GN1 head gasket R&R with ARP head studs

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GSX-PKV

Active Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2001
Messages
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I am going to replace the headgaskets on my car this weekend. It has GN1 heads with ARP studs.

Does anyone have any advise or tips as to how to do this without taking the motor out of the car?

Pete Barton removed and reinstalled them once so I know it can be done, but I'm looking for any advice anyone has to offer. Thanks! Paul
 
Do the studs have the hex sockets on the ends? if so you would need a socket drive or allen wrench to take out the studs.
 
Originally posted by paul vilser
I am going to replace the headgaskets on my car this weekend. It has GN1 heads with ARP studs.

Does anyone have any advise or tips as to how to do this without taking the motor out of the car?

Pete Barton removed and reinstalled them once so I know it can be done, but I'm looking for any advice anyone has to offer. Thanks! Paul

what he said !!!

what head gaskets are you using ?

thanks
 
Thanks guys, Yes, they have the allen head slots in the studs.

I'm thinking of going with copper gaskets, but am still undecided. Worse come to worse, I'll dissasemble it this weekend and reassemble next week after I get the gaskets.

Pete Barton of ANS built the motor and is a half hour away from me so I planned on getting the gaskets from him.

If anyone has advice on what gasket's best with the GN1 heads I'm open to all suggestions. Thanks!!! Paul
 
Might give Tom a call at Champion; I think he is recomending the Cometic gaskets.
Jeff
 
Copper head gaskets?

On the pass side only the top row of studs need to be removed for the head to clear the A/C box. This is only true is the metal heat shield is not there.

On the driver's side, the master cylinder or booster may have to be moved and you can do this w/o taking off the brake lines.

Copper head gaskets??

We have never done this on a Buick motor only on some high $$$ race motors. You will need stainless o-rings [and grooves] to seal each cylinder and good luck on the water passages.

Both 9 sec. stock blocks we did that were in BG had steel head gaskets with Champion heads.
 
Cometics! Paul I would seriously consider pulling the motor and havign Pete check it if you ran anit-freeze through it.
Chris Lyons
 
I'm going to check a bearing or two when I take off the oil pan to clean it. If it looks OK, Ill just replace the gaskets. I hate to bring the motor to Pete because it will take him 2 months to even get to it because he is so swamped with work.

I drained the coolant at the track so it only went less than a half mile with AF mix in it. Hopefully the bearings are OK (fingers crossed). It has just water in it now and no leaks, but boost will be another story. It has vacuum and idles nice and there is no smoke or leaks.

This was probably caused by a faulty O2 sensor I just bought that day! It read .89 from the time the car started and all throught that run. The odd thing is the low speed fan was running. Either the O2 sensor or my stock ECM was sending false readings to my scan tool showing high O2 readings when actually, God knows what it really was. The knock detector indicated nothing but someone told me that the low speed fan running on an ice cold car is a signal that soemthing electronic went haywire. It's time for a FAST system, I guess...

I had a head "lift" last year, causing an external leak. Pete said it is possible, but unlikely, that it lifted when I shifted into OD at 6,000 rpm causing the leak. It was on a weak run and was not pulling hard through the traps like it normally does so I flipped it into OD near the finish line. It was 10 mph slower than usual. Pete said that maybe that could have lugged the motor causing a head to lift?

I'm doing a cooling system pressure test and compression test this morning and then I'll see what I find. If nothing, I'll change the oil a couple times and then run up the boost on the street to see if there are any leaks and go from there.

Cometic gaskets seem to be the best option. Thanks guys for the advice on those.

It's supposed to rain here all weekend so it's a good time to disassemble it to put back together next week.

At least i still have my old "backup car GSX" to go for parts in! Paul
Next year I'll bring my GSX becuse it's such a simple car to deal with! Paul
 
I did a pressure test on the cooling system. Went to 20lbs and had very slow drop. I drained the oil and at 20lbs pressure, water trickles out the oil pan drain plug so no luck! No point doing a compression test, maybe it could make matters worse with water in the oil. I have all h2o in there now at least.

I'll do both gaskets and try cometics. Maybe I'll pull the motor and detail the engine compartment while I have it out.

Thanks for everyones' advice. Paul
 
You said you got anti-freeze mixed in with oil. Bad for the bearings. Bad for the race track also, a no-no while racing.

Pull the motor. You have to check those bearings. They were contaminated with the anti-freeze.

Are the Champions o-ringed or loc-wired?

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
the 02 sensor could not possibly cause your trouble........it is not used at WOT

just my personal experience, but I do not recommend Cometics if you are going to race the car.......steel shim are much, much better

if you "lift a head" with Cometics, you will blow the gasket....with steel, more than likely, just a retorque will do the job....steels tend to leak, not blow
 
Woody, Have you tried Cometics? I know you can blow them but not sure what boost pressure they blow. I have a friend that popped one on a Ford. I have no leaks and I don't have to retorque my heads. Either way I'd rather pop a gasket than a piston.
 
I went thru about 3 sets of 'em.....they do not handle high boost very well (30 psi)....expensive and they blow very easily

with the steels, you do have the re-torque problems, but nothing like replacing the gaskets every time at the track
 
My boost spiked over 35 once and never blew one, maybe it wasn't long enough to hurt them. I may consider the steel ones next time.
 
AZGN- Do you have head studs and how much problem is it to retorque with the steels - how often? What do you consider 'high boost" over 25 psi?
 
Originally posted by azgn
I went thru about 3 sets of 'em.....they do not handle high boost very well (30 psi)....expensive and they blow very easily



Yea, I don't agree with that. I haven't gone 30 psi though either. Haven't needed to to go fast.
 
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