OEM fuel rail, what is it made out of?

I doubt the factory rail will be worth crap on an E85 car since it has a hard time with distribution when using 83 lb/hr injectors over 65% duty cycle. #1 is always lean. Most would figure on 120 lb/hr injectors minimum. Dual fed aftermarket rails are the way to go. #8 feed for most. Some will require a #10:eek: . Both should be run to a Y-block and sent to each rail with a #8 or #6. Dont forget about the big pump required either.
 
Agree, forget the stock rail due to volume issues and not as much it's material (steel), though Stainless, Anodized or Nickel plated would be better.
 
Just thinking out loud for now. But if and or when I do, I would like to do it one time with the proper parts.

Then you will be avoiding the stocker unless you want to limit yourself to 400hp.
 
Tom did you chop off the end part of the rail where it necks down massively??

If that narrowing is still in the rail I wonder what your Injector Pulse Width would drop too if you went to a massive -8 or -10 rail ( all the way through ).

Check out Dusty's post #4, with 120lb injectors the stock rail would be killing the volume even more and pulse width will sky rocket with E85 on your car.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/en...estion.html?highlight=champion+fuel+rail+size

The issue is that narrowing at the feed fitting, it's ridiculous. Even if the Champion was a tad smaller internally then the stock rail, the fact that it doesn't have that narrowing is much more important.

There are a few places that have custom rails for us.
 
I cut the narrowing end off. The smallest part is the inside of the -10 fitting.
When I go with the 120 or 160's I will probably change the rail.
 
Good deal, not too many guys do that, they just slap on a bigger fitting and think it will solve the stock rails volume issue there.

The stock rails pretty big inside once that narrowing is gone, it's just the rear connecting section that I never checked out. You might not need to move on if there is not a problem back there.
 
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