HRPartsNStuff's new anti-roll bar/swaybar

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True, but:

ATR sway bar: $180 + Good aftermarket LCAs: $250 = $440

With an ATR bar, aftermarket LCA's are a must so they dont get deformed by the ATR bar.

With this anti-roll, there is no contact with the LCA's so they may not be needed. I guess its a trade off.
 
Nice, lightweight set up that works from a great vendor .

No hassles on installation like the Wolfe Style bars nor cost for installation.

Looks to me as if this will sell very well. :)
 
I first saw it at BG this year. My opinion is it's the best,most thought out anti-roll/ sway bar on the market. I think it will be the bar of choice for any car it's designed for. Paul can go ahead and retire if he get's it fit for F-bodies and mustangs. I'll buy one when I get to that point.
 
Indeed, it does look like a very well thought out peice. If I didn't just buy the ATR bar this winter I would already have it. Paul mocked up his prototype on my car at a tech seminar, it looked very well done. And like the rest of his stuff, its going to be top notch quality.

If my car doesn't hook now, I'm probably going to get one.
 
Originally posted by AintGoinSlo
True, but:

ATR sway bar: $180 + Good aftermarket LCAs: $250 = $440

With an ATR bar, aftermarket LCA's are a must so they dont get deformed by the ATR bar.

With this anti-roll, there is no contact with the LCA's so they may not be needed. I guess its a trade off.

True,

I guess it is just less painless when you are spending a little here and a little there. However Paul is a AWESOME vendor and his products Rock. Therfore thanks Paul i just spent another $450.00 on the GN :rolleyes: :D
 
Thanks for the comments guys!

Well, we haven't had anyone use the bar with the stk rear arms yet. Most already have upgraded them & are looking for more performance than what the stk or aftermarket swaybar provides. I can't exactly say what it would be like to do the swaybar with stk arms back there. The arms do some of the body-roll control themselves, and then the swaybar takes on the rest under more extreme conditions. If the arms are left as whimpy flexible units, then the swaybar will take on more (or all) of the body-roll job. It can do it, but not sure if all that stresss is best put into one area (vs shared by 2 areas). It would probably work fine & still be better, but can't say for sure. I would say put our greaseable bushings in the arms at least, because that helps in a different way.
Correcting body roll & evening out traction to both tires is not enough on it's own. The bushing upgrade will keep the pinion angle from changing excessively and stopping wheel hop & allow it to hook up. That is actually more important in drag racing than the swaybar benefits. And of course, if you are swapping bushings, you might as well box them up. The kit for uppers & lowers is only $39. I would put the rear upgrades in this order of importance:
1.) Bushings in lowers
2.) Bushings in uppers
3.) Swaybar/anti-roll setup
4.) Boxing the lowers
5.) Boxing the uppers
6.) Our new lowers (if wanting more or just nicer/easier/less work)
7.) Our new uppers (if wanting more or just nicer/easier/less work)

To compare prices, the $459 price on the bar is really very good. Look at the more common "wolfe" style setup:
It is $399, no bending involved, no heat treating, no powdercoating, no instructions, weaker 3/8" rod-ends, much harder welding install, noisy, binds under load, damages car on removal/rebuild, hard or impossible to get exhaust to fit, etc, etc, etc... (see website). It's like getting 5 times the setup (in performance, quality, and design) for only a little more. It's actually one of the most dramatic bolt-on's I have seen in a long time.

Bottom line, our bushings and our swaybar setup should be a real nice way to go if money is the main concern. I personally would highly recommend boxing the lowers minimum ($20 for plates) and put bolts in there (where the swaybar used to go) to further strengthen the lowers. They do most of the work, lifting and pushing. Get our bushing removal/install tool (or make one) to get the ones in the top ears of the rear too. Sucks big time any other way, just ask around. 5-10 minutes with the tool. Also, if getting in the 1.4's for 60 ft times, our frame brace kit is getting to be another "must". Hopefully BEFORE the lowers rip the stk bracket off & go thru the floor & take out the back seat! :eek:
 
Anti roll bar

To answer the original question there are only 3 bars currently on turbo Buicks. One is on Dave Fiscus's 8 second car and one is on Dave Bamford's 9 second car and Jim Pliss's 11 second car none of the cars have stock control arms. I think if you have boxed LCA's with urethane bushings it will work very well. It will work with stock arms and bushings but that is kind of defeating the purpose to some degree. You can use it with the stock ones, but to get the max out of the suspension you should eventually do it all. The main point to all of the parts Paul builds is to improve every aspect of the rear suspension. The trailing arms he builds are the strongest available, (the stock LCA deflect under load) the bushings are greaseable making them extremely free moving, with predictable bushing compression. These factors will maximize your ability to transfer weight, and plant the rear tires. I hope this made a little sence Paul and I had a very long weekend at the Fastest street car show at BG (returned at 5:15 this morning) you will be seeing a lot more of HRparts on those cars. Looks like Bishoff Racing Engines will now be an authorized dealer of HRpartsNstuff parts they really liked the quality of the parts and approched us at the show. Now if the powdercoater and the other suppliers will just get the stuff to us to build the bars everyone will be happy... Later Dave
 
You boys have it together. Customer service and great products.. Keep up the good work guys. It is nice to see vendors like this.


:cool: :cool:
 
Sounds awesome. Are you guys going to offer a polished/chome version for us show and go guys? Just curious
 
Post hog

I guess I should have finished the post before I let you know about the thread........... :D :D :D
 
G%D DA*NIT!!!!!!!!!!!

You HrParts-N-Stuff guys are something else. You come on here with your cutsy little cartoony name, touting your great products...better this better that - stronger this, stronger that Pretty looking and heavy duty to boot....






JUST WHEN I THINK I'VE NARROWED IT DOWN----







You come out with another top notch "must have" item....:D
expect my order soon guys
Great job...this is truely an innovative piece for the G-body.
 
You're getting hooked up buddy

Roy we are going to get you hooked up!!!!!!!! Keep me posted about the car and how the bar works for you.. You are in the first shipment as soon as these guys get us everything to complete them.. By the way NO ONE's credit cards have been charged for anything until they ship (just for the record).. Paul doing things the right way.
 
Paul,
I am going to be buying this new anti-roll bar soon. I am going to try it with stock LCA's and take the car to the track to see how much my 60' improve over having a factory stock rear-suspension (stock LCA's, stock UCA's, no airbags, stock springs, no drag shocks). The next mod after the anti roll bar will be your LCA's. I will go back to the track again and see if my 60's pick up more. The car should get into the 1.4's. It has been high 1.5's spining on all stock parts. My 60' is killing my e.t. I know these 2 parts will significantly reduce it.
 
Sounds like a good piece for the new build up. I allready have BMR LCA's. I think they would work well together. I've always been wary of welding in a wolfe bar. I'll be giving you guys a call!

-John
 
I think the bar looks great. I have been waiting for several months to see the final product and I am impressed. The one thing that is discouraging is the price. In a previous post the statement "it WON'T be $400-$600 for sure" was made and if I had known how much it would be I probably would have gone a different route. Now that I have waited and heard the price I am back to being undecided.
 
Originally posted by TRDirks
I think the bar looks great. I have been waiting for several months to see the final product and I am impressed. The one thing that is discouraging is the price. In a previous post the statement "it WON'T be $400-$600 for sure" was made and if I had known how much it would be I probably would have gone a different route. Now that I have waited and heard the price I am back to being undecided.

Well, in my attempt of getting all of you information on the swaybar project as early as possible, it looks like I said too much. I remember saying "won't be between $500-$600 range, even though it's worth it/should be", but I could have said the above quote as well at some time. When we first looked at doing this, it seemed like we would have no trouble beating the "wolfe" price of $399. That was exactly our intention. As we got into this and did some extensive research & testing, we found out differently.

The biggest change was that we had to use rod-ends instead of poly on the up-links. That took 8 pcs of poly at a couple bucks each up to 4 rod ends at many bucks each. Then we found that all rod ends are NOT created equal. Some are made from mild steel, some from alloy steel. Some are cheap 2-pc, some 3, some with teflon liners, some cheaply injected in, some with reinforcement, etc... Of course, we use only the best that is deemed necessary without "gold plating" stuff. We use premium rod ends with the good kevlar reinforced teflon liners, alloy steel, better 3 pc design, self lubricating, with custom fit for smooth lasting action. These added approx $50+ MY COST to the kit.

Then there was the powdercoating quote and the bending quote I had. They both doubled once they actually went to do the parts in qty, because they were a LOT harder to do than expected. To get the bends necessary to make it fit & look good, they actually had to modify their tooling specifically for this job. I basically had to buy their tooling to dedicate to this job to keep prices from going higher.

Then because of the rod-end design, our upper mounting plates went from a somewhat simple laser cut part to a multiple piece laser cut assy that gets welded, desplatted, machined, and deburred. This also over doubled the necessary mounting hardware and plating for them.

THEN, we found out the bar in it's "purchased" form is designed to allow bending/forming without damaging or weakening it. Well, it lost a little of it's "memory", and after working on the car, it came back to it's original shape all but a small percentage. This was enough to cause concerns/issues & needed resolved. We found that heat treating the bars fixed this "memory" problem quite well, and also added a little more strength to it. Of course, that added more cost to the kit, but it was needed.

THEN, the heat treat changed the bending angles slightly, and the bending tooling needed modifyied AGAIN to get it to come out right after HT. It also called for closer tolerances & added time/attention to the bending stage.

THEN, almost everything I have worked with since time began, gets cheaper in higher volumes. It works with machining, laser cutting, packing, etc, etc. BUT NOT when it comes to the bending, heat treating, and powdercoating (of course). I expected to save on those operations in the higher qty runs, but that quickly dissapeared.

So, I understand that we didn't quite hit our target price range. I hope now that you (all) might better understand why. We didn't just "pad" the price or decide to make more profit. We actually make a decent amount LESS profit, trying to keep the retail pricing as reasonable as possible. We ended up adding $80 to our target price, but had over $90 increase in our costs to make them, and lost some of the savings we were hoping to get on top of that.
These swaybars/anti-roll setups are jam-packed with quality, performance, and value. To be in line with what's out there currently, our retail price SHOULD have been in the $550-$600 range to be comparable. I still believe this is one of the most dramatic "bolt-on's" you can do to these cars, and one heck of a "bang for the buck".

PS- We also planned to do discounts on packages & other setups, but haven't had time to get it all together. Adding any other suspension component to the anti-roll setup will gain some savings. The more you put together, the more the savings will be. We actually planned to "grandfather" this deal back about 6 months for those that bought uppers/lowers already. Best way is to call in your order for special situations.

I usually don't like to explain myself or products like this, but I figured the people that have been following this for a while should know some of the details of what happened.
Thanks-
 
Hey Paul do you know the ETA of the bar if I ordered it at the Nationals. Thanks,
John McKinnon:)
 
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