Minimum oil press for turbo to live

[ThikStik]

Since im at 10psi idle, I got to ask. (it does go up to 45 with rpm).
And 3rd turbo in 1300 miles is smoking at idle like they all have.

Anyone know a good priest for a GN exorcism?!!!

Thanks, boost on

 

[Red Regal T]

I like the idea of the turbo saver to feed filtered oil to the turbo at all times. I have one on my car since I bought a new TE 44 about a year and a half ago and have had no problems with it. However, I found another way to protect my turbo from possible contamination. I'm going to remove my turbo-saver and purchase a remote oil filter fixture. Summit sells a permacool unit with and inlet and outlet for $15. It takes a 3/4" 16 thread oil filter. The fixture will mount to the turbo shield bracket. I'll run the steel oil supply line that normally goes directly to the turbo, to the fixture inlet and connect the outlet line from the fixture to the turbo oil inlet. Then, I'll have a filter exclusively for the turbo which takes up a lot less room and is much simpler than the turbo-saver and I can go back to crossthreading a big oil filter at the stock oil filter location.

 

[Buick Beginner]

Just .02 worth

Call Limit Engineering and talk to John Craig, he probably knows what a turbo is capable of living on oil pressure wise. His number is 928-453-7321. John is like a "Yoda" of sorts with turbos. - BB

 

[turbosam6]

If I remember correctly, you said your clearances on the new motor were too big, causing the low oil psi. One thing to consider is, if the excessive clearances cause bearing or crank damage, the debris will go through the turbo and cause damage. I highly doubt your oil psi itself is hurting the turbo. Many stock Tr's have similar pressure.

 

[JDEstill]

Check out this thread for some info:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=85510&referrerid=908

FWIW, Corky Bell's book says at idle 5 psi and 0.1 gpm is enough, and at max load 25 psi and 0.5 gpm is enough.

John

 

[ThikStik]

Yea guys,
Here's the post mortem on 2 turbos rebuilds. My same ole te 44 Turbo was on motor b4 rebuild. It lasted 200 miles, gave idle smoke. It was figured the bad cam lobe/and rebuilt motor trauma took it out.
It was rebuilt and lasted about 200 miles, the turbine wheel touched into housing bore., and profusely smoked on idle. I bought the PTE remote filter and then put turbo rebuild 2 on-this time with new center section. It stopped idle smoking. I figured I was finally ok. Within 400 miles idle smoke is back. This time , I see no oil in down pipe area (like there was before), and there is a slight film in up pipe, throttle bore. I dont think enough to smoke out at idle. I think my turbo rebuilder is slacking off.
But one scary thing: # 1 cylinder had a juicy piston. All others were dry, so I removed the valve spring on that cyl to look at seal-it was fine, although there is alot of slack in stem to guide on these old but rebuilt heads. Thing is, this motor for a few miles did not smoke-that tends to rule out motor.


This has not been meant to be. Guys , even the paint I used on engine during rebuild was not blended correctly. It came out freakin clear with just a tad of pigment!!-shook up,yes!! Bought another can, and it went on fine. The knock chime that I bought went off and STAYED ON all the way home. It , as well as the replacement are defective. Will the 3rd one work?!! Why would it!

This engine does not leak at the rear main-that must mean it will be coming out soon!. Murphy's Law 5323-section84.4.
Sorry for rant.

 

[ThikStik]

JDEStill,
That thread was very helpful-thanks

 

[ThikStik]

Red Regal,
So youre just wanting to get rid of the bulky PTE turbo saver? I wonder if your new setup will lower turbo oil psi a tad?
CYA

 

[Red Regal T]

Yes, I'm eliminating the turbo saver in favor of a smaller, cheaper, device. I'm sure it wouldn't effect the amount of oil to the turbo. 1/4" steel line is the stock oil feed to the turbo. Now, the 1/4" line will go to a filter adapter with a 1/4" line coming out directly into the turbo oil feed fitting. This is a good, inexpensive, device for anyone who has no separate protection from metal contamination for their turbo such as a turbo-saver. Engine failures, for whatever reasons, spun bearings, wiped cams, or whatever, are bad enough, but to also have to buy or rebuild a turbo because of them, really sucks.