HELP! New engine installed - can't get fuel pump/inj to run!

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BEATAV8

The Engine Whisperer
TurboBuick.Com Supporter!
Joined
Feb 14, 2002
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I just finished up the install of my new engine and I must've screwed up something in the wiring harness cuz the fuel pump will not run when I key on. I can manually get it to run by jumping power to the test connector, so it seems to have a good ground, just no power. The injectors will not fire either.

Any ideas what might be wrong??

I checked the harness grounds at the back of the pass. side cyl head and I checked the power leads at the starter and they look OK. There are only 2 power leads at the starter going to the harness, right?

ground to firewall seems OK.

FP/INJ fuse is OK, and the fuse block is showing 12 volts on that circuit.

Swapped relays - didn't help.

If anyone knows where the fuel pump and injectors get power from that might help me out here.

The only thing not hooked up yet is the powermaster brakes.
 
Originally posted by MJRWOOD
I just finished up the install of my new engine and I must've screwed up something in the wiring harness cuz the fuel pump will not run when I key on. I can manually get it to run by jumping power to the test connector, so it seems to have a good ground, just no power. The injectors will not fire either.

Any ideas what might be wrong??

I checked the harness grounds at the back of the pass. side cyl head and I checked the power leads at the starter and they look OK. There are only 2 power leads at the starter going to the harness, right?

ground to firewall seems OK.

FP/INJ fuse is OK, and the fuse block is showing 12 volts on that circuit.

Swapped relays - didn't help.

If anyone knows where the fuel pump and injectors get power from that might help me out here.

The only thing not hooked up yet is the powermaster brakes.



May want to check that the oil sender wire terminal is plugged in, plus if the dash (idiot) lights won't come on when the ign switch is turned to the on position the ECM is toast.

Good luck,
HOW
 
Did you plug in the orange power wire for the ECM? Is the crank sensor plugged in??
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

ECM power feed is connected.
Oil pressure switch wiring seems good. Fuel pump will run if I jump the terminals there.
crank sensor is plugged in.

I think the cam sensor is in right (per casper's tool instructions) and besides that would not prevent the fuel pump from running at key on, right?

idiot lights are working but I'm not sure if check engine light is working. I'll have to look at that next. If I did fry my ECM I don't know how I did it, and I have a spare but maybe it would fry too if I tried to hook it up.:(

I just can't wait to hear this baby pop to life! It's a ANS machined motor with all the goodies, 210 roller, diamond pistons, ported heads, steel caps...
 
Originally posted by MJRWOOD
Thanks for the replies guys.

ECM power feed is connected.
Oil pressure switch wiring seems good. Fuel pump will run if I jump the terminals there.
crank sensor is plugged in.

I think the cam sensor is in right (per casper's tool instructions) and besides that would not prevent the fuel pump from running at key on, right?

idiot lights are working but I'm not sure if check engine light is working. I'll have to look at that next. If I did fry my ECM I don't know how I did it, and I have a spare but maybe it would fry too if I tried to hook it up.:(

I just can't wait to hear this baby pop to life! It's a ANS machined motor with all the goodies, 210 roller, diamond pistons, ported heads, steel caps...



The fuel pump on my car would work if the wire behind the alternator was shorted to the "bat" terminal, plus fuel could be heard passing thru the fuel rail but it wouldn't start-would try some of the time though.

I did all the usual checks and found fuel, air, and fire was getting TO the engine, however, it turns out the injector drivers were shot.

The ONLY dash light that would come on with ign key in the on/run position was the "brake" light.

Good luck, I certainly understand your frustration(s)

HOW
 
Ooooo.. thanks for the reminder. My ECM has special drivers for the 55lb injectors. If I tried my spare ECM it wouldn't work anyways....

If all fails I'll haul it to Caspers. They're not too far.
 
Check the 10 amp. ECM/IGN fuse.

Check the fuel pump relay for power and ground.

Pink/Black wire and Black/Wht wires respectively, key on test power will only appear for 3 seconds via the ECM.

Output power from the relay to the pump is a gray wire on the relay connector.

Finally make sure your hot wire kit is good and wiring installed properly and intact.
 
Man I'll be happy if that's it. It could be 180 off. I didn't think it would matter to the fuel pump though.
 
Cam sensor position has nothing to do with actual operation of the fuel pump (unless it's unplugged).
 
Turbodave. MJRWOOD said he can get the fuel pump to run by going straight to the hot wire behind the alternator. If the cam sensor is not timed correctly during startup the ECM will not trigger the relay to run the fuel pump. It is the same as disconnecting the cam senor, then trying to start the car....Won't work.....
 
Um, aren't there five fusible links going from starter to the main harness, not two?
 
Originally posted by texasturbo
Turbodave. MJRWOOD said he can get the fuel pump to run by going straight to the hot wire behind the alternator. If the cam sensor is not timed correctly during startup the ECM will not trigger the relay to run the fuel pump. It is the same as disconnecting the cam senor, then trying to start the car....Won't work.....

The cam sensor has nothing to do with the activation of the fuel pump.

Go out to your car and simply turn on the key. You'll hear the fuel pump start to pump, for about 3 seonds. If it needed a signal from the cam sensor it wouldn't start pumping until the engine was turned over.

Once the initial 3 seconds is finished however, the ECM awaits a signal from the crank sensor to signify that the engine is turning over; once it receives one it will then restart the fuel pump.
 
IT IS ALIVE!!

The tip from hellonwheels about the check engine light sent me in the right direction. The light was not coming on so I figured either the ECM was fried or not getting power. I checked the ECM feed for voltage and found 0 V. The wire was cracked inside the insulation from too many years of flopping around. I fixed it and she fired right up.

The roller lifters ticked for a few seconds until they pumped up and then she just purred like a kitten.

It's a great feeling to hear the engine run so smooth and quiet after all the hours of assembling it and putting it into the car. And a big relief after spending all that $$$ on machine work and parts!

Thanks to all you guys... and lookout for another 10 sec ANS turbo Regal in Chi-town!

(well.... she still needs a bigger turbo and a Jimmy's trans to get those 10's, but SOON anyways for sure!)
:D :) :D :) :D :)
 
Re: Re: HELP! New engine installed - can't get fuel pump/inj to run!

Originally posted by HellOnWheels
May want to check that the oil sender wire terminal is plugged in, plus if the dash (idiot) lights won't come on when the ign switch is turned to the on position the ECM is toast.

Only the SES, Sevice Engine Soon, light is under ecm control.
 
Originally posted by ChrisCairns
The cam sensor has nothing to do with the activation of the fuel pump.

Go out to your car and simply turn on the key. You'll hear the fuel pump start to pump, for about 3 seonds. If it needed a signal from the cam sensor it wouldn't start pumping until the engine was turned over.

Once the initial 3 seconds is finished however, the ECM awaits a signal from the crank sensor to signify that the engine is turning over; once it receives one it will then restart the fuel pump.
I think my pump is not working also,,if one was to shrt the terminal on the back of the Alternator to the case of the ALT ,,would that blow some fuses for the pump,,trying to empty my gas tank with a hose connected to the shraeder valve ,,but no pump when the key is turned forward 1 notch........have to check

thanks Dennis
 
Hi Dennis,
I think you are right, shorting the fuel pump diagnostic terminal to the alt case would pop the FP/INJ fuse. If you jump this terminal to the positive stud on the back of the alternator (+BAT) then the fuel pump should run.
 
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