low oil presssure

[WeSS]

I am thinking of purchasing a new front cover with high volume abilities. Any suggestions on what I should do?

 

[Way2QWK]

how low is low. What is the confirmed pressure at hot idle in gear

 

[onebadv6]

what should the oil press be at idle I have the high vol cover and pump
my press at idle every thing up to temp
between 35 and 40 psi when running its at 60psi set by the spring in the pump
and im running a 4 pass aftermarket oil cooler 3/4 inch tube
hey that brings me to this question should the oil press drop at high rpm
@4500 to 6000 the oil press drops from 60psi to @ 45psi
60psi being my max any other time it is at 60

 

[WarpSpeed]

I'd try a booster plate before a whole new front cover. They do work for uping oil psi

ps: 35-40 hot idle is way to high, you're wasting too much horsepower pumping oil.

 

[Red Regal T]

Originally posted by onebadv6

hey that brings me to this question should the oil press drop at high rpm
@4500 to 6000 the oil press drops from 60psi to @ 45psi
60psi being my max any other time it is at 60

Engine coolant temperature at normal does not mean your oil is hot. After a 75mph run on the freeway for 5 to 10 miles, on a hot day, now that's hot oil. What's your idle pressure then? Also, you're oil cooler may be too big and that's why your oil pressure is dropping off. Your oil pressure is where, HOT, at 2000 rpm? Another thing, when you let your foot off the gas and your coasting, depending what pressure relief spring is in the oil pump, you're pressure will be higher with the stiff spring. When you resume speed by pushing on the accelerator, the oil pressure will drop.

 

[fuzzyGN]

hey that brings me to this question should the oil press drop at high rpm
@4500 to 6000 the oil press drops from 60psi to @ 45psi
60psi being my max any other time it is at 60

This is usually not a good thing. It is typically one of two things that makes this happen. Either the oil level is too low or your oil pump is pumping the oil pan level down faster than the oil can return. That happened to me once and found the oil level was low.

 

[Red Regal T]

Originally posted by onebadv6

and im running a 4 pass aftermarket oil cooler 3/4 inch tube
hey that brings me to this question should the oil press drop at high rpm
@4500 to 6000 the oil press drops from 60psi to @ 45psi
60psi being my max any other time it is at 60

Oh, I assume you mean your excellerating from 4500 to 6000 and your pressure is dropping off. I kind of breezed past that. That doesn't sound good. That means your pump isn't supplying enough oil at WOT, or it is and your bearing clearances are too great. I had that problem once and the problem was a broken main cap.

 

[NC87GN]

Oil pressure at idle on my rebuilt motor is 20-22 psi HOT in D. Cold at startup is 72-75psi. Main brg clearances are between .0015"-.0020". I did port match the stock timing cover and part of the oil pump to reduce mismatched alignment. Talking to several buick v6 engine builders high oil pressure for a stock motor turning 5K is not needed. If you have 10 psi at idle so be it, just as long as when you hit the accelerator the oil pressure rises linearly with RPM. Just my .02..

Mike Banas
87GN

 

[steveX]

Originally posted by WarpSpeed

ps: 35-40 hot idle is way to high, you're wasting too much horsepower pumping oil.

I have never hear if such a thing. How much HP can a HV oil consume?.

If i do understand it correctly. Oil pressure is very,very important.

"Oil and Oil pressure is the life blood of any engine"

I will think the more the better. after all you need good oil pressure cause you want a thin layer of oil between all bearing when the engine is running. Has the RPM increase so should the Oil pressure. You have to understand has the engine speed increase the ability of parts coming in contact (damage bearing) with each other are more likly. the more oil pressure the better. this will cushion any parts that try to contact each other. Has for the low oil pressure at high RPM i will think the pan is running low on oil. have you consider a oil pan with a baffle?. you will be amaze of how much oil attach it self to the crankshaft when rotate at high rpm`s. you should also check you oil lever. also try ading a additional quart of oil to the pan and see if the problem goes away.

 

[WeSS]

oil pressure

ok I am thinking about buying a booster plate & if this works then I am buying another 109 block & getting ready for a build up.

 

[onebadv6]

thanks for the replys Im new to the GN world even though I have owened this car for 5 years and only 2 of the 5 it was being driven. any chance I get I learn about it
I have learned more from this site in 2 months from just reading.
the knowledge base here is awesome
Unfortunitly the engine builder I chose didnt have much knowledge or took advantage of me
from what i read here I should not be having the problems im having
belive it or not the only race this car sees is an occasional
street race never been down the track somthing is all ways broken
and from day one it has leaked every type of fluid and i have had nothing but TROUBLE
I dont deal with the engine builder anymore if it breaks I will try to fix it. If it breaks due to my ignorance then I learn from it right hell look at the price of college I would still come out cheeper rebuilding this car many many times

 

[onebadv6]

I have tride an extra quart of oil no luck got a nice oil stain on the drive from that (replaced the oil pan gaskit) I have replaced the gaskit that is between the oil pick up tube and block no luck I do have a new thrust plate and that did pick the idle press up a little
but the oil press still droped at high rpm
the hot oil part the temp on the bank sign down here said 97 the other day after driving 1.5 houre the oil press at idle was @ 30 35 psi and 60psi below 4500 rpm

I do have the PTE oil filter relocate kit my second one becouse the first one was assembled in reverse from PTE learned that the hard way took me 1500 miles to trash a crank and all the bearings this is how I learned that a oil filter has what you call a anti drain back valve
but any way would that cause oil press lose at high rpm's

and i have got bad crankcase press blows oil out my breather stacks been that way from day one

 

[Red Regal T]

Originally posted by onebadv6
after driving 1.5 houre the oil press at idle was @ 30 35 psi and 60psi below 4500 rpm

I do have the PTE oil filter relocate kit

Oil pressure seems good except for your described problem. There's a couple things you could do. You could drop the pan and this time check your main bearings. If they need to be replaced, replace them with the engine in the car. Takes a few hours. Worn main bearings would cause the pressure loss you describe. Another thing you could do is take off the PTE turbo saver and try the stock setup.

 

[onebadv6]

sence the last rebuild I may have 5000 miles on the engine
If the engine builder put new bearings in it what would make them wear out so quickly

I cant run a stock config on the oil filter my turbo will not get oiled there is no telling where the stock oil line is for the turbo

what about wrong size bearings say the crank was supposed to be macnined down 10/10 but it was machined a little too much I know that would increase the clearence but would or could that be my problem

how about the bad blowing oil out of the stacks been that from the begining

the reason for this question I have heard a lot of bad news about the shop that did the work (this is my kind of luck)

how can I check the clearence

or how about list of a couple of good honest engine builders/machine shops down here in SC

 

[Red Regal T]

Another thing you could do is cut open the oil filter, unravel the paper element, and check for metal in it. As far as eliminating the turbosaver, those lines are available from the vendors to go back to stock. I had some bearing problems due to what appeared to be oil starvation with my last rebuild, and was running the saver, and I suspect that caused my oiling problem. I replaced the main bearings more than once since the rebuild. I'm not sure, but I removed the turbo saver and made eight passes to 110 mph at the track and didn't damage my bearings. You don't have to check your clearances on the bearings if you pull the pan. When you pull a cap, and if they're worn, you'll see copper. Or if there is copious amounts of metal and copper in your pan. Really though, you have pretty good pressure at idle so that might indicate your still OK. Easiest job is remove the remote filter assy. first. Do nothing, and you'll be running over the crank.