Do you guys think a turbo tweak chip and a rjc powerplate would help me squeeze a little more "safe" boost. Some say not. Right now 15 psi is max. on pump gas. How much more boost will it give me? I'm looking for cheap add ons before I take the dive into a $900 front mount which is not in my budget any time in the future. Any other suggestions other that alky? I don't have slicks, maybe I should get them instead.
next upgrade worth the $$?
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Both will help even though I have been Using an Extender chip with 19/17 timing and the RJC PP. I run about 20-21 psi on 93 octane every day and have been for a while with very little knock(1.1-1.4 degrees). The only time I might see a little more is if I let the car go into O/D at full throttle with the locked converter. Putting them both on is most certainly not going to hurt. People using the TT chip love it so it must work well and there will be other benefits besides a boost increase.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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I would skip the $900 FM and go for the Alkycontrol kit and a TT chip and PP. You'll have some money left over to put towars some M/T drag radials.
tford said:
I just noticed what turbo you have. Wait until you allow it to breathe.
I'm very happy with it especially with the P&P heads/intake and FMIC. This is the intercooler I'm using and it was $699 to my door. I still plan to sell it and get the RJC Megacooler anyway. http://www.gn1performance.com/Products/intercooler.html
SouthernCal GN
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Razor's kit, a wideband, and tune that monkey! $800 well spent for real gains.
If you really want a FM, then build yourself one for about $200 with the PS intercooler. BUT, do the above first.
If you really want a FM, then build yourself one for about $200 with the PS intercooler. BUT, do the above first.
22lbChevelle
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And remember to put the PP on first and test. Clear the ecm along with it...Please be sure to post back on it's results.
. what do ya have against "alky" ??
vacuum 6
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Save your $$$ for a while and buy an Alkycontrol kit and a TT chip. Then buy a used FM.
The RJC plate is more of a safety than anything else. May or may not give you more boost, but will help protect you when you start pushing it. The TT chip is a good investement as the adjustable features will let you dial in the car and let you get the most of it.
After those two, the best upgrades I did on my car were Mickey Thompson drag radials, H&R Parts rear sway bar, and alky.
With the Mickey Thompson DRs, I was hitting consistent 1.5 60fts on my GT6152 turbo. This is in combination with the H&R bar, stock boxed lower control arms and poly bushings in the lowers and stock uppers. No front sway bar and Lakewood 50/50 shocks in the rear and 70/30 shocks up front. Not a very expensive suspension besides the H&R bar. The MT DRs are great, very good on the road and just about as good as slicks at the track.
Alky was probably the best upgrade I've done. No more worrying about race gas and fouling O2 sensors and plugs. I'm using methanol which is quite cheap. With a stock location intercooler, especially a dutt neck, the alky really helps cool the air and practically eliminates heat soak, a problem I was having in the past. Tuning has been very simple as the stock settings were pretty darn close.
I don't know what your converter stall is, but an RJC boost controller really helped my spool and they are quite cheap and easy to hook up.
Also, without alky those 009s won't be on the edge once you start pushing this turbo. Alky helps replace some of the fuel though, so you don't need as big of injectors.
After those two, the best upgrades I did on my car were Mickey Thompson drag radials, H&R Parts rear sway bar, and alky.
With the Mickey Thompson DRs, I was hitting consistent 1.5 60fts on my GT6152 turbo. This is in combination with the H&R bar, stock boxed lower control arms and poly bushings in the lowers and stock uppers. No front sway bar and Lakewood 50/50 shocks in the rear and 70/30 shocks up front. Not a very expensive suspension besides the H&R bar. The MT DRs are great, very good on the road and just about as good as slicks at the track.
Alky was probably the best upgrade I've done. No more worrying about race gas and fouling O2 sensors and plugs. I'm using methanol which is quite cheap. With a stock location intercooler, especially a dutt neck, the alky really helps cool the air and practically eliminates heat soak, a problem I was having in the past. Tuning has been very simple as the stock settings were pretty darn close.
I don't know what your converter stall is, but an RJC boost controller really helped my spool and they are quite cheap and easy to hook up.
Also, without alky those 009s won't be on the edge once you start pushing this turbo. Alky helps replace some of the fuel though, so you don't need as big of injectors.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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Murphster, what converter are you running with that turbo?
Its an older Art Carr 9.5" 3200 stall that I had freshened about a year and a half ago. Its a lockup but I only tried locking it once and it didn't hold. Its very inefficient on the top end and slips a lot, the main reason for the low trap speed. My rpms are too high, even with 28" tires. It hits hard out of the hole though. 
Looking to get a Vigilante multi-disc lockup unit sometime this year and see what happens. Assuming I'll pick up ET and mph, I'll need to get a cage first though. They were waiting for me when I ran the 11.4 as I had been making multiple 11.5 runs previously and I got warned pretty good at E-town not to run another 11.4.
I'll be paying around on a stock turbo for now seeing if I can run 11's on it. I tried putting on a TE44 but I ran 11.6 on that the first time out and would've hit 11.4s on that if I had a decent 60ft.
Looking to get a Vigilante multi-disc lockup unit sometime this year and see what happens. Assuming I'll pick up ET and mph, I'll need to get a cage first though. They were waiting for me when I ran the 11.4 as I had been making multiple 11.5 runs previously and I got warned pretty good at E-town not to run another 11.4.
I'll be paying around on a stock turbo for now seeing if I can run 11's on it. I tried putting on a TE44 but I ran 11.6 on that the first time out and would've hit 11.4s on that if I had a decent 60ft.
Marc87GN said:Geez! That's some crazy ET for such little trap speed. It leaves the gate hard and is gone.
The 1/8 ET was 7.23@92.89mph on that run. 1.55 60ft. It starts dying off right before the 1/8th as the rpms are already going out of the range of the stock cam, not to mention all of the slippage. Probably will hit 120mph or high teens on a lockup, but hopefully won't hurt the performance out of the hole. I currently only have about a 400rpm drop in between shifts, if that.
grumpy, i dont have anything against alky. I just have heard horror stories about people running out of alky, not realizing the low alky light is on, and blowing up their motor. I like the fact that with a better intercooler, it is guaranteed to be ready whenever I hammer on it. I think you guys have talked me out of the expensive front mount though. My friend can build me on for about 500 or 600 bucks, but I'm afraid it won't perform as good as the expensive one. For a few hundred more, I could get one of the proven one's. Money is an issue, but at least with all of your help, I'll know what to buy next when the time comes. Thanks to all. Alky is next!!! Can't wait.
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What you describe is OPERATOR error, not a kit error!tford said:
Just establish a habit of 'testing' the system before you go WOT, thats all it takes to insure your kit is spraying. Any part on any car can fail suddenly.... Alchy failure is a small (acceptable) risk in my view, as long as you install and operate it according to the instructions, there is no more risk than any other component failure in a given second of operation. Alky is a system that will grow with your modifications, add it early....
P.S. I've read stories where the Alky spray saved a catastrophic engine failure when the fuel pump failed, and about as many where the Alchy failure was attributed to engine failure....Anecdotes in either category are very, very rare.
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murphster said:
The power plate is a safety device in my view also. It will take one or two more PSI of boost to return to the rate of air flow you had without the plate by most user's accounts. It will keep air flow to the cylinders more equal and safe. A more fool proof configuration than without.
A modern chip is a must whatever your modifications or performance.
SouthernCal GN
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tford said:
Cost of the FMIC isn't the issue to be concerned with- efficiency is. I favor the Powerstroke because it's a monster, and the cost is reasonable. I have no heartache taking the time to figure out the install, and saving $$ in the process. The PS can handle 40 lbs+ of boost, and are well proven.
The production FMs available are all great at removing the heat from the intake charge, and are designed to be an easy install. It's your choice.
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