Pictures of homemade cold air kits?

[rb68rr]

Please post pictures of your homemade cold air kits and how you went about making them. Thanks, R.B.

 

[rb68rr]

ttt

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Sorry, couldn't resist!

http://www.buickgn.com/bigmouth.htm

Technically correct, as I do make them in my garage!

 

[et10sec]

cold air set up

mark, your cold air set up the best! when are going to make a 4 inch crome mass air, et10sec

 

[TR Custom Parts]

http://www.buickgn.com/4inchinletpipes.htm Have had these out for a while! Mostly making them for the guys with a 4"inlet turbo and running the FAST/DFI systems.

 

[et10sec]

mark i am still using mass air, i could cut it but its not crome, i bought one and never used it! et10sec

 

[rb68rr]

Come on guys! Somebody out there has to be proud enough of there homemade cold air kit to post some pictures and give details.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

You can email me direct so we don't "steal" this guy's thread.
mhueffman@snet.net

 

[turbo buicks]

i took the advice of my friend and used a mandrel U-bent 3 inch piece of exhaust pipe and cut it in half and used the stock elbow to connect the pieces and mounted my KN behind the headlight. i painted the pipes a dullish silver too but i should havce put some rust protectant on them too b/c i am starting to see some rust spots. i think if you got some galvanized exhaust piping it wouldnt rust. i took it out and on the first WOT there was a big difference in reponse and acceleration. no more knock either. i had the filter under the hood previously, right down in that place where the stock filter box sits. i remember putting my car on the T-link and the IAT's were really high but i cant remember how much exactly.

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by turbo buicks
i took the advice of my friend and used a mandrel U-bent 3 inch piece of exhaust pipe and cut it in half and used the stock elbow to connect the pieces and mounted my KN behind the headlight. i painted the pipes a dullish silver too but i should havce put some rust protectant on them too b/c i am starting to see some rust spots. i think if you got some galvanized exhaust piping it wouldnt rust. i took it out and on the first WOT there was a big difference in reponse and acceleration. no more knock either. i had the filter under the hood previously, right down in that place where the stock filter box sits. i remember putting my car on the T-link and the IAT's were really high but i cant remember how much exactly.

That's what I did. A Hooker 3" "U" from Summit racing. Pics are here:
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:8086/coldair.html

 

[Kevin Turch]

Links dont work for me
Kevin

 

[John Larkin]

My car's CAI

Cost somewhere around $48 w/o filter. If you factor in the time running around looking for parts and the engineering time, money is better spent on a ready-to-go package. But if money is tight, then this is an alternative.

 

[turbo buicks]

jimmy, what kind of paint did you use? my pipes are starting to get some surface rust and it looks bad. i like the look of your pipes.

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by turbo buicks
jimmy, what kind of paint did you use? my pipes are starting to get some surface rust and it looks bad. i like the look of your pipes.

I used "low gloss" black engine paint that I got from the local auto parts store. I think it's Plasti-Kote.

On the links: Namesecure was having trouble with domain name forwarding for the past 3 days. I was one of the victims. Should be okay now.

Jim

 

[scottyb]

Click my website button below.
Going from MAF to new filter:
I took off the elbow that went to the old airbox. I got a few rubber/clamps for 3" pipe from home depot, then a VW heater hose from an air cooled VW, another rubber clamp, about 5" length of black 3" PVC, another rubber clamp, then the original elbow that bends down behind the headlight and the K&N clamped to it.
Excluding the K&N, less than $20 if you have to go buy the hose, 9 bucks if you have a "donor" hose. .

 

[Dan Thompson]

Check out mine on my website. All the parts are listed under the pictures.

There is a post showing a Honda APC pipe that looks pretty good.

 

[1owner]

I routed mine to the usual spot underneath the driver's headlight.
I bought one stock flex hose & one 9" cone filter.
MAF is secured [by a bracket] to the alternator bracket.
2nd stock flex hose connects MAF to stock 90* connector [from top of stock air box]. Cone filter attaches to other end of stock 90*.
Filter is secured using a beam clamp and a 6" one hole strap [industrial electrical parts] to the frame.
Real cheap, has been on car for over 5 yrs. and runs 116mph [1/4].

istvan boeddecker

86 GNAT - orig. owner
87 Regal T w/ turbo - daily driver

 

[gofstbuick]

Originally posted by turbojimmy
That's what I did. A Hooker 3" "U" from Summit racing. Pics are here:
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:5150/coldair.html

Could you have used a 4 inch U instead of a 3 and would it make a difference?

 

[scottyb]

Originally posted by gofstbuick
Could you have used a 4 inch U instead of a 3 and would it make a difference?

I'd use a 4" with a LS1 MAF, 3" with the stock MAF.

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by gofstbuick
Could you have used a 4 inch U instead of a 3 and would it make a difference?

You could use a 4". I'm not sure how much difference it would make. I actually asked the same question before I put mine together and didn't get an answer. You're limited by the MAF (unless you get an LS1 MAF, which I ultimately did) and then by the inlet pipe diameter and the turbo inlet. I'm not sure what 4" would buy you.

Jim