got one for you guys??????

[HGturboT]

Here is the current set up that I can tell-
-63mm turbonetics turbo
-RJC PP
-FPR
-Stock intercooler w/ duttwiller neck
-GSS340 w/hotwire
-headers (unknown brand, nice thow) & 2.5 in. down pipe w/ external waste gate & cut out
-don't know what size injectors but not stock and has white stripes in middle, i'm guessing they are 50's because the chip in the computer says 50# on it but don't know what brand or by who.


This motor has been rebuilt by someone and don't know what they did internall, but the motor idles nice and drives nice. Here is problems I see and what DS tells me.
-The temp sensor for the comp. is broken. the engine idles normal but idles high upon fire up every time for a few secs.
-The waste gate solenoid is disconnected (guessing because he has the external waste gate)
-codes 15,24,32 in that order
-02 volts were at 404
-TPS was good, BLM's were good, MAF was good and forgot the others, think they were all good cause would have remembered if bad.

Basically when we tried to give it WOT it would detonate @ 13psi. I put the fuel pressure at 46psi and we put 10 gallons of 100 oct. and 5 gallons of 91 oct. on an empty tank. The EGR was all intact, we put all new plugs (r42ts) and new 02 sensor.

What I think/hope- need higher octane

All help is much appreciated

 

[BoostKillsStres]

Coolant sensor controls air fuel ratio for power enrichment, so that could be drastically throwing off your WOT fueling depending on what the ECM defaults to for temp if it thinks the sensor is dead, replace it. The other codes are vehicle speed sensor and egr, figure out whats wrong there.

All TR's idle high for a little while when started unless the chip maker has adjusted the IAC startup values to stop it from being so high for so long. You just have to deal with that one unless you get a different chip or make sure your IAC settings are correct which may be part of the problem.

If the wastegate solenoid is disconnected and its not setting a code then the chip is no longer checking to see if its there so don't worry about it.

O2 volts should be drastically jumping around unless at WOT at which point they should be in a fairly consistant range.

It shouldn't be knocking at 13 psi so get the codes sorted out before going for any more boost runs. Also check the engine mounts possibly allowing movement causing possible false knock from the downpipe or something else hitting somewhere.

Good luck.

 

[HGturboT]

02 volts at idle was 404
couldn't use DS while driving cause cig. lighter didn't work. DS only used at idle.

 

[dyermullet]

Originally posted by HGturboT

-The temp sensor for the comp. is broken. the engine idles normal but idles high upon fire up every time for a few secs.

Part Number SU109 at Autozone $9.99. My sensor readings were jumping around(and causing it to code) the autozone one works fine.

If you bring in the part number to autozone then you don't have to go through the whole routine about what car and what motor and all that crap.

If you do a search on this site I had read where someone posted how to check the wiring, and the OHMs that the snesor should be putting out at different temperatures. But I personaly just checked the connector, and it was good so I replaced the sensor because it is so cheap. Problem solved

Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I think you are sapost to start at the lowest code and correct the problem then recheck and contine untill are problems are corrected. Make sure you clear the ecm after you fix the problems to erase all stored codes.



This link has a listing of the codes and some trobleshooting.
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html

Scott