Multiple Q's

#1
As short story. I found coolant in the oil. No clear pressure build up or "pulsing" was found in the radiator with engine running at temperature and idling after a hard run. (NO I did not realize there was water in the oil until afterward). This was the same day I fixed the coolant leak from a weak radiator cap. Thus the hard run to make sure everything was sealed up. Glitter found in the oil filter - all new bearings and seals are on order and the engine is coming out.

The heads are bolted down with ARP HW and the gaskets are the stamped steel with industrial strength adhesive ( I am blanking on the source/brand it was a PITA to heat cycle the engine and re-torque following the process.) I blew both (crappy felpro) head gaskets before and wanted the best bullet proof gaskets....this was several years ago. I am confident the case of the coolant leak is not head gasket related. Only time will tell. I hate to rip the heads off.

Intake: Upon inspection of the engine following the discovery of water in the oil ( and a huge oil/water mess in the drive way) the rear intake valley rubber seal was blown out!

I removed the intake and found water on top the valley pan. So far evidence suggest the intake/valley pan is the source of the leak from the drive's side rear head port (top side between intake and gasket)

I do not know PN of the suspected failed valley pan. It does look like the new Mahle PN# MS15960 -> It is all blue. I am used to a steel non-coated valley pan. The picture of the Mahle reflected this online and in the store, but the actual part is blue coated with something.

QUESTION 1 : Is the MAHLE MS15960 a quality part?


Question #2 : Who sells an Internal Waste Gate Down pipe that fits the ATR/Kenne Bell Style headers.


Thanks,
-Chad
 
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#3
Experience any detonation lately?
Not recently. Over two 2 years. I drive the car less than 500 miles/year. So you're implying detonation had taken its toll and my last hard run upto ~22 PSI w/ alky was the final push to get things to come apart.

Seems logical.

Do you have any experience with the Mahle intake gasket set?
 

turbo nasty

Goat Milk Racing
#4
Not recently. Over two 2 years. I drive the car less than 500 miles/year. So you're implying detonation had taken its toll and my last hard run upto ~22 PSI w/ alky was the final push to get things to come apart.

Seems logical.

Do you have any experience with the Mahle intake gasket set?
You have ARP studs?
 

earlbrown

runs with scissors
#8
Mahle is a quality part. In the case of the gasket, it's the same as a Victor Reinz. Since yours is blue it makes me think you have a FelPro gasket. If so, you should see a part number on it that starts with MS.

The thin steel intakes you're thinking of are the ones GM used from the factory.
 
#9
Mahle is a quality part. In the case of the gasket, it's the same as a Victor Reinz. Since yours is blue it makes me think you have a FelPro gasket. If so, you should see a part number on it that starts with MS.

The thin steel intakes you're thinking of are the ones GM used from the factory.

The blown is unknown but it looks just like the Mahle I bought & blue coated >> "QUESTION 1 : Is the MAHLE MS15960 a quality part? "
 

TurboBuRick

Moderator
Staff member
#10
Do you test your alky pump? They can get real lazy and hard to wake up if they sit for long periods of time.

Other thing, if you blew out the rear intake seal, you may not have sufficient crankcase ventilation. Do you have baffled grommets in the valve covers? And what breathers are you running? Grommets need to be wide open.

All you can do is put a new intake gasket on, change the oil and roll the dice but I can tell you from experience its prolly not going to fix the problem..
 
#12
Ok. The gramets for the breathers are tight. I made them tight because I thought they should keep the breathers snug. I learned something new...the hard way. So I should loosen them? Please confirm!

Attached are breather, DS has gramets on it. PS gramets is still in valve cover.

The alky pump appears to be working fine. I have had zero retard for a few years and had zero timing retard when the gasket let go. I will double check the pump though.
 

Attachments

Pronto

You're very kind. Some day it will get you killed.
#13
Tight isn't the issue, no air flow is. Can you see a clear open path for air movement? If not, pull them out and cut any flaps that block the path.
 

earlbrown

runs with scissors
#14
All you can do is put a new intake gasket on, change the oil and roll the dice but I can tell you from experience its prolly not going to fix the problem..

A leak down test could show a major issue that just cropped up that could overwhelm an iffy seal.


...or if ti's really bad, a compression test. Both of which can be performed with the intake off.
 
#15
NM. After further inspection and finding too much black sealer in the oil pan...and the only place I used black sealer was the heads.... The GN did the typical Buick 'pop top' move. I'll strip it down and have the deck and heads machined. So disappointed. But our family Buick blocks in our cars, 350s, 455s, and now my GN NEVER hold a head gasket once and heads are broke loose from the block. Each time it has required some minor machining to get the block flat and square. sheesh. I shoulda done it when I blew the first head gaskets.