Need opinions

[$1987 GN$]

I am going to replace the rear deck factory 4x10's. Want to know what is the best sounding speaker to go with? Will be having the deck cut to fit for 6X9's. Also have two Sherwood 125 watt rms amp's one per speaker. Also will be replacing the front deck speakers using deck power what speaker combo will work with the rear deck and also doing the doors speaker. I do not want to cut out the door panels. A single 125 for the door speakers. I also have two Cerwin Vega 12 inch subs behind the rear seat they are mounted on 3/4' particle board. Will I have any problem with sound as the deck speakers and the subs are open to the trunk . If the is I have a friend that has a program to make boxes for the rear deck speakers which he said would be a pain but could be made.

Thanks in advance. AJ

I am not concerned about cost want the best speakers also realize that the most expensive is not necessarily the best.

 

[dconnor]

Cerwin Vega Stealth Series 6x9"s for the deck & 5 1/4" for the doors will work very well & have excellent sound quality for the money. My question is WHY cut up the rear deck to mount 6x9"s?!?! Just use a set of 4x10" to 6x9" adapters (available at any stereo shop), they work more than fine.

Also running your subs free-air (which Cerwin Vega's aren't really designed for) will muddy up your 6x9"s a bit.

Doug C.

 

[salvageV6]

Depending on where your baffle board is for the free-air subwoofers they may interfere with 6x9's and the adaptors.

Prolly won't if you put them up to the back deck as planned.

I stayed with 4x10's for that reason my adaptors wouldn't fit.

I'd power the door speakers and the dash speakers with amp. power in MHO. Just balance them with crossovers and some in-line power resistors to keep the balance correct.

I will be using JBL 504gti's in the door in the new GN. Hopefully they will fit without cutting.

Good luck.

 

[$1987 GN$]

The Cerwin Vega Stealth Series are supposed to be great speakers but will not handle the power.

The amps are rated at 125 rms had them tested and they actually run at 150 plus rms with 75 percent input max.

Where are all the pro audio guy's? Are there none on here?

Man I need some specs and poinions!

Model numbers and the rest.

Help please.

AJ

 

[Audiowizard]

If you do not want to cut door panels. Go for the extra expense and purchase some kick panel pods and a set of component speakers, you will be glad that you did.

As for the subs, you would be better off building an enclosure for them. I can design a woofer cabinet for you that you can have built to fit that will have the proper airspace for your subs. Infinite baffle sounds ok at low to mid levels but cannot handle the volume much higher with out bottoming.

I would concentrate on building a good front stage for your car and have a little bit of rear fill to enhance the front stage, 4 x 10s will fit the bill or get the adapters for 6 x 9s.

The Buick Regal was not really designed from the factory for a good sounding system due to the room and driver placement. It can be done with proper driver placement and minor modification. You dont have to go as radical as I did with my '86 GN but you still can achieve a nice sounding set-up with kick panel or door panel pods and a subwoofer enclosure. If you need any help with specs or design and installation, feel free to e-mail me. Good luck!

 

[darkfa8]

IMHO

Do not cut up the rear deck. I had a 86 Monte SS that someone did this to to fit in 6x9's and instead it wound up compromising the body support back there and I couldn't install GNX braces to compensate because too much sheetmetal was cut away.

A primary rule of modification to a car, don't do anything to compromise the structural stability of the vehicle unless you are going to build and secondary reinforcement....or in other words, don't cut up the rear deck for some speakers.

I am not a believer in having rear fill speakers since the stereo sound is only comprised of two channels with no rear fill information. Unless you are building a Dolby 5.1 system for use with a DVD player, there really is no need for rear fill.

Unless your subs are of the free-air or infinite baffle type, you run the risk of doing sever damage to them by not having them in some sort of enclosure. Without an enclosure, and the trunk being as large an air space as it it, it doesn't act on the cone of the sub enough so the help prevent over-excursion or act as a damper.

Box design programs, like WinISD are good for designing enclosures, but there is a margin of error because you also have to take into account the acoustical environment in which you'll be installing the box. Vibrations, road noise, air leaks from poor seals can all degrade the efficiency of the design of a box.

First figure out what you want out of a stereo system, then go from there and look at the car. Make sure the electrical system is solid, then noises, leaks and other detriments. All the idosyncrasies add up.

If you need any additional help, contact Audiowizard, mcss_383 or me and we'll do our best to help you.

Good luck.

 

[dconnor]

Also have two Sherwood 125 watt rms amp's one per speaker

1st time I've ever heard of ANYONE running an amp per 6x9"; I'm curious as to your reasoning for doing this SOOooo please let us know.

I would suggest using ONE of those sherwoods (which ARE a good budget amp, put out plenty of power but are not the most refined pieces out there) for the 6x9"s & ONE for your dash/door speakers.

The Cerwin Vega Stealth Series are supposed to be great speakers but will not handle the power. The amps are rated at 125 rms had them tested and they actually run at 150 plus rms with 75 percent input max.

Thats a lot of wattage to be shoving at a 6x9" (CV's handle around 75 watts rms) & I don't know of ANY that are designed to handle that much constant power (off the top of my head that is, I WILL do some looking.) Also running a ton of watts at the rear "stage" will drown out the front speakers which, due to the Turbo Regal's interior layout, are MUCH more important to a quality system.

Where are all the pro audio guy's? Are there none on here?

I worked in a custom car audio shop for ~4 1/2years & have been doing installs on the side for more than 10 years.... AND there are several people that frequent this forum that have just as much (and MORE) experience as I do! Try a little patience, not eveyone checks the forum on a daily basis.

If you want better feedback, try giving us more detailed information!

What KIND of specs are you looking for?
What type of music will you be listening to?
Looking for a "thump-thump-BOOoom" system, ultra clean/clear music reproduction, etc.....???
Budget?!?
They just go on & on.....

Doug C.

 

[Audiowizard]

If you want to see a pic of kick panel pods installed, click on mcss383s '86 Monte Carlo SS link. If you want to see a pic of my door pods, click on my link in my signature Audiowizards '86 GN pics . The kick panel pods are easier and less hassle to install.

 

[GNandTTA]

I would get some good front speakers. The kick panel pods are a good way to go. Little to no irreversable damage to the car if you wish to go back to stock. I would use one Sherwood for the front stage. Use the second Sherwood for the subs. Then get some decent 4X10"'s or even better 4" for the back powered with the radio's power. Using the 4" in the 4x10" spot lets more of the bass energy into the cabin via the vacated space. Plus no cutting. I actually had the FACTORY 4x10"'s untill recently. The back speakers are for rear fill which is supposed to have less volume and a flater sound. Concentrate on building a front stage. If you were not putting a sub in the back then by all means replace the 4X10"'s with good 6x9"'s.

 

[KWIKR 1]

Let's hear what a "Ultra Clean/Clear" system would consist of in the $1000-$2000 range. Thanks,

 

[darkfa8]

some stuff....

thought this might be of interest:

http://www.carsound.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/012771.html

Aside from that, for more in-depth "ideas" on car audio visit www.carsound.com and www.termpro.com

as for your system, is that $1-2K for equipment alone, for a clean system you'll need some sound deadener, plus all the wiring, interconnects ...

then designing and building your enclosures...etc..etc..

If you went to a installer and told him you wanted a "nice clean system for $1-2K", there is a lot more they'd want to know before doing anything.

Whether or not the vehicle is for competition, daily driver ... the kind of music you listen to, upgradability, space required and other important things.

If you really don't know where to start, look at other people's systems ... goto the website I listed above and read, chat and ask questions.

 

[Audiowizard]

TTT for Drew L.