Does anyone know if the Wastegate solenoid connector is supposed to be +12V on one of the pins with the key on? I'm trying to chase down a charging problem. Car is running on battery at 11.5V. I have the Casper's field fix harness because I have a GNX dash and have by-passed the volt idiot light bulb circuit thus I need to provide the alternator +12V from the Wastegate solenoid. But I took a volt-meter to that connector and I don't have a +12V signal on either terminal. I looked at the wiring diagrams and I can't seem to find any info.
Having a charging problem...no +12V signal going to alternator.
- Thread starter d0n_3d
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
TURBOTWIN2
ASE CMAT L1
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2005
- Messages
- 1,997
Check the fusible links coming off the starter.
fusible links have voltage...tested the fuse box and everything has voltage...the ECM/SOL fuse has voltage and there are no blown fuses...where should I trace the wiring from the wastegate solenoid connector? which one is positive? pink and black or purple and white? my fuel vapor canister is not getting a 12V signal either with the key on...I hate wiring issues!
I hate wiring as well 
. Pink with black stripe is GM for "hot when key is on". The purple/white wire goes to the ecm which grounds it to turn the solenoid on. You need to trace the pink/black wire back from solenoid to fuse box and find the open. Grab of copy of the cd with the factory service manual, it has all the wiring diagrams and connector locations.
. Pink with black stripe is GM for "hot when key is on". The purple/white wire goes to the ecm which grounds it to turn the solenoid on. You need to trace the pink/black wire back from solenoid to fuse box and find the open. Grab of copy of the cd with the factory service manual, it has all the wiring diagrams and connector locations.well I have a major problem now...SOMETHING is draining my battery even with no key in the ignition...I don't use a MAF sensor anymore so I actually spliced the old MAF wire (pink/blk) into the wastegate solenoid connector and got positive voltage to the solenoid where now I can energize the alternator with the caspers field fix harness...
but now I can put a voltmeter to my battery directly and I can just watch the voltage drop before my eyes even when there is no key on...when I took off the negative cable, the voltage remained constant at around 11ish...but I can watch my voltage drop all the way into the 5's when I hook it back up...I'm starting to get quite annoyed with this car...it was running fine a few months ago...I can't figure out what I did to this thing
but now I can put a voltmeter to my battery directly and I can just watch the voltage drop before my eyes even when there is no key on...when I took off the negative cable, the voltage remained constant at around 11ish...but I can watch my voltage drop all the way into the 5's when I hook it back up...I'm starting to get quite annoyed with this car...it was running fine a few months ago...I can't figure out what I did to this thing
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 21,016
It very well could be the battery, then again, I wouldn't blame it if the car hasn't been charging it for a long time.
If you use the second feed MAF pink wire make sure you have removed the existing bad feed pink/blk to the solenoid wire also, only use the one known good feed wire on the solenoid and field fix harness.
Remove the cars positive or neg. battery cable and fully charge up the battery, then see how long it stays above 12 volts.
Then you need to do the proper current draw tests on a fully charged battery, key off static draw tests with an ammeter.
If you use the second feed MAF pink wire make sure you have removed the existing bad feed pink/blk to the solenoid wire also, only use the one known good feed wire on the solenoid and field fix harness.
Remove the cars positive or neg. battery cable and fully charge up the battery, then see how long it stays above 12 volts.
Then you need to do the proper current draw tests on a fully charged battery, key off static draw tests with an ammeter.
