Individual EGT Cylinder Data - 93/Meth

[The Granny]

Finally got my EGT kit squared away, and went to the track yesterday to run my car. The factors I believe are most noteworthy are Bison's Balanced Alky Plate, a 70mm throttle body, a hemco 70mm plenum, and a stock intake port matched to iron 8445 ported heads. This screenshot is at the highest *F recorded for any cylinder during the pass, and where I believe to be the highest deviation. Ignore EGT #4, it came unplugged during the pass. Green line is MAP. I don't have any correction enabled between the cylinders to try and correct the fueling from cylinder to cylinder, so this is the data in a raw format.

 

[achalmersman]

Nice. I really think I'll be doing EGT monitoring as well whenever I finish my new engine. I have Bisons plate but its sitting on the bench in the intake just waiting to be put on an engine lol

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[Boost231]

Nice, all within 100 deg. You can get them super tight. Mine are under 50deg difference on the current tune. Cal had mine right at 35deg on my old combo if I recall right

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[NY Twin Turbo]

I would like to see you bring up the RPM trace line up on the display.

An 88 degree differential is a damned good start! Even without alky, most are much worse.

But I would start by looking at your rpm in the area around 33. I would go into this area first to get a jump on the spreading trend that begins to happen from this point forward. I would begin adding about 3 percent more fuel to cylinder 3. Then I would take out about 3 percent from cylinder 5. I would leave 1,6,and 2 alone. The XFI only reads in 8 degree increments and those are all possibly within 16 degrees of each other.

Then I would carry those numbers until you get into the field RPM range between your shift points. Then I would bring the percentage up to a full 5 percent for cylinder 3, and subtract a full 5 percent from cylinder 5. Then carry these numbers all the way to your redline. this should get you close (maybe dead-on). But you will need to test and modify the tune from there.

Of course, we know nothing about cylinder 4 yet.

A little safety tip....... You may want to richen your AF when tuning individual cylinder correction just until you get it right. This is just in case you over shoot your negative correction into the danger area. You can put it back when you are confident you got them good.

Check out a little thread from a few months back. See the photos of my EGT's.

https://turbobuick.com/threads/individual-cylinder-monitoring.44954

 

[The Granny]

Nice. I really think I'll be doing EGT monitoring as well whenever I finish my new engine. I have Bisons plate but its sitting on the bench in the intake just waiting to be put on an engine lol

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Thank you, yeah I'm glad I have it hopefully I can use it to really dial in my combo.

Nice, all within 100 deg. You can get them super tight. Mine are under 50deg difference on the current tune. Cal had mine right at 35deg on my old combo if I recall right

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Yes, within 100*F without any corrections at that! I'm sure once I start messing with it I can really get them close to one another. Luckily I got my XFI from Cal, so I can ask his advice at any time. But I'm sure I could get this figured out myself, which I would prefer to do.

I would like to see you bring up the RPM trace line up on the display.

An 88 degree differential is a damned good start! Even without alky, most are much worse.

But I would start by looking at your rpm in the area around 33. I would go into this area first to get a jump on the spreading trend that begins to happen from this point forward. I would begin adding about 3 percent more fuel to cylinder 3. Then I would take out about 3 percent from cylinder 5. I would leave 1,6,and 2 alone. The XFI only reads in 8 degree increments and those are all possibly within 16 degrees of each other.

Then I would carry those numbers until you get into the field RPM range between your shift points. Then I would bring the percentage up to a full 5 percent for cylinder 3, and subtract a full 5 percent from cylinder 5. Then carry these numbers all the way to your redline. this should get you close (maybe dead-on). But you will need to test and modify the tune from there.

Of course, we know nothing about cylinder 4 yet.

A little safety tip....... You may want to richen your AF when tuning individual cylinder correction just until you get it right. This is just in case you over shoot your negative correction into the danger area. You can put it back when you are confident you got them good.

Check out a little thread from a few months back. See the photos of my EGT's.

https://turbobuick.com/threads/individual-cylinder-monitoring.44954

New screengrab with RPM traced, highlighted at the 33 mark. After this pass at the track, well before it actually, a couple red flags stood out to me. When I purged the alky kit, the light was red and then green. I purged it again and it was green, but it was the first time I had ever pushed the button and not got a green light immediately. Halfway to the 1/8th mile mark I started spinning, but I stayed in it.

Got back to my trailer and noticed I had a huge coolant leak on the hose to the overflow container. Washed it off, then loaded it up and headed out. This morning, the paint was faded right above where my pressure transducer and filter are all connected, for the alky kit. I think I may have sprung a leak there and that was the reason for the alky kit not going to green right away. I'll be checking it out next time I get back in town to work on it some more..

I'll definitely be starting with what you suggested to kick things off. Yes I have read through your thread, it was a while ago but I'll go back and reread through it. I believe my A/F ratio is already rich, and my timing is very conservative so I believe I'm safe to start tweaking the cylinder correction %'s. It shouldn't be too hard to get them dialed closer to one another given the small deviation I'm starting with. Just takes testing

 

[Jerryl]

The reason EGT is higher is likely because there is fuel burning in the exh port/header.

The M5 *may* be part of it, so you want to remove fuel for 3&5.

Also . . . Decrease the plug gap slightly in those cylinders. That *may* close the EGT gap.

 

[The Granny]

The reason EGT is higher is likely because there is fuel burning in the exh port/header.

The M5 *may* be part of it, so you want to remove fuel for 3&5.

Also . . . Decrease the plug gap slightly in those cylinders. That *may* close the EGT gap.

Good point Jerryl. I plan on testing out an M15 nozzle in the future instead of the M5 also, if i do that and 3&5 turn out even more rich than the others then that'd be the reason for sure. Either way i'd prefer to change the fuel rather than plug gap. It'd be a whole lot easier for me to keep plug gaps uniform and alter the fueling %'s than alter the plug gap and test it out. Unless it'd be a better approach for me to try and keep the fueling %'s uniform and alter plug gap? I don't think that's the case, but if it is let me know. I am by no means a professional and want to learn the best methods out there.


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[NY Twin Turbo]

The reason EGT is higher is likely because there is fuel burning in the exh port/header.

The M5 *may* be part of it, so you want to remove fuel for 3&5.

Also . . . Decrease the plug gap slightly in those cylinders. That *may* close the EGT gap.

Remove fuel from 3 and 5?
3 is the hottest, 5 is the coldest. Why treat them the same with the correction? Maybe reverse what I said, but treat them the same?
If his probes are 3/4 of an inch from the flange, I would bet the number 3 cylinder was the leanest.
Why play with plug gaps between cylinder by cylinder? That's the reason for the correction. If possible, It's to eliminate all of these do-dad tricks and get it even.

I believe my A/F ratio is already rich, and my timing is very conservative so I believe I'm safe to start tweaking the cylinder correction %'s.

Maybe, but you are already tipping the 1600 degree mark on cylinder 3. Remember your AF is an average of ALL 6 CYLINDERS. For all you know, The lean cylinder could be 14:1.
Just be careful.

One more thing. When driving in your normal driving range on the street, try to hold steady RPM pulls for a second or two before you begin a recording. Take note and adjust correction at these RPM points throughout the map. Try to keep one or more cylinders in the middle temperature range correction free. These are your baselines. The better your EGT's are before going into a boosted pull the easier it will be for the XFI to keep them there.

Then once you you are happy, try to walk away! Because when driving normally, you lift and stab all over the place and every time you lift correction gets shut off. This makes constant equality impossible. You just want to know that if you are cruising and some dick-head in a Challenger pulls up on you, that you will be able to punch it and they will be as good as it needs to be.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

Just taking another look. That cylinder #2 is going to need some work down low.

 

[The Granny]

Remove fuel from 3 and 5?
3 is the hottest, 5 is the coldest. Why treat them the same with the correction? Maybe reverse what I said, but treat them the same?
If his probes are 3/4 of an inch from the flange, I would bet the number 3 cylinder was the leanest.
Why play with plug gaps between cylinder by cylinder? That's the reason for the correction. If possible, It's to eliminate all of these do-dad tricks and get it even.


Maybe, but you are already tipping the 1600 degree mark on cylinder 3. Remember your AF is an average of ALL 6 CYLINDERS. For all you know, The lean cylinder could be 14:1.
Just be careful.

One more thing. When driving in your normal driving range on the street, try to hold steady RPM pulls for a second or two before you begin a recording. Take note and adjust correction at these RPM points throughout the map. Try to keep one or more cylinders in the middle temperature range correction free. These are your baselines. The better your EGT's are before going into a boosted pull the easier it will be for the XFI to keep them there.

Then once you you are happy, try to walk away! Because when driving normally, you lift and stab all over the place and every time you lift correction gets shut off. This makes constant equality impossible. You just want to know that if you are cruising and some dick-head in a Challenger pulls up on you, that you will be able to punch it and they will be as good as it needs to be.

ll measure the distances next time i'm in town to work on the car, might be a couple of weeks though with school kicking off again this Tuesday. If you're running 93/meth like i am, i agree that i'm running lean. Could be because of a potential meth leak in my system which is why i suspect the light going from red to green when i hit the test button rather than green right away like it had been, or a faulty pump. Either way ill make sure it's square there to eliminate those as variables.

Thank you for the tip, i was thinking of just making hits from a dig on the street but i'll do that instead it seems more practical.

But my mom drives a challenger, so i can't think they're all dick heads! Lol. I get what you're saying though. I haven't had too much time to dive into the logs yet, but i do plan on making sometime this week to. Ill get a plan written down and put it into action. Thank you for taking the time to help me out i really appreciate it.


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[NY Twin Turbo]

ll measure the distances next time i'm in town to work on the car, might be a couple of weeks though with school kicking off again this Tuesday. If you're running 93/meth like i am, i agree that i'm running lean. Could be because of a potential meth leak in my system which is why i suspect the light going from red to green when i hit the test button rather than green right away like it had been, or a faulty pump. Either way ill make sure it's square there to eliminate those as variables.

Thank you for the tip, i was thinking of just making hits from a dig on the street but i'll do that instead it seems more practical.

But my mom drives a challenger, so i can't think they're all dick heads! Lol. I get what you're saying though. I haven't had too much time to dive into the logs yet, but i do plan on making sometime this week to. Ill get a plan written down and put it into action. Thank you for taking the time to help me out i really appreciate it.


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Yes, I only run 93 and alky. Even at the track. And my car is always in the same trim and has just one tune and one tune only. I tweek on it constantly but it only gets better. This way it will run exactly or better than what it has already, on any day of the week all the time, on the street or track. And that's why I don't own a truck or trailer.

Someday it might come back to bite me in the ass. But not yet.

BTW, take a look at the transducer while someone hits the test button. It may be leaking at the plastic plug to brass housing joint.

 

[Jerryl]

I knew this was going to backfire when I posted. Point I was trying to make is:
Unburned fuel.

Yes, plug gap is *not* the way to do it with XFI, but it may be a way for non-xfi.
Should have also read a little closer without my head in a fog. Surely not 3 &5.

This is why I rely on an expert for guidance. Haha. Sorry for the bad info.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

I knew this was going to backfire when I posted. Point I was trying to make is:
Unburned fuel.

Yes, plug gap is *not* the way to do it with XFI, but it may be a way for non-xfi.
Should have also read a little closer without my head in a fog. Surely not 3 &5.

This is why I rely on an expert for guidance. Haha. Sorry for the bad info.

No back fire. Just double checking on your response. Maybe there was another way to skin a cat I didn't know about. Any bit of info that you or anyone would like to add, I definitely want to hear it. And about plug gap.....Yes, there is definitely a place for good old fashion plug reading and auto tuning.

I'm no Cal Hartline. Don't really know him, spoke to him a few times, bought a product from him, exchanged some text with him here on this forum, and I hope I don't have to rely on him. My only experience comes from the work I have done on only one combination. My car alone. I don't know how much this will help others. But I try.

It seems to work for me so far without too many setbacks or even minor catastrophes. I gathered info from whoever I can, try to sort through the bullsh!t, and apply what's relevant. But then again, I'm a very cautious tuner. Some would even go as far as to describe me as a female body part (usually my closest friends).

 

[The Granny]

No back fire. Just double checking on your response. Maybe there was another way to skin a cat I didn't know about. Any bit of info that you or anyone would like to add, I definitely want to here it. And about plug gap.....Yes, there is definitely a place for good old fashion plug reading and auto tuning.

I'm no Cal Hartline. Don't really know him, spoke to him a few times, bought a product from him, exchanged some text with him here on this forum, and I hope I don't have to rely on him. My only experience comes from the work I have done on only one combination. My car alone. I don't know how much this will help others. But I try.

It seems to work for me so far without too many setbacks or even minor catastrophes. I gathered info from whoever I can, try to sort through the bullsh!t, and apply what's relevant. But then again, I'm a very cautious tuner. Some would even go as far as to describe me as a female body part (usually my closest friends).

I'm in the same boat as you, i don't want to have to rely on anyone to tune my car. If another individual can get it nailed down then i don't see why i can't also. However, with their years of experience tuning our cars i won't hesitate to ask them if i feel i'm stuck.

Anywho, i really started this thread as a reference for anyone with a similar air and fuel distribution set up as mine to look at. I will be sure to update it with what correction factors work for me when i get it nailed down.




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[marleyskater420]

Congrats again on your ET yesterday Johnny!!!

 

[Mr.Spool]

Finally got my EGT kit squared away, and went to the track yesterday to run my car. The factors I believe are most noteworthy are Bison's Balanced Alky Plate, a 70mm throttle body, a hemco 70mm plenum, and a stock intake port matched to iron 8445 ported heads. This screenshot is at the highest *F recorded for any cylinder during the pass, and where I believe to be the highest deviation. Ignore EGT #4, it came unplugged during the pass. Green line is MAP. I don't have any correction enabled between the cylinders to try and correct the fueling from cylinder to cylinder, so this is the data in a raw format.

You better get those egts down.no cushion there.

 

[Mr.Spool]

I knew this was going to backfire when I posted. Point I was trying to make is:
Unburned fuel.

Yes, plug gap is *not* the way to do it with XFI, but it may be a way for non-xfi.
Should have also read a little closer without my head in a fog. Surely not 3 &5.

This is why I rely on an expert for guidance. Haha. Sorry for the bad info.

most likely not enough fuel

 

[Mr.Spool]

Finally got my EGT kit squared away, and went to the track yesterday to run my car. The factors I believe are most noteworthy are Bison's Balanced Alky Plate, a 70mm throttle body, a hemco 70mm plenum, and a stock intake port matched to iron 8445 ported heads. This screenshot is at the highest *F recorded for any cylinder during the pass, and where I believe to be the highest deviation. Ignore EGT #4, it came unplugged during the pass. Green line is MAP. I don't have any correction enabled between the cylinders to try and correct the fueling from cylinder to cylinder, so this is the data in a raw format.

How fast did you run?

 

[The Granny]

You better get those egts down.no cushion there.

most likely not enough fuel

How fast did you run?

I think i may have had a meth leak or my pump is starting to go out. Going to determine which one it is and get it sorted out before i run the car again. I ran 10.33@129 this pass


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[Mr.Spool]

I think i may have had a meth leak or my pump is starting to go out. Going to determine which one it is and get it sorted out before i run the car again. I ran 10.33@129 this pass


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I would log and keep a close look at pressure.both gas and methanol and see the relationship to the egts.that will point you in the right direction.