How to Remove Wire Connector from Digital Gauge Cluster...

mgmshar

Active Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2002
OK, this was supposed to be an enjoyable day working on my car. Turning into a nightmare. I'm trying to get the digital cluster out of the car. Now that I've given the speedo cable some slack and removed the screws, I've got the cluster pulled out as far as it will go.

1. How in the helk does one remove the wiring connector from the back of the cluster? Is there a release I can't see or something? I'm not talking about the VSS wires nor the ground strap - I'm talking about the approximately 12 pin connector that is attached to the rear of the cluster.

2. How in the helk do you remove the knob from the trip odometer reset? I tried turning it counter-clockwise as described on GNTTYPE, and all that did was break the switch.

Anybody who can give a quick answer (and who's done this before) appreciated...

Thanks,
 
Oh, and the knob: Grab the shaft with needle nose pliers and unscrew the knob. If you break the switch, well, they don't make replacements any more....!
 
Go to casper electronics website he has specific removal directions for the digital dash.Its not hard to remove,I think it was 4 small screws holding the clear cover on and 5 holding the actual dash in.Then there are 2 holding the odometer to the dash.remove all those and it should pull right out.As far as the trip odometer reset hold the small shaft with a needle nose pliers and turn the end knob off with your fingers.That wiring connector simply slips into each other,no clips or anything.Hope that helps,if not like I said check out caspers,I just had mine out I followed his instructions,had no problems.Oops I see John posted before I finished posting this.
 
I appreciate everyone's help. Maybe I should have been more clear. The reason I am removing the cluster is so I can lube the speedo cable. So, I need to pull the cluster completely out of the way...

How does that electrical connector come off the back of the cluster?

Thanks,
 
If you're trying to get the bow connector out, there's a latch on the ends of the connector. Press the latch in towards the connector and it will snap out of the cradle. You can usually get it out by releasing only one of the two latches, then angle the connector out of the cradle.

Then you can pull the cradle forward enough to disengage the cable. It will be easier if you disconnect the coupling near the powermaster. The actual cable from there into the car is just a short extension.
 
John,

The connector in question is the one in the center of the photo below. I just spent the last half-hour feeling for these "latches" on the ends of the connector, but they don't appear to be there. There are two little "bumps" on the bottom side of the connector, but I can't tell what they do.

I feel like an idiot for not being able to get this connector out, but it's just not happening. Any ideas?

20121222_185041.jpg


Thanks,
 
OK, I'm officially a moron...

Yes, when you remove the digital cluster (NOT the cluster holder), you have clear access to the speedo cable. Not to mention the above connector can only be removed from the front of the cluster holder after the cluster has been removed. Swallowed the stupid pill tonight.
 
Yeah, if you follow those instructions, you'd get the odometer floating in the cluster. Then you can easily remove it, spray the cable, then put it back. Owell, you got it down to that bulkhead. You need to get medieval on those latches, then they'll move out of the way and you can remove the connector.

But you already know you don't need to do that.
 
OK, cable is all lubed-up and ready to go. Lesson learned.

During this process, I over-twisted the trip reset knob. So, now the knob spins freely (can't change from metric to English). But, I can still reset the trip odometer by pushing the knob. Is this repairable, or am I screwed?

Thanks,
 
The switch is not available any longer. When I repair them, I have to cannibalize a good core. It can sometimes be repaired though. To do that, you need to grind the gripper end of the reset shaft down a bit, then squeeze the remaining grip area together, enough to grab what's left of the plastic in the switch. Kind of tricky, but it will work if you're patient. I have done dozens of them, and most of the time, it works. It all depends on how much plastic is left in the switch. Once you get it apart, you'll see what I mean.

I will do a tech write-up on it one day.
 
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