Poor handling / steering wheel play

87 Eddie

New Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
I've been trying to get my car to handle better and have replaced a lot of parts. My steering wheel has a little play which doesn't seem normal to me. Feels like there's play between 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock positions. I also feel the car should be handling much better considering all the parts I've replaced. Car was aligned last week too. Here's my setup. All parts have very little miles.

Hotchkis front and rear shocks
PST idler arm / inner and outer tie rods / center link
Kirban connecting brace / front frame brace / under hood brace
GM Astro steering shaft
Remanufactured steering gearbox
Stock front sway bar
G body front upper control arms & UMI lower's
DSE springs in front / Moog 5413 rear
Hotchkis rear trailing arms / control arms / rear sway bar
Trunk braces

There were definitely improvements from where it use to be, but I was expecting a tighter steering wheel and the car to be more responsive. What else might I have missed that could contribute to handling?
 
Have someone move the steering wheel while you look for play in the shaft.

On my 2+2, there was play at the connector where the column met the shaft and the tilt wheel mechanism needed the 4 bolts tightened.

Your astro shaft should be tight, so if the wheel moves and the shaft doesn't, its the tilt bolts.
 
Yea check the steering shaft mine had play where it bolted together coming out of the firewall. Took off and pounded just a little bit closed,just enough to get back on other shaft. Stopped all play in steering. As far as handling, i replaced all body bushings with poly, the car is alittle stiff but handle ten times better than it ever did
 
Yea have somone play with steering wheel so you can look. Mine was loose where the two shafts come together,took it off and pounded it a little closed so it just slipped back on, no more play. As for handling,all new poly body bushings,car a little stiff riding but handles ten time better than ever,no bounce,no body roll.
 
OP, I'm after the same resolution you are. I'm glad you posted this. Good luck, I hope these suggestions work for you. Subscribed.
 
Couple good suggestions. I will take a look this weekend. I had someone wiggle the steering wheel and didn't notice any play in the shaft. Is it normal for the gearbox to have little play? When the steering wheel is moved the steering box moves as well without any of the steering components moving. Is everyone's steering wheel tight when centered?
 
With a tight column and a no rag joint shaft, small steering wheel movements should result in small wheel movements. Very little should be "lost", If the shaft is moving and the pitman isn't, its the box.

Even with a rag joint small wheel movements should be noticeable at the tire, as long as the rag joint is in good condition.

Similar to Gene, my 2+2 was loose at the shaft connection. We fixed that and then noticed the shaft didn't move and the steering wheel moved 10 degrees right/left. Tightening the Tilt wheel bolts fixed this.

I just tighten the tilt bolts on my TTA and the steering input to wheel movement seems tighter than my manual rack/pinion miata, which is "world class".

No locktite was used on these bolts when new so they all back out eventually.
 
the gearbox seems to be the only thing that hasn't been replaced, and there should be no play in it at all. put one hand on the Pitman arm and use the other to twist the shaft- you should feel the arm move the instant you move the shaft.
 
With a tight column and a no rag joint shaft, small steering wheel movements should result in small wheel movements. Very little should be "lost", If the shaft is moving and the pitman isn't, its the box.

Even with a rag joint small wheel movements should be noticeable at the tire, as long as the rag joint is in good condition.

Similar to Gene, my 2+2 was loose at the shaft connection. We fixed that and then noticed the shaft didn't move and the steering wheel moved 10 degrees right/left. Tightening the Tilt wheel bolts fixed this.

I just tighten the tilt bolts on my TTA and the steering input to wheel movement seems tighter than my manual rack/pinion miata, which is "world class".

No locktite was used on these bolts when new so they all back out eventually.


Thanks for the detailed description. There is definitely something I still need to work on. Small steering movements seem to move the gearbox but not the pitman arm. I need to make sure the shaft is not loose where it connects to the column. I'll also look into the tilt bolts.
 
the gearbox seems to be the only thing that hasn't been replaced, and there should be no play in it at all. put one hand on the Pitman arm and use the other to twist the shaft- you should feel the arm move the instant you move the shaft.

The gearbox was replaced two weeks ago with a remanufactured one from advanced auto. I'll try this as well. I need to get under the car to see if the arm moves when the shaft is moved.
 
The gearbox was replaced two weeks ago with a remanufactured one from advanced auto. I'll try this as well. I need to get under the car to see if the arm moves when the shaft is moved.
There are 2 adjustments for the steering gear box and I have yet to find a rebuilder that can do them right. The sector shaft adjustment is the one they usually get right but the input shaft is the one they screw up. The sector shaft adjustment is the stud and nut sticking up off the diamond shaped plate facing up. Loosen the nut slightly and turn the stud in about 1/16 of a turn. It requires you to use allen wrenches and hold the nut so the stud goes in. Once you do this hold the stud in place and tighten the nut. If that doesn't do it then the input adjustment is off.
 
I just went through this myself. It turned out to be my center link. You would never know there was any play in the connections until you remove it from the car. New center link has made a world of difference in getting rid of the play in the steering wheel.
 
I took back the the steering box and exchanged it for another. I was going to wait until my DSE steering box came in, but they are on back order for a couple months. The replacement improved the slop a little, but didn't remove it completely. As Charlie mentioned, doesn't seem like they are adjusted right when rebuilt.
 
I took back the the steering box and exchanged it for another. I was going to wait until my DSE steering box came in, but they are on back order for a couple months. The replacement improved the slop a little, but didn't remove it completely. As Charlie mentioned, doesn't seem like they are adjusted right when rebuilt.
You seem to be interested in better cornering. Did you install upper and lower ball joints with .5" longer ball studs?
 
No, I'm using moog stock replacements for uppers and lowers. I have DSE springs up front and don't want to lower it anymore. Any advantages to installing the .5'' longer ball joints for the upper's only?
 
No, I'm using moog stock replacements for uppers and lowers. I have DSE springs up front and don't want to lower it anymore. Any advantages to installing the .5'' longer ball joints for the upper's only?
I don't think it has to do with lowering (but I could be wrong); I think his question has to do with the inherent suspension geometry issue with the g-body front end and apparently the different ball joints correct it. Sort of a good upgrade no matter what else you have going on. Probably helps with contact patch, tire on ground, or something like that.
 
Replacing the lower ball joints with the longer ones will cause the front to lower a little. I know this will help with cornering, but I'm already dropped 2'' and would rather not go lower.
 
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