Front suspension upgrade questions

[IowaGN]

Hello all,

Gathering information/parts for my winter project which is rebuilding/replacing/restoring the stock(ish) suspension. I'm not looking to drag race, autocross or anything like that. Just a nice solid cruiser I can still have a little fun with in the curves.

Starting at the rear, I have a set of HP motorsport non-adjustable upper and lower control arms and stock rear roll bar. I put these on back in 1997 and haven't touched them since. They have poly bushings that are able to be greased. I also have new Bilsteins on all four corners.

Question 1: Is it worth replacing the control arms or at least the uppers to adjustable?
2. I know the factory bar is tiny, what would be a good stock location replacement?

Now for the front. Bone stock. Hasn't been touched since I bought the car in 1994. I'm guessing after 37 years the stock rubber is pretty well shot along with the springs. I don't necessarily want to lower the car due to some of the roads and driveway approach angles around here. To be fair I've been out of the GN game for years and haven't kept up with the latest and greatest. Last time I knew, S10 lower control arms were a thing and polyurethane bushings were bad because of squeaking. I've been lurking in the sticky threads and all that did was give me a headache.

Question: Is it better to keep the stock upper and lower control arms and just replace the bushings or replace them?
2. Last I knew f-body hollow sway bar was the way to go for the front. Still true or no?
3. Best bushing material for my application?
4. Tall ball joint. Can they be used on the stock control arms?
5. Spindle/caliper/brake upgrades that will fit behind 16" GNX replicas? Worth it or no?

Thanks for helping!

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Going with adjustable upper and lower control arms in the rear may be a benefit if you want to change pinion angle, center the axle left/ right or center the tires in the wheel well opening.
The car will corner better with a lager rear sway bar, but which bar depends on tire size front/ rear and coil springs.
The F-body hollow front sway bar is a moderate improvement with some weight reduction as a benefit.
Guys have found the factory springs will sag 1” over the years and suggest 1” lowering springs to maintain the same height the car is now.
I feel the front of the car is too floaty even with Bilstien shocks and stock springs and would suggest the UMI Performance 1” lowering springs.
The Moog problem solver A-arm bushings for the front or the replacement A-arms have a firmer rubber for a little less deflection.
1” taller upper ball joints can be used with factory style A-arms.
I think the 2wd S-10 spindle swap and brakes are an affordable upgrade that will work as well as some wilwood and Bear kits.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

I'm not looking to drag race, autocross or anything like that. Just a nice solid cruiser I can still have a little fun with in the curves.

If this is your goal, don't overthink it. Just Refresh it. Replace all the bushings and the ball joints. Take the poly out of the rear and put rubber back in. The poly causes a bind and makes the car unpredictable. You don't need to replace any of the control arms unless they're damaged. Even if you do, Speedway motors has stock stamped replacements for pennies compared to the tubular stuff. Again, with your stated objective, fancy doesn't buy you anything.

4. Tall ball joint. Can they be used on the stock control arms?

Yes. But only do the upper one. Doing a tall lower ball joint moves the spindle and cascades into replacing/fabricating a bunch of stuff to get the steering angles right again. Again, don't overthink it.