How long wheel studs for draglites?

[nickb]

I want to know what size wheel studs to get so I can bolt on these Weld drag lites today.

Thanks,
Nick

 

[Rickracer]

Ideally, they should protrude through the wheel by at least the diameter of the stud.

NHRA legally, the lugnut has to engage the threads by at least the diameter of the stud. I'd go with 3" studs and open ended lugnuts, that way tech inspectors can see at a glance that you're in compliance.

 

[Roc87]

I used 2.5" ARP Studs, didn't have to remove the axles to install them. I looked and looked, but couldn't really find any studs that were 12mm x 1.5 that were for the stock axle. The guy that sold them to me at Checker is also a tech at the strip, said they'd be fine. Welds are roughly 1 inch thick, the studs are 2.5", and my lugnuts are roughly 2.5", he said even if they don't stick out but he could see the stud, it would be OK. Using McGard open ended, long shank lugs, with plastic cap to cover the opening when not at the track.

 

[nickb]

Thanks guys! Think I'm going to go with the 3" studs just wondering how hard it is to remove the axles.

Nick

 

[J Banning]

Originally posted by nickb
Thanks guys! Think I'm going to go with the 3" studs just wondering how hard it is to remove the axles.

Nick

Sent you a PM.

Removing the axles is easy. You'll agree once you do it.

Rickracer: You might want to check that. I believe the NHRA says that the wheel stud must PRODTRUDE from the lug nut at least as far as the width of the stud (i.e.: if you have a 1/2" stud, then it must protrude 1/2" from the end of the lug nut).

I'll double check my NHRA rule book, but I *thought* that was the rule. I appologize if I am incorrect.

-Banning.

 

[Rickracer]

I could be wrong about that ...

It's been a few years since I've really studied the rule book, and some things may have changed. It's hard to be too safe when it come to stuff like that though, that's why I recommended the 3" studs.

 

[turbojimmy]

Re: I could be wrong about that ...

Originally posted by Rickracer
It's been a few years since I've really studied the rule book, and some things may have changed. It's hard to be too safe when it come to stuff like that though, that's why I recommended the 3" studs.

I've been confused by this definition before. I thought the rule book said "protrude", too, but it doesn't. According to the 2004 rulebook:

"Wheel studs must be threaded into hex portion of lug nut a distance at least equal to the diameter of the stud"

So they don't actually have to protrude. I used the 3" GM studs, too which protrude. As rickracer said, the tech inspectors just have to glance to know you're in compliance.

Jim

 

[tim87tr]

Originally posted by J Banning
Sent you a PM.

Removing the axles is easy. You'll agree once you do it.

-Banning.

I just pulled the axles to add the longs studs. Another item to be aware of is the axle seals. They have a circular spring on the back side of the rubber seal to hold the seal to the axle, and I found one spring had popped off.

To replace the seals I used a long crow bar with curved tip to pull the metal cap and seal out. I didn't have a large enough socket to tap the new cap and seal back in. I found a rubber mallet fit perfect into the axle tube, and I hit the back side of it with a dead blow hammer to seat the new caps/seal.

 

[Rickracer]

You can use the button on the end of the axle to pop the seal out

And BTW, now is a great time to replace those seals. Cheap insurance.