Homemade engine run stand

Steve V

Steve V's Automotive 757 560 2782
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
Today I put this homemade engine run stand together. The purpose of running the engine before the install is to check for major leaks, major abnormal noises, oil pressure verification, in the event of using a flat tappet cam you can break it in out off the car as well. Once the engine has been ran at temperature you can retorque the heads before the install as well.

I used an old engine harness that I had. Obviously there are some major components missing that you have to deal with but it's pretty simple. The hardest part is finding what wires in the c100& c437 connectors that need power. There's no ignition switch or fuse box to power that stuff this way. I hooked up only the necessary sensors to make it start and run. I didn't use a switch to start it I just jumped the purple wire to power in the bulkhead connector since they both pass through it. You have to power the ECM, and send power to the module, coil and injectors as well.

I used an old fuel pump in a plastic oil jug, old radiator, a battery and a trickle charger. That's all I had available. Ideally a real battery charger is best. Because of this I powered the fuel pump off my moonroof GN. A set of old battery cables, an old scanmaster that I tapped into the serial data line.

Once it was live I tested it with no water. Fired right up. I added water and let the engine run. I didn't have a fan on the radiator today, but it was cool. I will add one in the future once I refine it. It's going to get a lot of use.
 

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More pics and videos on my Facebook page, they take a long time to load on here.
 
I actully have been working on one myself
 

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Using a regular engine stand to hold it while it's running?

Ballsy.
 
Yes an engine stand with 4 corners not 3, it's stable no issues at all.

Sure, four corners on the stand, but the engine is only held in place by the spindle at the bellhousing. If whatever you have holding that interface shakes out or fails, that thing will spin violently and throw itself over. I'd run a bar up each side from the frame to the motor mount locations to completely eliminate the possibility of it windmilling. Or at least a couple of ratchet straps. But that's just me.

Not saying it will. Just saying it could. And it would be real bad if it did. Not pooping on your ingenuity, just offering a suggestion to improve it.
 
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