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GN-1 Header Bolts

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Jeff Rand

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2001
Messages
1,714
Recently had some exhaust header bolts working their way out of my aluminum Champion heads. What torque are you guys using and are there any other recomendations to keep these bolts in place?
Thanks,
Jeff
 
Hi Russ,

Are you using bolts or studs? Do you torque to a certain value? What color loctite are you using?

Thanks in advance.
 
Studs, all but the 2 top ones on the DS. Red lock tight. They worked good. Put em on on the engine stand. It would be harder with it in the car as one you need a wrench to tighten.
 
anyone use stage 8 locking header bolts?? I'm going to be using them on my stage motor.
 
Russ,

Thanks for the info......what are you using for the top two DS holes? Stock head studs?

Thanks again.
 
Yup, the 2 stockers. I'm workin on some pics tomorrow to get on here. I'll try to get some of those.
 
Thanks Russ....like to see the pics.

Reason for the questions am helping a buddy with his GN1s and ATR headers and bolts we got from ATR were bolts (not studs) with lock washers and we dry fitted them and we werent comfortable with how deep they went into the head and didnt want to take the chance of stripping the alum heads.

Called Champion for their head studs and they are out of them so my buddy ordered some from Summit for the 3.8 and we will put them on next week using loctite like ya said and reuse 2 stockers for the DS.

Thanks again for the info.
 
I had a similar problem. I got a length of stainless all-thread and cut pieces into the desired length on a lathe. I also threaded the bolt holes with a bottoming tap to take advantage of the full depth of the hole increasing thread engagement. I'm also using 12 point nuts from ARP. Studs are neccesary on aluminum heads if you plan on disassembling your motor frequently since the aluminum threads wear out and weaken.
 
Thanks for the advice Russ and Reedog, I will look into the studs from Summit. My problem is that the engine is in the car, so I might have to get creative.
Thanks,
Jeff
 
Originally posted by Jeff Rand
Thanks for the advice Russ and Reedog, I will look into the studs from Summit. My problem is that the engine is in the car, so I might have to get creative.Thanks, Jeff

That is a good reason NOT to use loctite on the studs. Removing them in the car is almost impossible w/o removing some studs.

Should be able to find studs that will work at a local hardware. Ones I found were correct coarse thread going into the head, and fine thread for the nuts.
 
Nick, I have purchased SS bolts from a local hardware store. They have a huge selection and I am sure they will have the studs and fine thread nuts. In your last reply you said not to locktite the studs. Is that correct? Most likley cheaper then Summit also.
Thanks,
Jeff
 
Originally posted by Jeff Rand
Nick, ........... In your last reply you said not to locktite the studs. Is that correct? Thanks, Jeff

Just installed a set of headers on GN-1 heads today. If the studs had be installed prior to this with Locktite, you could not have put on the heads. Conversly, you cannot remove the headers if you are not able to remove the studs.

Do not understand why it would be necessary to Locktite the studs in the heads?
 
Nick,

How much torque do you put on the studs? Reason I ask is we are waiting for my buddys studs to come in and with alum heads don't wanna take risk of going too far ans stripping threads. Even tho it's not my car just a little gun shy here.......lol.

Thanks
 
Originally posted by Buicksx2
Nick,
How much torque do you put on the studs? ....don't wanna take risk of going too far and stripping threads...Thanks

I don't worry about stripping the alum threads since they are not turning under load. Just screw the studs into the head finger-tight, then the nuts 25-30 ft-lbs. Good idea to check them after a couple heat cycles to make sure they have not loosened.
 
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