Installing BHJ Balancer

[MSDGN]

What's the best way to install a BHJ balancer...since it's a press fit I'm assuming a special install tool needs to be used...I'm sure some have used a hammer but that's not an option for me...is there a tool readily available...also how do you make sure the key in the crank snout is lined up with the slot in the balancer before pressing it on...if it's off when it starts going on there's no way the balancer can be moved on the crank to line it up...I would guess you have to take it back off and start again...any tips/hints to installing this thing...

 

[Reginald West]

The only 2 ways I have I know of short of beating the snot out it is to heat the balancer to about 300 degrees and use a pair welding gloves to put it on. You might want to talk to Neal Stewart about this process he was the one who told me about doing it this way. He is 750hpv6 on this board. The only other way I know of is to have the hole in the balancer honed out a few thousandths to fit the crank.

REG

 

[supergn6]

you should talk to nick mchale also az gn,he's on the board built my motor i have the same balancer and a sfi flywheel

 

[Nick Micale]

Do NOT heat or use a hammer on this balancer!

A tool is made to do this. Big block Chevys require an installer. Do not try to put it on using the crank bolt either.

If you hone the bore, it can wobble and destroy the crank/balancer.

 

[MSDGN]

I really didn't like the heat idea either...I checked and installer kits are available from several different places...

 

[MeanBuicks]

Originally posted by Reginald West
The only other way I know of is to have the hole in the balancer honed out a few thousandths to fit the crank.

Bad advice there! Since you're dealing with a device that is more than a balancer (it's also a vibration damper), it needs an interference fit to properly function. The damper squelches vibration energy by converting it to heat and to do this effectively, it must be firmly affixed to the crank snout. The key is there merely for timing mark/balance counterweight alignment and not made to transmit energy.

 

[tminer]

Technically, it should be honed to provide for a .001-.0015 interference fit with the crank snout. By default the damper is sized for the nominal factory snout diameter specification. This is per the instructions that came with my new unit.

Jegs has a nice universal install & removal tool.

Tom

 

[Reginald West]

All I say is that I know of a number of cars with them installed with the 2 methods I decirbed with no problems.

 

[Race Jace]

Originally posted by MeanBuicks
Bad advice there! Since you're dealing with a device that is more than a balancer (it's also a vibration damper), it needs an interference fit to properly function. The damper squelches vibration energy by converting it to heat and to do this effectively, it must be firmly affixed to the crank snout. The key is there merely for timing mark/balance counterweight alignment and not made to transmit energy.

IT will be affixed firmly to the crank snout if you tighten the bolt. I would not advise running it without the bolt weither it is a interference fit or slip fit. In my experience, honning it to have .001 clearance doesn't hurt a thing.

 

[750H.P.V6]

Scott,

I like to heat mine to slide it on part way and then seat it by using the stock crank bolt. I know Jeff Rand has the same balancer and actually had his new crank cut with an additional key way to aid in aligning the balancer for installation. I know he uses a balancer installation tool. I'm not sure who makes it.

One other thing to check it to be sure the interference between the crank snout and the balancer isn't excessive. I actually had to hone mine slightly to get the .001- .0015" press fit I wanted. I hope this helps.

Neal

 

[disco stu]

I just went and bought a longer bolt. Line up the key way and draw it up until the real crank bolt will reach threads. It costed about $2.00 for this "special tool".

 

[Jeff Rand]

Originally posted by 750H.P.V6
Scott,

I like to heat mine to slide it on part way and then seat it by using the stock crank bolt. I know Jeff Rand has the same balancer and actually had his new crank cut with an additional key way to aid in aligning the balancer for installation. I know he uses a balancer installation tool. I'm not sure who makes it.

One other thing to check it to be sure the interference between the crank snout and the balancer isn't excessive. I actually had to hone mine slightly to get the .001- .0015" press fit I wanted. I hope this helps.

Neal

Scott,
You can buy the installation tool from Summit. I think Sears or NAPA might have one also. Get the unversial tool which will fit all the popular crank bolts and balancer center openings. Neil is correct, I had Crower add an extra key for a referance (I do not know how you would attempt a press fit and referance a key that you can not see). Also in order to get the .001" press fit, I had to remove .001" off the crank that I am using. All this was done prior to getting the assembly balanced.
Good Luck,
Jeff

 

[Otto J]

Bob at RPE who is one the best Buick V6 guys in the country, Does as stated above, were it is honed with a brank home within a few thousand(not sure exact numbers)> I was then told to put hte balancer in the oven for a few minutes at 350-400 and it slid on up to hte key and i used a balancer installer(i own one)to finish the install, It would NOT slide on at all until it was heated,
Hope this helps

 

[lazaris]

Since your heating it to install I'm curious how hard it is to take off with a puller when you need to ?

 

[MSDGN]

I've already had the crank balanced(twice actually) therefore the machine shop has had the balancer on/off 2 times so I'm assuming it fits OK as is...I asked the guy at the shop if he had any problems with it...he said "No"...my main concern is lining up the crank key with the slot once I start pressing it on...there ain't no way I can turn the balancer on the crank once it's started so I would have to take it off and start again...the shop actually must have run into this problem because I could see a little damage to the slot in the balancer where the key first starts to go in...they didn't have it lined up right but it looks as though they still tried to press it on...put a little gouge in the slot about 1/4" long...I filed it to get the burrs off...then test fit a stock balancer to make sure it was OK...seems OK but I want to install the BHJ myself just to make sure...I drew reference lines from the edges of the crank key to the end of the crank snout...just have to line it up and start to press it on slow...I think the heating idea would be the easiest but I just don't feel comfortable doing that...for such an expensive part I would hate to heat it too much and distort it...especially the interrupter rings...I did get a loaner balancer installer kit from AutoZone...has 8 adapters but all of them look to be too small...biggest one is 3/4 x 16...what is the thread size/pitch of the balancer bolt...

 

[Otto J]

Another thing i have seen done, is to have someone machine hte crank for another keyway just ahead of it. SO it is lined up from the get go

 

[norbs]

The instructions say to hone the balancer to get a .001-,0015 interference fit. I would go with the .001 fit should go on fairly easy if heated.