Need a suggestion for a spring /valve replacement kit.
- Thread starter DARTHV6
- Start date
After just cleaning the ports myself ,I got a price grinding the seats, surfacing the heads locally, then price on intake and exhaust valves + a set of springs retainers keepers and seals. I assemble myself. It was saving me a hundred bucks, on a set of Champion CNC heads.
I live in Hawaii shipping and labor is high. Just something to consider.
I live in Hawaii shipping and labor is high. Just something to consider.
If you are going for a straight race setup it would be nice to have 180-200 on the seat and 450-500 open . But if you are trying to take it easy and it’s more of a street car you can get away with 140-150 on the seat and 360-420 over the nose . If you are doing these heads yourself you need to get yourself a valve hight mic and it’s nice to have a spring pressure tool so you can get the proper valve stem hight to get the pressures you want . Whatever you do don’t just throw them in and call it good especially if you are going through all this trouble porting them .
I was just going to throw them in. Looks like I’m going to have to study more. Have you done this before?
Art
No it's not. You just need to measure the spring installed height and put in springs that fit with that measurement.
Let me know if you ever see a good price. I see ones that just keep going up in price
Any monkey with a dremel and some time can get at least 80% of champs with no problem.
Then have a shop do the valve job and shave the head .
Then have a shop do the valve job and shave the head .
I bought a book and ported a set of SBC heads when i was in 10th grade, before I even had an engine. lol!
The old double camel hump heads. Worked great on the soon to be 327.
Basically did what Earl just said.
The old double camel hump heads. Worked great on the soon to be 327.
Basically did what Earl just said.
I have much more time a patience than skill. This will take a couple of months, off and on. But I don’t mind. My old craftsman grinder overheats and my pancake compressor runs out of air quick so I get to take my time anyway. How’s this for 1.5 hours?
Concentrate on the bowls. That's where all the easy efficiency is at.
We're not N/A, it's not like you need to spend a year trying to get every bit of the 14.7 pounds the Earth brings to the plate. We get to cheat.
We're not N/A, it's not like you need to spend a year trying to get every bit of the 14.7 pounds the Earth brings to the plate. We get to cheat.
Ok
With the bowls, I stay away from the lip, right? Or do enlarge the lip for bigger valves?
Thanks for the info
There's a concentric ring in there that chokes the airflow down, and to make things worse, point the air at the stem instead of the cylinder.
I can't find the recent pictures of some heads I did, but here's some old ones from a while back...
https://smg.photobucket.com/user/earlbrown/library/buickstuff/heads?page=1
When everything's all machined and shiny, the difference isn't that obvious. But if you look closely you can see a few differences between these and unmodified.
Granted I cut the guides, put 1.77's in the intake and shaved them at the shop, but the grinding can be done at home next to the beer fridge.
I can't find the recent pictures of some heads I did, but here's some old ones from a while back...
https://smg.photobucket.com/user/earlbrown/library/buickstuff/heads?page=1
When everything's all machined and shiny, the difference isn't that obvious. But if you look closely you can see a few differences between these and unmodified.
Granted I cut the guides, put 1.77's in the intake and shaved them at the shop, but the grinding can be done at home next to the beer fridge.
Photos worked for me.
If you google "porting buick heads", Or similar, A ton of crap comes up, most from this site, and some from Earl, including pics.
If you google "porting buick heads", Or similar, A ton of crap comes up, most from this site, and some from Earl, including pics.