Perfomance expectation

[Mad_Trbo]

Gotta be honest, the durn thing just feels like a boat. Literally it feels like it is rocking front to back, side to side all over the place.

But this is after having ridden 3 - 4 years in BMW M3 and then the Eclipse which has a JIC coilover suspension with all new poly eurathane bushings set up for autocross.

I am hoping the new shocks will eliminate some of boaty sensation.

 

[wants a tr]

What heads are on your car?? If you have stockers...they are gonna choke that turbo...also any work done to the motor?

Hope you enjoy the turbo buick experience!!!

 

[Marc87GN]

I finaly installed the pro torque converter along with a new transmission from CK Performance. What a f'ing job, I would love to know how most got to those two upper bolts on the case. They are a real pain in the a$$ and doing it by your self can be challenging. I would love to know how most jack the cars up?

As far as performance, I have the boost set @ 10lbs for now and the car is pulling strong. The boost comes on instantly just as all of you said it would. I can be rolling down the road say 10 - 15 miles per hour floor the car and the wheels light up. The torque is absolutely astonishing on this car, I can tell it will eventually eat my GSX's lunch.

Now to the suspension, steering and tuning. The car feels floaty at speed....


QA1's coil over and UMI adjustable upper and lower control arms.

Hopefully you will never have to do it again, but to get to the upper bolts, next time, remove the coil pack and Ign control module bracket together and it's much easier.

I agree on the boat feeling because I came from a 99 GT which handled quite well. I added new springs, Bilsteins, frame/seat braces and body bushings and the car is rock steady. These cars are more finicky than anything I have experienced, but when they are running right, they are incredible IMO. I finally touched 18 psi last night and at 40 mph, the tires let go and the car was on a mission.

 

[VadersV6]

The 2 top bellhousing bolts? Those arent a big deal really, if you use the right tools. I just used a swivel socket. Not a swivel and a socket. 1/2" drive ratchet. 2, 1 foot, 1/2" extensions going to a 1/2 to 3/8" drive reducer and then the 3/8" swivel socket. 15mm I think??? Then wrap the u-joint in the swivel socket with duct tape...a couple winds. Keeps it from falling over. Thats the only way to go. Work smarter, not harder. Just think about something else and be patient. Seriously try to go as slowly as you can. Guide the extension/socket assembly up there and get it on the bolt. Then pop the wrench on there (button release style) and lay into that thing with all the strength you have. Doesnt hurt to have a 2" pipe laying around, but I didnt need it. My Dad who used to be a mechanic, gave up on those 2 upper bolts. I got under there and had them off in 5 minutes. You need a good hanging shop lamp so you can see them. No need to touch the coil pack. Just a good lamp and the right tools, and the right attitude.
As far as feeling loose at speed, I agree. I also came from a 99 stang (cobra), and at 100mph that car felt like it was doing 30. This GN at 100mph feels like its breaking to pieces while shattering the sound barrier in a glued together 1920's bi-plane. Scary isnt quite the right adjective. If I ever have a scare, where I have to react quickly and steer at any speed over 50mph, Im dead. The tie rod ends/ball joints/bushings are all toast. I put shocks in the front, and it felt like they went bad in 2 weeks.

 

[ijames]

I don't think it is possible to have too long an extension to get those bolts from underneath. They are 9/16", and use a swivel socket as someone else said, not a universal joint and regular socket. SnapOn sells a nice 3' long extension that is 1/2" drive for the ratchet and 3/8" drive for the socket that makes this even easier. Lots of torque from the bigger ratchet and a more compact socket to maneuver around the dipstick tube tab. Seriously, the 3' extension is enough but 4' wouldn't really hurt. You can do it by piecing together extensions but if you have any kind of impact gun (air or battery) that won't work, it will just twist up and untwist as all the joints absorb the impacts. I'm planning on buying a real cheap extension, sawing it in two, and welding each piece into the end of a 3-4' piece of 1/2" pipe . Haven't decided if I'll sacrifice two extensions to duplicate the SnapOn piece or just stay 3/8" drive.

 

[VadersV6]

Naw, 3/8" drive extensions dont work. I tried it, and they twisted so bad it wouldnt work, (I was doing it by hand...no impact) which is why I switched to the 1/2 to 3/8" adapter and went to the 1/2" extensions and ratchet. Using the duct tape on the swivel socket made things much much easier. Worked like a charm after that.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Naw, 3/8" drive extensions dont work. I tried it, and they twisted so bad it wouldnt work, (I was doing it by hand...no impact) which is why I switched to the 1/2 to 3/8" adapter and went to the 1/2" extensions and ratchet. Using the duct tape on the swivel socket made things much much easier. Worked like a charm after that.

What i do is use a bunch of 3/8 wobble extensions
Sears sells them, the ends are cut so your socket/next extension will pivot/move slightly at a angle and enough of them will follow the trans to the bolt head.
I use a 3/8 chrome universal right at the socket, but i keep it wrapped with electrical tape so the darned thing stays ridgid more and doesnt flop around.

Doing a tranny by yourself is a MFPITA without a lift or a trans jack.

Glad you got it in and out, now turn the boost up!
BW

 

[Mad_Trbo]

Sounds like a lot of advice I could have used prior to the install, but point taken and I hope I don't have to redo any of it again. It was a really interesting task between getting the car high enough to move the transmission on a jackstand from underneath the car and then install the new one to the top two bolts. I have to say I spent the most time trying to figure out those two bolts and that is the kind of work I hate the most. Two bolts and one hour later.

What do you guys call it time wise. I am thinking no more than 4 hours if you know what you are doing.

As it relates to the motor, no work at all. I bought the car for $2,200 ran compression and leak down and everything read fine. I said I would run it till I broke it and re-build it from there. Now I need to find myself a good short block to start working on.

Any ideas on where to find one reasonably priced.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Junk yard
ANY 3.8 from a late 85, and ALL 86-87 regals,grand prix,cutalss,late 85 - 88 montes,.

The ONLY difference between the 2 longblocks is the crank,pistons,balancer, oil pan has no baffle.

Same rods,heads,block (109 blocks are the last 3 digits located at the back of the block, located where the starter would be IF it was on the drivers side.)
Same timing cover,flywheel,ect.

If you go to the yard and find multiple motors, find one with the original freeze plugs and not one with the tablets stuck in the middle of them...
That stuck on tablet would indicate that the motor has been rebuilt and might have incorrect parts.

I would find one that was rear ended, most likely the engine will be fine since the car made it to the yard because it was wrecked.
BW