Need advice.

1985BuickGN

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Need advice on how to set up my GN. It's an 85 with an 87 engine and trans. I have the engine almost done, just little things left, and would like to start on the suspension. I have done the Energy body bushings kit including the 2 missing GNX bushings. Installed a rear seat brace kit, and have Edelbrock performer IAS shocks on it now. Don't know if I should stick with these or go with the Bilsteins, seen alot of people posting about these. It handles ok, rides ok, but has poor traction. Alot of Porsche's and BMW's around here to play with and need to show these stuck up snobs I can take them in the turns as well as the straight aways. I would like to have great handling and good traction, I know there's a trade off, just don't know what that is. Also going to do a rear disc conversion, thinking about a PST kit, but again, need advice on this too. I won't say money is no issue, but I'm not afraid to do what it takes. Any input is appreciated.

Thanks, Paul.
 
I don't like the PST Rear Disc Brake set up. It uses the old "W" body rear brakes and has several design flaws as thet pertain to aggressive driving. The Baer set-up may cost more, but worth the money.

As for handling, Global West, Hotchkis, BMR, Wolfe Race Craft, ATR, and others have what you need to obtain your desired level of suspension mods. Some in kits, many seperate, to fit the budget.

Do a Google search for G-Body suspension or type the above names in to get the website as most have them.
 
Thanks Glen, I hadn't heard anything about the PST kit, so that defenitely helps. I've done some searching, and everyone claims to have the best stuff, but the only way to really know is to get input from those that have been there and tried it. Anyone ever bought a suspension part they wish they hadn't? Of so, what would you have gotten instead?

Thanks.
 
I cant find the post now but recently someone was talking about Bilstiens and eibachs (i think), saying that they made the car handle great and lowered someones 60' times. Cant remember the exact combo though.

Nick
 
Have some parts picked out, I think. Gonna go with Eibach springs, #3803-140, Edelbrock upper adjustable control arms #5247, trailing arm tubular braces #5210 (don't know if I need these?), Edelbrock rear suspension anti-hop bars #5214, Bilstein shocks, Global West lower control arms (if I can get ahold of a salesperson), and a sway-bar, although I have read on past posts about rear sway bars not being needed? Any more thoughts on this would help. Baer rear disc kit, and eventually front tubular A-arms. Does this look like overkill or am I on the right track? Thanks for the input.

Paul.
 
The braces are good for stiffing the frame in that area. I read recently that they were installed, from the factory, on mid 60' big block chevelles. Can't comment on the anti-hop bars, don't use them, but do know that many 10 sec cars don't use them, and would suspect that using an adjustable upper arm would accomplish the same principle and thats to change the pinion angle. Would look into the Edelbrock AIS shock before buying the Bilstiens, strictly as a ride issue and not a handling thing.
 
I've got the Edelbrock IAS right now, but I've been hearing from multiple sources that the Bilstein's are better. I will say that the Edelbrock's are good, but the only thing I can compare them to are completely shot Delco's. This is my first GN, but I have another that is in pieces and will be restored. I guess this is just going to be my test car and I'll see what works and what doesn't. I can always use the extra stuff on the other one. I ordered the Global West LCA's today and the salesman told me that I would not need a rear sway bar with these. Quote "the sway bar would be there for looks and would serve no purpose". I guess I'll see when I get it all together.
 
I've used KYB, Bilstiens and then Edelbrocks in that order. I found the Edelbrocks to give the best ride in city driving with no change in how it handles compared to the other two. We put the Edelbrocks on my brothers car and took off his Bilstiens and he liked the Edelbrocks also, compared to the Bilstiens. I took the AIS shocks off because I though that there was a problem with the way it was riding in the rear, too stiff. So without checking I ordered a set of the QA1 shocks. The problem turned out to be that I had the rear lowered too much and did not provided for shock travel in combination with the Baer rear brakes and the relocated shock bracket. Now with that said, I don't go autocrossing or road racing either. I just don't like slowing down for off ramps or turns.
 
In my experiance you can't do to much chassis/suspension work...Overkill is enogh if you know what I mean, but most of us have budgets so I say do all you can WITHIN YOUR BUDGET...If you end up with more suspension the you need Drive Harder...I don't consider it a waste I consider it more "options for the future"
 
I use Eibach springs & Tokico non-adjustable shocks. I really like the way they hold the road. My problem is that I need new front end bushings so I haven't had the full benifit of that combo yet...
 
Budget?, what's a budget?:D I swear sweetheart, it's only gonna cost a hundred bucks. ;) After everything else I've done to the car, the last thing I'm going to skimp on is the suspension and brakes. I don't believe in overkill, when you cut corners, that's when bad things happen. I do believe in doing things right the first time, although it doesn't always work that way, but when it does it's usually cheaper and causes less headaches. Glen, you said that you had the rear lowered too much, was that because of the springs or did you do extra lowering? I've ordered the Eibach springs and the website said that the rears would be 0.8" lower than stock, and the fronts would be 1" lower. Hopefully this isn't enough to worry about. Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it:) . I'll keep posting on this as I get stuff installed and let you know pro's and con's. Thanks.
 
It's the rear spring from GW. I also have the Baer rear disc and you have to relocate the lower shock mount. Between the two it left about 1" or so of travel, and over things like bumps it would buck like a truck in the rear. So thinking :confused: that the shock was too stiff, I jumped the gun and ordered the QA1 shock, which is 12 way adjustable. I have a drive-on lift, so when I went to change out the shocks I saw the real problem, which would not have been seen with a regular lift where the rear drops when lifted. I set the QA1 to the #3 setting which closely feels the same as the AIS. I used a scale to see how many lbs it took to compress the AIS and then matched as close with the QA1. Had I identified the problem first, before buying, I would have kept the AIS shocks on. The QA1 is a nice shock though and is 12 way adjustable and rebuildable.
 
Well, I've got the rear done and the front springs and shocks in, and the rear dropped noticeably right away, car looked funny. Then I did the fronts, the springs were about an inch shorter side by side, but when I put them in the car, it was a little higher than before. I took it for a short test drive (had to go to a wedding last night) and it did handle better and feel better. I peeked in the garage this morning and it looks a little lower. Just wondering if these things will compress over time or if I did something wrong. I double checked to make sure the spring was in the upper socket and in the lower groove, and they are. Didn't do the trailing arm braces, it looks like they won't work with the Hooker exhaust system, anyone know about this? Thanks. Paul.
 
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