KevinBroadwater
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- Joined
- Mar 4, 2002
- Messages
- 454
I'm going to be changing the turbo inj. and the convertor.What kind of time will it take me to do this all 3 will be the first I done this.Like how long for the turbo/ inj./conv.THANKS
How long will it take first time installing these items
- Thread starter KevinBroadwater
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injectors are easy.......use new o-rings
turbo a bit harder...oil drain line can be a PITA, as can the downpipe
converter difficult unless you know what you are doing (must pull trans, converter must be properly seated....)
recommend you find someone who has done this before to at least hang around......
turbo a bit harder...oil drain line can be a PITA, as can the downpipe
converter difficult unless you know what you are doing (must pull trans, converter must be properly seated....)
recommend you find someone who has done this before to at least hang around......
I think it took me 1 1/2 - 2 hours for the injectors and 2 - 2 1/2 for the turbo. The hardest thing for me to do was get the new oil feed lin for the turbo threaded into the block. I never tried the converter - I paid someone to do that. Good luck.
progress1vebmx
Asian man #1
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2002
- Messages
- 692
The oil return line took me an hour or two to do =/.
BlackMagic
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2003
- Messages
- 116
The converter can be done in your garage with nothing more than some hand tools, a jack and jackstands, and about 4-6 hours of work if you haven't done it before. After you've done it a few times, you're looking at 3-4 hours of work.
Don't take this as gospel, but here is a rough rundown on it.
1) Disconnect battery.
2) Jack car up, support on 4 jackstands as high as you can safely get it off the ground.
3) Unbolt driveshaft at rear end.
4) Remove 4 torque converter inspection cover bolts. Lay inspection cover aside.
5) Unbolt 3 torque converter bolts from flexplate.
6) Unbolt transmission mount and transmission crossmember, lay crossmember aside.
7) Disconnect tranny fluid lines from tranny. Remember which line goes where.
8) Disconnect shifter linkage from tranny.
9) Support tranny with floor jack (tranny jack preferred if available.) I like to use a small section of plywood on a floor jack to have a larger cross section of tranny pan supported on jack. The tranny will be VERY front heavy, so support should be biased toward the front.
10) Support engine at oil pan with wide wood blocks or spare jack with wood on it to prevent denting/scuffing of oil pan.
11) Unbolt 6 belhousing to engine bolts. Use a LOOOONG extension with a swivel on it to reach the top bolts. It helps to have a short socket, swivel, and loooong extension (like a 2 foot extension) to get to them. Put some electrical tape around the swivel joint if it's too floppy.
12) Roll tranny jack or floor jack backwards to loosen tranny from engine and clear torque converter.
13) Lower tranny down to access torque converter. You MIGHT be able to get away with removing/reinstalling converter while it's still up in the air, but it's MUCH safer and easier just to lower the tranny to floor level.
14) Remove old converter...tranny fluid WILL spill out.
15) Prefill new converter with tranny fluid.
16) Possibly replace front pump seal while you can get to it easily. Cheap and fairly easy to do.
17) Slide new converter on tranny shaft, push towards transmission and spin it around until it seats in tranny. It MUST be seated fully or damage will occur.
18) Lift tranny up, reconnect everything in reverse order.
19) Start up, check tranny fluid, top off fluid.
20) Enjoy.
-Shawn
Don't take this as gospel, but here is a rough rundown on it.
1) Disconnect battery.
2) Jack car up, support on 4 jackstands as high as you can safely get it off the ground.
3) Unbolt driveshaft at rear end.
4) Remove 4 torque converter inspection cover bolts. Lay inspection cover aside.
5) Unbolt 3 torque converter bolts from flexplate.
6) Unbolt transmission mount and transmission crossmember, lay crossmember aside.
7) Disconnect tranny fluid lines from tranny. Remember which line goes where.
8) Disconnect shifter linkage from tranny.
9) Support tranny with floor jack (tranny jack preferred if available.) I like to use a small section of plywood on a floor jack to have a larger cross section of tranny pan supported on jack. The tranny will be VERY front heavy, so support should be biased toward the front.
10) Support engine at oil pan with wide wood blocks or spare jack with wood on it to prevent denting/scuffing of oil pan.
11) Unbolt 6 belhousing to engine bolts. Use a LOOOONG extension with a swivel on it to reach the top bolts. It helps to have a short socket, swivel, and loooong extension (like a 2 foot extension) to get to them. Put some electrical tape around the swivel joint if it's too floppy.
12) Roll tranny jack or floor jack backwards to loosen tranny from engine and clear torque converter.
13) Lower tranny down to access torque converter. You MIGHT be able to get away with removing/reinstalling converter while it's still up in the air, but it's MUCH safer and easier just to lower the tranny to floor level.
14) Remove old converter...tranny fluid WILL spill out.
15) Prefill new converter with tranny fluid.
16) Possibly replace front pump seal while you can get to it easily. Cheap and fairly easy to do.
17) Slide new converter on tranny shaft, push towards transmission and spin it around until it seats in tranny. It MUST be seated fully or damage will occur.
18) Lift tranny up, reconnect everything in reverse order.
19) Start up, check tranny fluid, top off fluid.
20) Enjoy.
-Shawn
If you do the front seal in the trans...
I'm not sure about the GN 200R4s, but most of the 200R4s and 700R4s use a seal retainer, that, if it isn't replaced, will allow the seal to blow out just when you least expect it, like a few days down the road. Then you gotta do it all over again. Make sure if your trans uses a seal retainer, that you get a new one with the front seal. Don't ask me how I know this.
I'm not sure about the GN 200R4s, but most of the 200R4s and 700R4s use a seal retainer, that, if it isn't replaced, will allow the seal to blow out just when you least expect it, like a few days down the road. Then you gotta do it all over again. Make sure if your trans uses a seal retainer, that you get a new one with the front seal. Don't ask me how I know this.
