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SignUp Now!It has been proven by a lot of racers, that out of the box, untouched GN-1s will out flow and out perform fully ported iron heads. Another advantage to the GN-1s are, you can run higher boost levels on true 93 octane and more timing without detonation due to the cooling characteristics of the aluminum heads vs the cast iron stockers. Another plus for the GN-1s are, you don't have to worry about any cracking issues like you will with stock iron heads. True there have been some leaking issues with GN-1s but there are certain things that can be done to prevent it from happening. IE: a can of K&W block seal on initial start up. I would highly recommend going with aluminum heads, whether it's a street car or strip car. There are no disadvantages to running aluminum heads on the street. Do it, and you won't regret it. Making power with these motors comes a lot easier with aluminum heads. Match them with a decent sized cam and you'll have a recipe for serious hp and a lot of grins per mile.
HTH
Patrick
P.S. Comp 218/218 with GN-1s and a TE-45a or PT67 turbo = serious street killer.
It has been proven by a lot of racers, that out of the box, untouched GN-1s will out flow and out perform fully ported iron heads. Another advantage to the GN-1s are, you can run higher boost levels on true 93 octane and more timing without detonation due to the cooling characteristics of the aluminum heads vs the cast iron stockers. Another plus for the GN-1s are, you don't have to worry about any cracking issues like you will with stock iron heads. True there have been some leaking issues with GN-1s but there are certain things that can be done to prevent it from happening. IE: a can of K&W block seal on initial start up. I would highly recommend going with aluminum heads, whether it's a street car or strip car. There are no disadvantages to running aluminum heads on the street. Do it, and you won't regret it. Making power with these motors comes a lot easier with aluminum heads. Match them with a decent sized cam and you'll have a recipe for serious hp and a lot of grins per mile.
HTH
Patrick
P.S. Comp 218/218 with GN-1s and a TE-45a or PT67 turbo = serious street killer.
It has been proven by a lot of racers, that out of the box, untouched GN-1s will out flow and out perform fully ported iron heads. Another advantage to the GN-1s are, you can run higher boost levels on true 93 octane and more timing without detonation due to the cooling characteristics of the aluminum heads vs the cast iron stockers. Another plus for the GN-1s are, you don't have to worry about any cracking issues like you will with stock iron heads. True there have been some leaking issues with GN-1s but there are certain things that can be done to prevent it from happening. IE: a can of K&W block seal on initial start up. I would highly recommend going with aluminum heads, whether it's a street car or strip car. There are no disadvantages to running aluminum heads on the street. Do it, and you won't regret it. Making power with these motors comes a lot easier with aluminum heads. Match them with a decent sized cam and you'll have a recipe for serious hp and a lot of grins per mile.
HTH
Patrick
P.S. Comp 218/218 with GN-1s and a TE-45a or PT67 turbo = serious street killer.
I am doing the same thing right now! 14 bolts and T&D's stuff on order, Mike says it'll work---It'll work!!14 bolt work with stock block you just dont use the extra bolt holes...I used 14 bolt for two reasons,in case i upgrade to stage and also i wanted to use the jesel style T&D roller rocker setup that can be used with the 14 bolt head.HTH
well you say you are on a budget... why not just use irons ??? we have a set of irons here that are not that great compared to the Champions .. ran 10.10 with them in a street beater ... I'd be more concerned with your whole combo .. 1 part is not goin to make the car fly .. just my .02's![]()