Front sway bar question for the experts

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I do know that not having a front sway bar helps the frame flex in a manner that helps plant the drive wheels but I just can't drive without a front sway. Already tried it. (though replacing all my body/control arms bushings may help) I do have the thickest solid sway bar you can have on the front with ply mounts/bushings.
My question is would going back to the factory sway bar with rubber software help get me some frame flex back? Would I notice a difference? I'm slowly upgrading part by part in my suspension, because SOMEthing's not right. My car with a shit tune still roasts these 275 hoosier drag slicks. I do have cargo coils on the rear (previous owner did it). Would putting the stock springs back on help at all? I'm thinking it would.

 

[Sweet6]

Start with the HR rear sway bar The car will be night and day better from that

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[Turbo6Smackdown]

Was hoping to keep as factory as possible.

 

[Sweet6]

The HR sway bar is a bolt in deal. Just to give you an idea my car handled better with the HR sway bar on back and no front sway bar then the car was with both stock bars on. A lot of guys say the HR bar was one of their favorite upgrades.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Wow. That's crazy.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Just put UMI trailing arms in. Nice. But no more traction lol. Will try taking a few more psi out. Running with 20 now.

Nothing on the factory sway up front?

 

[charlief1]

With a properly set up chassis the front sway bar won't effect traction at all. To do this you first need to scale the chassis and find out where the weight is. Without the front bar what the chassis does is transfer weight to the rear of the chassis easier, not better. It allows the front suspension to travel up which transfers the weight to the rear. The "twist" is die to the chassis not made for racing. It flexes to much and and causes the right side to squat considerably. Do a search on alkyV6 and you can see how his full caged car used to have this happen until he braced the frame up with a custom "X" member in the center. He also relocated his IC and the car launches just about perfectly now.

 

[scot w.]

You mentioned in your first post that you have "Cargo Springs" in the rear? That right there is working against weight transfer cause that is exactly what they were designed to do! Cargo springs were designed to not sag like a stock spring when a load is added.....

Swap out those Cargo springs with a stock spring and you Will notice a difference....

 

[Boost231]

I've gone 1.3* 60foots with cargo springs.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

You mentioned in your first post that you have "Cargo Springs" in the rear? That right there is working against weight transfer cause that is exactly what they were designed to do! Cargo springs were designed to not sag like a stock spring when a load is added.....

Swap out those Cargo springs with a stock spring and you Will notice a difference....

The previous owner did it. I want to take them off and put stockers on. That'll help eh?

 

[scot w.]

I've gone 1.3* 60foots with cargo springs.

Brent, I'm glad they worked for you and you got them to work.....

The purpose for cargo springs is to support an extra load hence the name "Cargo" which have more rate than a normal OEM spring which will be harder to compress for weight transfer over the stock spring... They are usually taller too....

We have swapped them out for OEM stock springs a bunch of times with the same results, better weight transfer!

 

[scot w.]

The previous owner did it. I want to take them off and put stockers on. That'll help eh?

Yeah I seen where you mentioned that the previous owner installed them, I will be willing to bet swapping them out for stock springs will Help you..

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

The REAL question lies here-who has the CORRECT part number for the springs with the EXACT SAME free height, wire diameter, same number of active coils etc etc as the orignals back in 87? I keep hearing people that have it, but they're never right

 

[scot w.]

The REAL question lies here-who has the CORRECT part number for the springs with the EXACT SAME free height, wire diameter, same number of active coils etc etc as the orignals back in 87? I keep hearing people that have it, but they're never right

Seeing you already have Air bags, Just buy a set of used stock springs!

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I actually wanted to get rid of all of that malarkey. The less shit on my car the better. I like the cleanest, most stock appearance I can go for. If taking two things off and replacing them with one is the key, then I'm all over it. And if going back to the factory sway bar set up will help me then I'll do that too.

 

[scot w.]

One way of getting rid of a bunch of Shock & Spring malarkey is to go with coil overs and better yet Adjustable coil overs so you can adjust the dampening for exactly what you want out of your car....

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

That sounds complicated lol. And expensive. How much are factory coils? 60 bucks?
My wife would KILL me lol.

 

[scot w.]

That sounds complicated lol. And expensive. How much are factory coils? 60 bucks?
My wife would KILL me lol.

LOL....

 

[Flyin Brian]

I got my rear stockish springs from Kirbans and they work well. Also, how old are those slicks? I recently replaced my drag radials which were only 4 years old and it made a big difference.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

My slicks are brand new. With a few hundred more rpm's than idle at a red light, I can lose traction with my tires Still can't find a 26" tall tire that holds. I can't imagine what's going to happen when I get my car dialed in lol. I may have to switch to 27 inch tires.