GNS Performance line lock kit install with pics.

BuickMike231

60% of the time, it works every time.
Joined
Feb 21, 2007
Hey guys I just recently installed a line lock kit from GNS Performance and did a little walkthrough with pictures so you can guys see what the kit looks like installed. Enjoy!

GNS Line Lock Kit Installation
I just finished up installing one of the line lock kits from GNS Performance and wanted to share my experience with the install of the kit. First off, Scot W. is a pleasure to work with and answers any and all questions in short order and ensures you have all the info needed to install any of his products. Second, the kit itself is fantastic! It showed up packed very neatly in separate bags with the carbon fiber bracket (which is extremely well done) packed in bubble wrap.

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Here are the contents of the kit: the carbon fiber bracket, the rubber hose to go from the solenoid to the master cylinder, the line lock solenoid, the brass fittings and screws for the solenoid, and the switch and fuse along with the instructions for wiring and installation.

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Here is a close up of the bracket; it is a very well built and great looking piece.

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Here is a close up of the other components.

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Here is the rubber hose which eliminates bending more hard lines.

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Here is the line lock solenoid mounted to the bracket.

The instructions for mounting the solenoid are very clear and easy to follow and the wiring instructions are equally clear and straightforward. Scot has the bracket installation laid out in a step by step fashion with the brass fittings numbered so you literally just have to follow along with the instructions and you will have your new line lock installed in a very short amount of time!

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Above is a picture of the side of the power steering reservoir showing the two 10mm bolts you will need to loosen to slide the bracket in place. You will also need to remove the rubber cap (if yours is still there), nut, and clip that retains the cruise control cable from the stud shown just above the power steering reservoir in this picture.

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Here is the stud with the nut and rubber cap removed; the clip is still there at the moment.

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Here is the cruise control clip that needs to be removed, this is not used afterwards as the cruise control cable tucks nicely underneath the bracket.

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Here you can see the bracket and solenoid in place. The bracket drops right in place and slides onto the two 10mm bolts you loosened earlier from the power steering reservoir. This bracket fits like a glove! As you can see it’s contoured perfectly to sit right around the washer fluid reservoir and is NOWHERE NEAR the front hardline on the master cylinder. There was a thread on TurboBuick.com a little while ago where a guy was complaining about the fit of the GNS line lock kit’s bracket saying the front hard line was in the way. This is absolutely not the case. There was no bending or manipulating that front line at all, what you see is exactly how the line was before the install and the bracket drops in no problem.

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Here’s another angle of the bracket and solenoid installed. As mentioned above, there is absolutely no interference with the front hard line at all and there is plenty of room for the bracket to sit. There is no forcing or trimming needed to get the bracket to sit where it needs to, it literally falls right into place. (Don’t mind the dirty engine compartment!!)
 
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At this point you are ready to tighten up the 10mm bolts and start installing the brass fittings into the line lock solenoid.Here you can see the two of the three numbered brass fittings installed in the proper sides of the solenoid, with the rubber line installed as well.The numbered fittings and rubber line make this install a breeze.The three fittings are labeled as to where they need to go and the rubber line with the fittings pre-installed is a great, quality piece.It sure beats messing with bending and flaring brake line!

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Here is the third brass fitting which goes directly into the master cylinder after removing the stock hard line.

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Here is the stock hard line bent to fit into the line lock solenoid.The line bends pretty easy but one thing I did to ensure a good thread with the hard line and brass fitting was to pull the bracket/solenoid up, thread the hard line into the brass fitting, and then use that to easily bend the hard line in place while I placed the bracket back where it needed to be.The hard line can easily be bent back if the line lock was ever removed as well, which is nice.

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Here is a shot of the line lock fully hooked up with the hard line and rubber line in place from the solenoid to the master cylinder.

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Here is another shot of the kit fully installed.

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Here is a shot of the switch, fuse, and light that come with the kit.The fuse gets wired in line from the switch to the 12V power source.I personally opted to not use the light.

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Here is a shot of the switch installed on my shifter; I ran the wire under the console and out the bottom where it meets the carpet.Once it was all wired up I tucked all of the wire back under the edge of the console (between the plastic and the carpet) and tucked the rest up under the dash at that point.I didn’t take any pictures of the wiring as everybody has their own ways of doing things at this point.

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Once you’ve got the kit installed and the solenoid and switch wired up, all that’s left is to bleed the brakes and go lay some rubber to ensure your new line lock works!I prefer to use the Motive Power Bleeder so I can bleed brakes on my own.At this point you are ready to rock and go abuse some poor defenseless tires!Thanks for reading!
 
Thanks! If anybody wants more info or pictures of anything just let me know!
 
What adapater do you use with the Power Bleeder? Been reading good things about it and might look into purchasing one.
 
Use the 1105 rectangular universal adapter, it fits our reservoir perfectly. It is a breeze to bleed with one of these!
 
Maybe it is the pic....the rubber hose looks tight. Maybe needs another inch or 2? Nice kit for sure.
 
Maybe it is the pic....the rubber hose looks tight. Maybe needs another inch or 2? Nice kit for sure.
that's what i was thinking...either that, or a 90 degree coming from fitting 3.... but looks nice regardless... i need one.
 
I believe Scot can do the hose with a 90 degree fitting as well if I'm not mistaken. It's not as tight as it looks, it's just the way it's bent around to hit the fittings.
 
I just Installed a line loc system a couple weeks ago. I bled all four. It was time for the yearly powermaster system maintenance, so it only made sense. Didn't take much time to bleed all four.
 
Nice!
I like........
The power bleeder looks real interesting...Hmmmm

x2 on the tight bends on the rubber hose though. I think 45deg elbows would work too?
 
I could be wrong but I think Scot may have changed the ends of the hoses to the 45 degree fitting like every one is mentioning. It's been a while but I seem to remember him talking about something like that. The bends aren't that tight though, it looks worse in the pics. But since I installed that I have not had a single issue, it's a great kit!
 
I thought if you installed the line lock before the proportioning valve, it would illuminate the brake light on the dash And that nhra and most track rules demand that it be installed after the proportioning valve?
 
I read the same thing in this forum and on a couple other ones also. I didn't want to take a chance, I just installed mine after the proportioning valve. I Didn't want to go the easy route and have the dash brake light on. It was a bit harder, but I had no issues.

I also read the rear brake lights will illuminate every time the line loc button is engaged if the line loc is installed before the proportioning valve. So, through the entire burn out and once u roll out, the brakes will be illuminated. Not sure if thats 100% true, but that is what I also read.
 
Not sure on the brake lights being on, but my dash light would flash real quick the first time I pushed the pedal after the button was released. After that it never comes back on, and I have never had it stay on or anything like that. Never had a problem at tracks either, the local Buick club runs at most tracks around North TX including Ennis, which is NHRA. Never had any tech guys even question it. I had read about it being after the prop valve too. Never had any problems this way. Hope that helps!
 
Nice, I am planning on adding lock line this coming summer. This looks like an easy setup and it has the plate for mounting.
 
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