Finally running again

[Marc87GN]

I recently installed the LT1 MAF , translator, hot wired fuel pump, CS-144 140 amp alternator, Billet Servo, Mega valve & 160 degree therm. The car idles tons better at 750-775. The BLMs are at 105, but was 150 before the MAF. Now the MAF shows 7 gps at idle vs 3 gps and the IAC is at 10-13. The fuel pressure is at 44 vac/off and 40 psi with vac/on. The only thing that concerns me is when I rev the car above 3K rpms, the voltage drops to 12.2 from 13.8. Unless the battery is tired from sitting for 3 weeks, the alternator should be able to handle anything. The throttle is definitely more responsive when I rev the engine and sounds great. I'm going for a drive shortly to check the shift firmness. I'm hoping for a 1-2 bark and very firm 2-3.

I guess next are the valve springs( I have them. 100 lb) & converter. The previous owner claims to have installed a non-lock-up B&M, but I have learned to take his comments with a grain of salt. I'm interested in the Extreme Duty Power Raptor Lock-up. It's a 9 1/2 with a 12" Carbon Fiber clutch. This will be in the fall.

 

[TurboShane]

BLM'S at 105 you better check your dip switches and knobie things too.

 

[Marc87GN]

I was told by several people that 128 is ideal, but not absolutely necessary. It's a little on the rich side, but that is the least of my concerns.

My biggest concern is the voltage dropping to 12.0 and then 11.9 above 3K rpms and the knock I'm getting. With a new battery (720 CCA) and new 140 amp alternator, this shouldn't be an issue. The voltage at the alternator says 14.0, but Turbolink says 13.5 and then when I raise the rpms, the voltage drops into the 12s. I checked the grounds on the back of the head and they are tight and fairly clean. It should be putting out quite a bit at those rpms, but the voltage is dropping.

 

[Marc87GN]

Problem possibly solved. The pulley on the new alternator is significantly smaller causing the belt to be too loose. I was able to turn the alternator fan by hand with the belt on so I know it's slipping badly. Anyway, I plan to pick up a smaller belt soon and will recheck the charging system.

 

[trbodon21]

If it is a non lock up converter there should be a non lock up valve installed in the pump. I would contact the previous owner and find out for sure because if you go back to lock up you will have to install the lock up valve to correct the fluid flow through transmission.

 

[Marc87GN]

Originally posted by trbodon21
If it is a non lock up converter there should be a non lock up valve installed in the pump. I would contact the previous owner and find out for sure because if you go back to lock up you will have to install the lock up valve to correct the fluid flow through transmission.

The previous owner was not TR savvy so I doubt that he would have put in a non lock-up valve. This could be contributing to all of the noise I hear around the converter cover. It sounds like a tinny rattle noise at idle. I will be rebuilding the trans over the winter and installing a new turbo, injectors & 2800-3K stall lock-up T/C.

Anyway, the charging problem remains. I pulled the cluster and everything looks clean in the back. I installed an Optima battery, smaller belt(60625 vs 60640) and I still get a voltage drop to 11.7-11.9 @ around 3,000 rpms. The voltage light comes on & the interior light dims. I'm beginning to think the alternator has a bad regulator. My friend is bringing over a DMM with inductive pickup so we can see the amp output at 2K & 3K with everything on.