floor pan repair help

[85HOT-T]

Ok so I was looking at this POR-15 stuff. Looks like a good product. What do you guys think or recomend? I do not want to remove floor pans, just want to repair. It does have some holes I need to repair also. I do have fiberglass too. Any help tips sugestions would be awesome, thanks.

 

[BadAssGN]

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/245927-novice-frame-off.html


:biggrin:

 

[JSTTA]

Por 15 is a great product. Do not fiberglass over rust. cut rust out and replace with new metal. If you do not own a welder , there are plenty of products that you can use to glue metal in and it is stronger than welding. Then you can por 15 over that. Alot of new cars are useing the new glue technology, ask your local body shop you are friendly with, the are many types and they all have different set up times too.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

POR is designed to be used over solid, dry rust. Putting it on clean or painted metal will/can result in it peeling off.
POR has a prep that can help w/ adhesion on clean metal, but absolutely will not work over paint.

 

[JSTTA]

I used it at least a dozen times on undercarraiges and rear ends, suffed with a scuff pad and painted with no problems of peeling. I even thinned it and sprayed it from a gun so far so good. Flat black would have been cheaper but the stuff holds up very well.

 

[Kovmat]

POR is designed to be used over solid, dry rust. Putting it on clean or painted metal will/can result in it peeling off.
POR has a prep that can help w/ adhesion on clean metal, but absolutely will not work over paint.

I agree, and bacaues of that, this is what I use: Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating

I am restoring a 56 year old vehicle and I am using it on everything. It goes over clean bare metal, rusted metal, old paint, and i even used it over self etching primer. It dries as hard as a rock and nearly impossible to chip.

I agree with JSTTA, do not use Fiberglass on your floor pans!, I spent 6 months completely replacing my floor pans that were covered in fiberglass.

 

[John Larkin]

How long do you plan to keep the car? If long, plan for some floorpans. I am guessing they are not in your budget right now. I suggest the following: (1) get one quart of Skyco Ospho at a hardware store or marine store (2) treat the metal to neutralize the rust for now (3) get one quart of USC All Metal body filler (4) tape over the holes from the bottom side, then apply the filler over the top side; then when it sets up remove the tape and spread the filler on the bottom side (5) sand smooth keeping the stock contours of the floorpan as intact as possible (6) topcoat both sides with rubberized undercoating. Using this technique and products will in total be equal to or less than one quart of POR-15.

 

[85HOT-T]

Thanks for your help guys. Im a gearhead who doesn't realy know squat about body, only HP. It works since Im a rat rod style guy, all go no show. Makes em look slow.hint.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I used this Rust Bullet - Ultimate Rust Prevention

Chuck

 

[GSTOY]

I know that home depot of all places rents welders. I'm sure pawn shops also have them to buy fairly inexpensively. But whatever you do, don't use glass to make that patch unless you want to do it again.

Steve

 

[85HOT-T]

Well from all your advice I think gutting and putting new pans is the best way to go.

First off where can I get replacement pans?

Second I hae an old lincoln stick welder. Will this work or do I need to use a MIG?

Thanks everyone youve all been a great help. :smile:

 

[Kovmat]

Can you post some pics of what they look like? There are other options that are easier.

However, if you replace them, a stick welder will be a nightmare welding sheet metal with. You should use a MIG or TIG.

 

[85HOT-T]

Can you post some pics of what they look like? There are other options that are easier.

However, if you replace them, a stick welder will be a nightmare welding sheet metal with. You should use a MIG or TIG.

Ill post some up in a few days don't have my camera.

I figured a stick would be hell seeing I use it for 1/4" plate and up.

 

[85HOT-T]

here ya guys go. Hope theese will work if not I can always take as many as it takes.:smile:

 

[Kovmat]

It looks like it rusted from the inside out. Maybe the floors got wet.

First, I want to warn you that I am not a body guy, I just happen to be restoring a 56 year old truck with a ton of rust and have done a lot of research on this. I am doing most of the the work myself so I know what is involved in doing this.

The best thing to do is completely get rid of the rust. That requires new pans or replacing sections of the pan. It looks like you have spots that are bad and maybe you can salvage most of the floor pan and just repair sections. If that is the case you can cut out the rusted metal and patch in a section. Since they are floor pans and you won't see them, you could do a overlap patch using a tool like this: Eastwood Co. - Panel Flanger you cut out the rusted metal, use this tool to put a flange around the area and set your new panel and weld it in place. They make a Weld Through Primer that you can coat the metal before you put it together so you do don't have any bare metal. If you don't want to weld in the the pannel, you can use a kit like this: Eastwood Co. - No Weld Panel Repair Kit It is kind of the same idea but you don't weld it in place.

The good thing is that floor pans are not visible so the repair does not have to look perfect and is a good place to practice your sheet metal work.

Good luck.