what oil weight do you use with lucas oil stabilizer in a gn because i see that 20w50 seems like the engine strains and turbo spools slower than with 10w30 weight and my gas mileage was slower with 20w50 my car was really fast with the thinner oil
lucas and oil weight
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It seems you've answered you own question. Per your listed results, why would you use it?
I actually work for a Market Research firm in the Automotive Aftermarket, and can tell you that Lucas Oil Additives are the fastest growing product in their respective segments. They spend a lot of money in advertising, which obviously pays off, per your proclaimed interest in using it in your GN.
However, per your statements, I don't understand why you would use something that seems to hinder your performance, and requires you to make other changes to accomodate the negative affects?
I've owned TR's since 1991, and from the day I bought all three of them, they got a fresh start with Mobil 1 10W30 or 15W50, depending on motor characteristics. I run 10W30 on a fresh, tight motor. I run 15W50 on a looser, more "tired" motor. I've had excellent results with both, and it becomes apparent when I tear the motor apart for a rebuild, and the thing is clean and sludge free inside.
Anyway, I think Lucas makes good products to meet certain needs, however, I don't think I'd change oil weights to compensate for the product, due to "it" hurting performance.
Run straight synthetic (Mobil 1 or Amsoil are my recommendations), and be done with it.
I actually work for a Market Research firm in the Automotive Aftermarket, and can tell you that Lucas Oil Additives are the fastest growing product in their respective segments. They spend a lot of money in advertising, which obviously pays off, per your proclaimed interest in using it in your GN.
However, per your statements, I don't understand why you would use something that seems to hinder your performance, and requires you to make other changes to accomodate the negative affects?
I've owned TR's since 1991, and from the day I bought all three of them, they got a fresh start with Mobil 1 10W30 or 15W50, depending on motor characteristics. I run 10W30 on a fresh, tight motor. I run 15W50 on a looser, more "tired" motor. I've had excellent results with both, and it becomes apparent when I tear the motor apart for a rebuild, and the thing is clean and sludge free inside.
Anyway, I think Lucas makes good products to meet certain needs, however, I don't think I'd change oil weights to compensate for the product, due to "it" hurting performance.
Run straight synthetic (Mobil 1 or Amsoil are my recommendations), and be done with it.
The Blob
Amorphous... totally
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I would never, ever, ever, ever use any kind of oil additive in my car. You can search the web and find enough about this subject to keep you reading for days. Here's one specifically about Lucas...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
JoeNational
Uh oh.. Look who got ALKY
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So what your saying is when you do an oil change dont add anything like an oil treatment like STP or something like that? what about mixing synthectic with reg blend? like 3 syn and 2 reg or vice versa.
The Blob
Amorphous... totally
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Correct. Just good oil, changed on a regular basis.
No problem as long as the viscosities are the same. Those "synthetic blend" oils you can buy off the shelf are just some ratio of regular and synthetic oils already mixed.
turbobuickman
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Can't go wrong with a fully synthetic Mobil 1. I use 15w50 in my 80,000 mile engine. Most mechanics I've talked to reccomend Mobil 1.
Yep, there's nothing that beats a good synthetic. And, of the synthetics, Amsoil would rate #1, but is very hard to find except in certain geographical areas these days.
Therefore, my recommendation remains with Mobil 1. I've just seen too much good results from it, and as mentioned, the internal appearance of motors I've torn down that have only used it. They look great!
On our cars, we rely heavily on superior lubrication protection. Especially when you spend $700-$1000 on a good turbo, and we're already prone to cam failure in rebuilds using aftermarket cams.
Therefore, why would you be cheap with the one item that can help insure against such failure? Most of us put very little overall mileage on these cars anymore, so it really shouldn't be a financial question.
IMO, it just makes sense to spend $5 a quart for synthetic oil protection, a couple of times a year, as opposed to saving that extra $20 or so dollars annually...
But, if nothing else, you'd do well to at least use a synth-blend.
Therefore, my recommendation remains with Mobil 1. I've just seen too much good results from it, and as mentioned, the internal appearance of motors I've torn down that have only used it. They look great!
On our cars, we rely heavily on superior lubrication protection. Especially when you spend $700-$1000 on a good turbo, and we're already prone to cam failure in rebuilds using aftermarket cams.
Therefore, why would you be cheap with the one item that can help insure against such failure? Most of us put very little overall mileage on these cars anymore, so it really shouldn't be a financial question.
IMO, it just makes sense to spend $5 a quart for synthetic oil protection, a couple of times a year, as opposed to saving that extra $20 or so dollars annually...
But, if nothing else, you'd do well to at least use a synth-blend.
Well, if you have leaks, it isn't because of the oil you are using. It's because your have gasket/seal failure.
However, the heavier weight oil will be less prone to leak, but, it certainly won't prevent it from happening completely. If you're wanting to resolve leak issues with an oil product, then I guess you should go on and just use pure STP, Motor Honey, or straight gear lube 80-140...
Not trying to sound silly, but, if you want to stop the leaks,,, then you need to be willing to address the mechanical issues first, and fix 'em. There is NO "pour in" solution for mechanical failures. You may "band-aid" the problem temporarily, but you won't solve it.
Where are you leaking from? How old are your gaskets/seals? What's your mileage on them all? There are some common areas to look at, such as valve covers, rear main (very common), and front/back of intake. All of these are leaking points. And, as many have said in the past, "if you have a Buick 3.8 Turbo that isn't leaking oil, then it must not have any oil in it..."
As mentioned earlier, I've run Mobil-1 15W50 with absolutely no problems on a semi-race motor I had built with loose tolerances. It helped prevent blow-by, per the thicker weight, yet it did not hinder any performance of the turbo or other rotating assemblies.
However, the heavier weight oil will be less prone to leak, but, it certainly won't prevent it from happening completely. If you're wanting to resolve leak issues with an oil product, then I guess you should go on and just use pure STP, Motor Honey, or straight gear lube 80-140...
Not trying to sound silly, but, if you want to stop the leaks,,, then you need to be willing to address the mechanical issues first, and fix 'em. There is NO "pour in" solution for mechanical failures. You may "band-aid" the problem temporarily, but you won't solve it.
Where are you leaking from? How old are your gaskets/seals? What's your mileage on them all? There are some common areas to look at, such as valve covers, rear main (very common), and front/back of intake. All of these are leaking points. And, as many have said in the past, "if you have a Buick 3.8 Turbo that isn't leaking oil, then it must not have any oil in it..."
As mentioned earlier, I've run Mobil-1 15W50 with absolutely no problems on a semi-race motor I had built with loose tolerances. It helped prevent blow-by, per the thicker weight, yet it did not hinder any performance of the turbo or other rotating assemblies.
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