I'm stumped- no start/run after cam breakin...

[SouthernCal GN]

Ok- set the engine to TDC, and removed/replaced the cam. Got it all back together, and did the break-in. Started fine, ran the break-in for about 30 minutes, then shut her down. Changed the oil and filter, and called it a night.

Yesterday- the car wouldn't start. Checked the cam sensor- looked ok. Pulled #1 plug and DS valve cover to verify TDC- all looked in order. Crank sensor- same. Finally got her to start, with hesitation, bucking, and backfiring- almost no idle, and runs rough above 1500 rpm.

Shut everything down in frustration, and called it a night.

Questions:

a) can the cam be installed 180 out? If possible, it wouldn't run, correct?

b) getting spark (it wants to run, but acts the same as if a distributor was WAY out.)- #1 plug is sooty and black (but not wet). Any clue?

c) Swapped cam sensor caps/coil pack w/module- still the same.


Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[VadersV6]

I really doubt the engine would run with the cam 180 out. How could you have done that anyway? You would have quite a few bent valves.
You need to pull the valve covers and check all the rockers while someone cranks the motor. After verifying all rockers are moving, replace all the plugs with new ones...dont clean...replace. Double/triple/quadruple check the firing order.
Double/triple/quadruple check the correct fuel injector connectors are on the correct fuel injectors.
What is your fuel presure?
What is your IAC reading and TPS reading?
Sure the MAF is plugged in? Have a translator?
Go through every single step of the cam swap in your mind and think of everything that was unplugged and plugged and disconnected and connected. Trace your footsteps.

 

[jstahl]

Check your crank sensor. Maybe it is mis-aligned?

 

[6=8]

I have some thoughts... See if this makes sense:

Since this was a camshaft break-in, I would suspect a cam shaft sensor before anything else. It all seems related to me... It had to be removed in order to replace the cam...

Since you got it started, however, it might be intermittent problem or an adjustment issue. Sounds like you might still be fighting it, and as you pointed out, "seems like a distributor is way out." Since this sensor is used to find TDC during start, and to fire the injectors after it is running, it all seems to indicate a cam-sensor issue.

If you can get it started again, leave her running and pull the plug on the sensor (ECM will go to batch-fire mode). If the car runs better, I would say something happened during the break-in that damaged the sensor, maybe even the gear or shaft that drives this sensor, meaning, a simple cap swap may not identify this issue.

Run the diagnostics and trace your steps, as VaderV6 suggested, but I would verify your camshaft sensor adjustment first. If you have that adjusting tool, that makes it simple. If not, the procedure (GNTTYPE.org) will get it done too.

While you are checking the camshaft sensor adjustment and rotating the engine by hand, pull the DS valve cover off and make sure the intake/exhaust valves are opening and closing at the correct time...

Hope this helps ya!

PS: I had a way worn camshaft sprocket a couple of years back, letting the cam/sensor vary quite a bit. When I unpluged the cap after starting the car, it ran a lot better, leading me to replace the timing chain.