moving battery

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turbo buicks

ESADAH!!!
Joined
Jun 13, 2002
Messages
2,936
i looked at the battery relocation ho-to on gnttype.org and it looks too complicated for just moving a bettry. wouldnt you just move it to the trunk and run extensions on the existing pos. and neg. wires to the battery and ground it on the frame somewhere around the trunk?
 
Depends if you want to be NHRA legal for tracks. If you do you need a cutoff switch and I believe a sealed box. For the wires, if you try and extend the the current battery cables you're asking for trouble. That small of wires going to cause you problems. I'm running a 1/0 positive cable to the battery, a 2 gage negative from the frame to the battery, and another ground from the engine to the frame.
 
i just want the battery in the trunk. im only going to the track a little bit and they dont do tech inspection at the test and tune. why is using the current cables bad? do i basically rewire the whole thing?
 
what is it you expect to gain moving the battery?......if you are running in the 10 sec and down range, you may pick up a couple of .001's

if you don't do it right, you won't be able to race at a "real" track and on a less than warm day, your car won't start
 
if i can relocate the battery i can run tubing for a Power Stroke intercooler w/o cutting up my car. im in florida it doesnt get real cold here. more rear weight is always better for a RWD car than a FWD car i would guess.
 
you think you aren't "cutting up your car" by installing a Ford front mount I/C??.......I think it just went a notch below "collector status"
 
what do you mean by this? if i dont cut up my car to install a PS intercooler and i decide to sell it someday i can remove it and put in a stock intercooler. your car runs high 10s but ill bet its an all original collectors car isnt it? BTW, if i did cut up my car installing it, all the cut piieces are available in any 80s cutlass, regal, etc. maybe i should keep it stock so when i sell it the next person can enjoy it, why should i have all the fun?
 
my point exactly.....if you relocate the battery........do it right!

(my car has 55K original miles, and certainly looks stock, everything works, and the battery is where it started out...it just goes a little faster than your average street car...)
 
ok i see what you're saying about the car looking stock and what not but what did you mean by saying my car goes below collector status by installing a PS FMIC? if not cutting is done it can easily be converted back to stock correct?
 
Turbo Buicks...Not sure if you've had a couple of beer tonight or what....
First off, it really doesn't sound like you have a good plan for relocating your battery to the trunk. Second, AZGN is a well respected guy with a beautiful car that flies. He is merely trying to make you think twice before cutting up your car for a Ford intercooler installation...quit trying to turn it into a pissing match.
Jim
 
check with M.A.D. Enterprises in calif-they sell everything you need to mount the battery in the trunk with complete wiring diagrams and explanations of how to make it legal and better with less amperage loss.HTH
 
jimn8or- i am too young to drink:D i didnt know if he was joking w/me or trying to tell me that if i put a PS intercooler in my car will never be a collectable car again, which isnt true. i didnt mean to sound rude to him it was just a misinterpretation i guess. i wasnt trying to turn anything into a pissing match. im sure he has a nice car.

49-blues- ill give them a call and see what they say. thanks:)

ILBCNU6- i just wanted to move the battery to make room for the IC. nothing more. i may look into a dynabatt battery or some other type of slim design battery.
 
putting the battery in the trunk is always worthwhile, but do it right.
Buy high quality, hi-strand count cable #0 or #1 for the power
( Taylor has some premade 25 ft long , about $55.00)

Add a shutdown relay kit ( about $39.00 )

bulkhead terminals and or grommets for all pass-thru's

May as well install charging lugs in the spare wheelhouse.

And to be legal, a switch to cut power, external to the car.

Last but not least, a solid battery box, no a marine box with plastic strap is not legal or safe, must use a retaining system with a min of 2 3/8" bolts thru floorpan, or welded frame, check out the stock-car parts houses for simple low cost stuff.

I have about 250.00 invested so far ( not counting a no fume Optima ) And I still have not custom fabbed the mount box.

Oh yeah, don't forget to check out John Spina's site ( caspers ) for all the little terminal goodies etc.

My O2, leave the battery where it is, buy a good used GN Front mount I/C, save some money and do it right the first time.

This is not a cheap hobby.
 
ive decided not to relocate the battery. i may be able to run the piping a completely different way though.

thanks:)
 
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