labor of love at that point.
 
Most everyone will blow something up at least once before getting into the solid 10's. Or they will have their motor and trans built before then for sure. Then they will do it again after pushing their combo well into the 9's.

If you think you may be ultimately going this far, (not everyone wants this though) this is why I say skip this stuff. Unfortunately it's a learning process. Most may also break a 9 second combo from day one if they didn't acquire the experience of the 12's, 11's, and 10's. Then there is the "need" to drive it in between upgrades. No one wants to park it for 3 years while they build an 1000 horsepower combo. But this may be the cheaper way to do it.

Many will build a 200 two or three times. Or upgrade converters as their turbo sizes increase.
Many will continue to replace and upgrade fuel systems, injectors, pumps and lines.
Many will break a rear end.
Many will upgrade the stock computer and then go aftermarket engine management
So on and so on...........

This is where the money goes for sure. Most are doing what I'm doing with less performance costs IN PLACE. However, It may seem strange to most, but I bet I have less in TOTAL performance costs and do-overs than many making the same power as I. I built my combo after my car went 11.50's. I skipped a whole bunch of stuff that others go through. And it's obviously over-kill. So I didn't have to wick it up to the moon to run a decent number. I haven't upgraded anything major for about 12 years and thank God I haven't broke anything yet. But I'm due, it has to happen sooner or later. The one exception was the transmission. I built two 200's and I wish I had gone to the 400 from day one.

Oh boy. There are so many angles on building these things. It's very difficult to apply a "Dollar to ET" guideline that generally works for us all.
 
The cost will vary greatly from person to person. For those who pay to have everything done will be loads more $ than someone who does their own wrench turning.
I went 13.20's free
12.9 for $150(Reds 93 chip and $100 converter)
12.3 + $300 for BFG Drag Radials
11.2 + $6,000 PTS 2004R, 9/11 converter, built engine myself, used turbo/inj, used SLIC, used ATR bar
Only had 2 turbos on it/stock and TE61....3 fuel pumps/stock, Typhoon, GSS340....stock injectors and 55#
20psi on 93 pump and 2 cans of VP Octanium on 11.25 pass. I am at the limit of the pump without adding a Boost a Pump
I do have Moser axles(not installed) so I can launch on boost on slicks and I think I can get a 10.99 with a better 60ft than 1.65
 
Is this what you mean?

It would be cheaper if I did it twice. I think the second time I could eliminate all the unnecessary steps and get strait to the point, no nonsense, and build an 8 second car for way less than half of what I have spent on mine up until now.

Mechanical it would pretty much end up being exactly as it is. But I would eliminate all my unnecessary progressive steps, parts, and bling bullshit, skip the polishing, powder coating, upholstery, unnecessary gauges, stainless exhaust, paint job, HID and LED lighting......so on and so on. I wouldn't even start with an 86-87 TR. I would use beat-up hot-air or plain Regal roller.

But to keep it fair, It would still have all the characteristics needed to be a "street car".

I think maybe all this can be done for the low, low price of about $55,000. This includes the cost of the actual vehicle.

I wouldn't begin to estimate the cost in incremental steps to get to the 8's. Because if you plan to build it once, and you go stage motor, TH 400, roll cage, XFI, These will be the big items that would have taken you over that next big cost threshold. I don't think it will matter much if it goes low 10's or mid 8's after that.

These words are so true! Anybody reading this thread memorize this particular post/reply. This is great advice/opinion.
 
Are you looking for just "fast" or "fast and pretty?" Because pretty is where you're gonna spend a shit load of money unless you're doing it yourself.

Because if you want "NY Twin Turbo" then just turn your pockets inside out.
 
Are you looking for just "fast" or "fast and pretty?" Because pretty is where you're gonna spend a shit load of money unless you're doing it yourself.

Because if you want "NY Twin Turbo" then just turn your pockets inside out.
Thank you...........I think. :unsure::)
 
I agree with NY Twin Turbo and Chris Kirk. If everyone did it twice it would be cheaper, but has anyone paid attention to a 7, 8 or 9 second race motor. They are definitely pieces of art, we have taken the "fast with class" to another level. Do not get me wrong here but my first 7 second twin turbo motor back in 98 looked like a crude mechanical hack job. I would consider myself the exception because I had less than 15000 in the whole project including a trailer. This was when I was getting complete Goody Dash, ASA , Busch motors for 2 grand with the 390 carbs that everyone wanted. My roller that I purchased was a completely tubbed and gutted out true WE4 car, looked just like a GN to me. Here is a lot of the differences of going fast in the past compared to now. My gutted roller with full sportsman style 12 point roll cage with big tires and 9" was 5K. I didn't have tubular a arms. Every body panel on the car was as it came from the factory with its inner support removed. A cage certified to run 7.50s would cost about 7 -8 grand now? You didn't need a rollerized 2.10 turbo 400 that cost 6000. I paid 1200 for standard geared turbo 400 with a standard heavy duty sprag including a shiny new JW bell housing and 4.56 gears. I swear I think that 400 came out of a '68 Caddy. FAST XFI 2.05 did not exist. How do you guys think that we went that fast? Light weight cars of course but electronically and mechanically. My first motor had a stage 2 Edelbrock tunnel ram with NOS and mechanical fuel injection and a MSD distributor. Stage 2 heads with Jesel Rockers stamped 1991 on them. I still have it all to this day. You only had 1 option of cylinder heads with the exception of Kenne Bell who ran a production style head in the 7's. Does anyone want to take a guess of how many near $10,000 sets of stage 2 heads there are out there floating around on possibly some of our cars.? I have seen one pair of Reher Morrison prepped heads and valve covers that approached that number. NASCAR and Indy dumped a ton of money in R&D , stage 2 heads are more than capable to get the job done. No coil on / near plug systems. My first digital fuel system was the FAST SEFI8LO and 120lbs injectors upgraded to 160lbs once I got my first carb converted intake. 160lb injectors and two SX performance fuel pumps and a red plastic 15 gallon fuel cell filled with purple leaded cam 2 gas was all it took to get into the 7's .It's hard to believe that a big Weldon 2345 can barely feed a set of Moran 550lbs on a car running exotic blended fuels of E85/98, M1 or oxygenated Q/C 16. A 15" Weld Drag lite was the ticket with any 185/70/15 PepBoy tire special. The Weld rim that I want now is around $600 ea with no tire. My stage 2 engine rebuilds were done by your local dirt track engine rebuilders. An average rebuild and assembly was $1000 max with them supplying hard parts. On one, a new 3.625 BMS crank was needed and they charged me 400 extra. I had to work extra overtime on a $10 an hour job to pay that off, whew! I contacted a not so well known engine builder and he told me to send him the parts that I had and $7500 to get started. Most people on this board now that wants to build a 10 second street car wouldn't touch a BMS crank because they would be scared that it would break, 7 second power is greater than 10 second power but that is the mindset that we are in now. But in 99 you had BMS, Hank the Crank, Scat, LA Billet, King, Moldex , and Winberg. Many finishing the BMS forging or making their own billet piece. I have seen it on nearly a 1:1 ratio of windowed stage 2 blocks with a few broken cranks ( many of the journals had too much meat taken off during rebuilds) but more from broken rods. The old 6.5 Carrillo was present in about 98% of them. The rod technology is up there with current crank technology now. Maybe the days of windowed blocks are done and over. One trend that is disappearing on the TR's of old is big wings and big tires. A mini tub and some 275 pro's can get it done with supporting suspension mods.

To this day I scratch my head when I read some signatures of people combos and see all of the latest and greatest gadgets to make them go fast, and keep them in a comfort zone. It's too expensive to tear rare parts up. I bet if I post a virgin stage 2 4.1 on center block for 3 grand now it will sell before the end of the day. But would the person that buys it immediately max out the bore and build it with the intention to have a 7 or 8 second race car. I seriously doubt it. We are overall safer to run at speeds now. To run 10's safely on a track you must have driveshaft loop, fire jacket and so forth. The same applies to 9,8 and 7 second cars.
I agree 100% with the current trend being exponential as you step into each speed zone. Sorry if the rant was long and veered off topic but I did want to get one point across that the same hard parts that were around in the 90's to get you to the 7's is still around in 2018 that can get you in the 10's, 9's, 8's or 7's. Maybe it's a lost technological art like the Great pyramids.
 
7 second power on a $400 dollar budget.
 

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10 second power on a 109. I just kept dumping more fuel in the car and adding boost and playing with timing. Seemed simple back in the day with a TE 63 and two delta gates. Parts that people have never seen before. I wish that I had more show and tell time but I got go do some work.
 

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Now where are my South Side Machine bars that went in the 8's? They are around here somewhere.......Super duper simple....proven!
 
I agree with NY Twin Turbo and Chris Kirk. If everyone did it twice it would be cheaper, but has anyone paid attention to a 7, 8 or 9 second race motor. They are definitely pieces of art, we have taken the "fast with class" to another level. Do not get me wrong here but my first 7 second twin turbo motor back in 98 looked like a crude mechanical hack job. I would consider myself the exception because I had less than 15000 in the whole project including a trailer. This was when I was getting complete Goody Dash, ASA , Busch motors for 2 grand with the 390 carbs that everyone wanted. My roller that I purchased was a completely tubbed and gutted out true WE4 car, looked just like a GN to me. Here is a lot of the differences of going fast in the past compared to now. My gutted roller with full sportsman style 12 point roll cage with big tires and 9" was 5K. I didn't have tubular a arms. Every body panel on the car was as it came from the factory with its inner support removed. A cage certified to run 7.50s would cost about 7 -8 grand now? You didn't need a rollerized 2.10 turbo 400 that cost 6000. I paid 1200 for standard geared turbo 400 with a standard heavy duty sprag including a shiny new JW bell housing and 4.56 gears. I swear I think that 400 came out of a '68 Caddy. FAST XFI 2.05 did not exist. How do you guys think that we went that fast? Light weight cars of course but electronically and mechanically. My first motor had a stage 2 Edelbrock tunnel ram with NOS and mechanical fuel injection and a MSD distributor. Stage 2 heads with Jesel Rockers stamped 1991 on them. I still have it all to this day. You only had 1 option of cylinder heads with the exception of Kenne Bell who ran a production style head in the 7's. Does anyone want to take a guess of how many near $10,000 sets of stage 2 heads there are out there floating around on possibly some of our cars.? I have seen one pair of Reher Morrison prepped heads and valve covers that approached that number. NASCAR and Indy dumped a ton of money in R&D , stage 2 heads are more than capable to get the job done. No coil on / near plug systems. My first digital fuel system was the FAST SEFI8LO and 120lbs injectors upgraded to 160lbs once I got my first carb converted intake. 160lb injectors and two SX performance fuel pumps and a red plastic 15 gallon fuel cell filled with purple leaded cam 2 gas was all it took to get into the 7's .It's hard to believe that a big Weldon 2345 can barely feed a set of Moran 550lbs on a car running exotic blended fuels of E85/98, M1 or oxygenated Q/C 16. A 15" Weld Drag lite was the ticket with any 185/70/15 PepBoy tire special. The Weld rim that I want now is around $600 ea with no tire. My stage 2 engine rebuilds were done by your local dirt track engine rebuilders. An average rebuild and assembly was $1000 max with them supplying hard parts. On one, a new 3.625 BMS crank was needed and they charged me 400 extra. I had to work extra overtime on a $10 an hour job to pay that off, whew! I contacted a not so well known engine builder and he told me to send him the parts that I had and $7500 to get started. Most people on this board now that wants to build a 10 second street car wouldn't touch a BMS crank because they would be scared that it would break, 7 second power is greater than 10 second power but that is the mindset that we are in now. But in 99 you had BMS, Hank the Crank, Scat, LA Billet, King, Moldex , and Winberg. Many finishing the BMS forging or making their own billet piece. I have seen it on nearly a 1:1 ratio of windowed stage 2 blocks with a few broken cranks ( many of the journals had too much meat taken off during rebuilds) but more from broken rods. The old 6.5 Carrillo was present in about 98% of them. The rod technology is up there with current crank technology now. Maybe the days of windowed blocks are done and over. One trend that is disappearing on the TR's of old is big wings and big tires. A mini tub and some 275 pro's can get it done with supporting suspension mods.

To this day I scratch my head when I read some signatures of people combos and see all of the latest and greatest gadgets to make them go fast, and keep them in a comfort zone. It's too expensive to tear rare parts up. I bet if I post a virgin stage 2 4.1 on center block for 3 grand now it will sell before the end of the day. But would the person that buys it immediately max out the bore and build it with the intention to have a 7 or 8 second race car. I seriously doubt it. We are overall safer to run at speeds now. To run 10's safely on a track you must have driveshaft loop, fire jacket and so forth. The same applies to 9,8 and 7 second cars.
I agree 100% with the current trend being exponential as you step into each speed zone. Sorry if the rant was long and veered off topic but I did want to get one point across that the same hard parts that were around in the 90's to get you to the 7's is still around in 2018 that can get you in the 10's, 9's, 8's or 7's. Maybe it's a lost technological art like the Great pyramids.
I remember those days!

I was way too young and broke and lacked the knowledge to partake in this sort of approach to Buick performance builds. But I was there. Cheering for you. Walking around in the pits taking pictures with my real camera with film in it.

This is what inspired me to build my modern "street friendly" combination.

My old photo album below.
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