Sounds like my break in advise is gettin around.
Do NOT use the STP. Pour in half a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer and a K&N oil filter. Dont get the synthetic type. Add 5 quarts of straight 30 weight dinosaur oil. Make sure all the sensors are adjusted and working. Fire it up and take it straight to 3000rpm. Go between 2500 up to 3500rpm...back and forth for about 15 minutes. After you're done, shut down and let the engine cool. Drain the oil and throw in 5 more quarts of 30 weight, and the second half of the bottle of oil stabilizer. Warm it up and take it out on the road. Make sure you have the boost turned down. Go wide open throttle at 10psi or so (no more than that), and wind it up to about 1000rpm below redline. You need to pressurize the cylinders to expand the rings to help them seat, and wind it up to help the valves seat properly. Drive it around for about 30 minutes on the street, and do the wide open throttle run, through a couple gears, and do it about 5 times. When you get back, let it cool and drain the oil. Throw on a new K&N, and fill it up with one of the 4 oils:
Royal Purple
Redline
Valvoline SYN
Quaker State "Q" High rpm.
I would do the quaker state because its not a full synthetic, for about 500 miles. Then after that, always run a synthetic, with the exception of running a good dino oil once every 15000 miles or so, to get rid of the glaze on the cylinder walls, that synthetic can leave. This glaze can cause major leakdown and blowby AND compression problems.
After about 10,000 miles or so, start running a good additive for the sake of the flat tappet cam not going flat. EOS is good, but I prefer Valvoline SYN additive. They make a SYN oil and a SYN additive. The SYN additive has massive amounts of moly, zinc and phosphorous.
Avoid any and all oils that have the starburst symbol on them. ESPECIALLY for the break in oil. These are oils that the EPA has reduced additives in dramatically, to help engines burn cleaner. But its that main reason cams are going flat.
