Post your stall change experiences.

[bishir]

I'd like to know what kind of times people got just from changing their stalls. Currently I have a stock stall and a TA-49, but I'm starting to think I'd rather have a higher stall to launch the car better. Maybe some of your experiences will encourage me.

James

 

[wagon]

Well, I was running a stock D5 converter, and I think a 62 at the time. Jack Cotton talked me into a 9" 2800-3000 stall. Well, all I can say is that choice stunk. My times didn't change, the car smoked more, and my rear tires were wearing out alot faster.
Oh, once I figured out how to launch, the car knocked about three tenths off the times. I had an unrelated issue at the end of last year, so I wasn't able to truly realize the benefits. I ran some drag radials at the end of the year, and my short times improved even more, but something was still affecting my 1/4mile times. I think I have that worked out, so I should be able to launch even better now. It made enough of an improvement that I was able to pull a wheel with the DRs on it. My best last year was a 12.1 on 195/75 14" about 3800#. Ironed out, it should be a couple tenths quicker. I was running 12.4s before that I think.

Brian

 

[JoeNational]

iam running a ta-61 with the stock conveter but really soon gonna go i think 9" 3200 vigilante not to sure on the amount of stall, but hopefully will be able to lift the driver's side tire a lil off the ground hoping for a mid 11 sec run. but i didn't think with a ta-49 you needed to change your converter.

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by bishir
I'd like to know what kind of times people got just from changing their stalls. Currently I have a stock stall and a TA-49
..............James

Have seen "stock" converters from 2200-2800 stall. Guess this would vary with wear, original supplier or???

It may work with a TA-49 for your application, but generally we find an upgrade to a 12" 3000 LU the best combo.

 

[G McCall]

I'm not sure about some of the above "experiences" ......but my experience coincides with Nick's findings.
I pulled some mid 1.7 60fts with nearly stock setup (including turbo) but with a 12"-2800 stall many years ago. Stall is a must if you have certain power adders.

Remember though, a cheap made convertor is a waist. The convertor may stall at 2800-3000 allright but it also may be too loose on top end. You pay for what you get.

 

[wagon]

Originally posted by G McCall
I'm not sure about some of the above "experiences" ......

Whatever do you mean by that? I have witnesses and a framed 11x14 and a slew of witness. Oh, I already said witnesses. But I do have them. Lot's of 'em.
Sorry, I just figured you meant me, since
mine was the only "experience" listed.

Brian

P.S. 1.7 on 195/75 14"-ers, and 1.6 on 255/50 16" BFG DRs.

 

[UR50SLO]

We had a GN powered Camaro with a 350th trans with a 2800stall (for small block) went with a 3500 stall built for a buick
Car went from a 2.30 60' to a 1.5's 13.40's to 11.50's same basic mph 115-118mph. JE pistons .72 turbo small cam everything else is stock.

 

[BlackBeauty]

Great thread, I was wondering the same thing recently.

What's it like with a 3000 l/u for a daily driver?

 

[UR50SLO]

Drives just about like normal. No boost no big stall realy. The torque output realy makes a difference on the converter so if your just cruzing around it's a little soft but not real noticable but when you build boost on the foot brake or floor it from low rpm it's much easier to get motivating!

 

[cathan]

great subject.....I recently had my tranny worked on by a local who really knows these cars. The guy who did my first rebuild....well....did not.

What was found was an aftermarket convereter with a ? lowered stall speed. Why or how this happened I will never know. But he restalled it and built the trans with billet servo etc etc.

Before the rebuild the car would break traction when trying to build boost to launch at 1800 rpm....like a dog esp at 5000+ feet in Colorado.

Well I get the car back and it is a totally different animal...quickly builds 8-10 lbs @2800 rpm. What a huge difference.....this was the single best improvement on this car to date. This was a dramatic change, of course, because the trans was so sick for so long, but the change in stall speed is a great thing.....I think you would enjoy it......

Chris

 

[NEARING]

Had good results on my old 86 T-Type

Stock converter with 28x11.5x15 street slicks 13.09@109.x

With P/I 3200 NL converter 12.26@110.x Same boost level, tires ect.

 

[bishir]

Some great replies, thanks!

James

 

[S10xGN]

Just by switching from a 12" orange stripe (3000) to a 9.5" Vigilante (3400) my 60' time went from 2.4's to 1.7's on Nitto DR's (on street pavement ) and ET's went from 13.3's to 12.1's. By the way, driveability is BETTER with the Vig, too!

 

[postal]

I know enough about this to be dangerous. It appears that stall and slip are two different things (I kind of have a hard time understanding this). There are efficient and inefficient ways to to make a higher stall convertor. It appears that the larger diameter the convertor the more inefficient they have to make it to get the stall. The convertor is a viscus coupler. Its trying to transfer power though a non solid connection. The fins of one side of the convertor are acting on the tranny fluid and that fluid then tries to "grab"/ force the other fins to move. Now it pretty much is easy to see that fin angles are going to affect how hard the one side pushes on the fluid and also how easily the fluid can transfer the power to the other set. Now from that you can see that there are efficient and inefficient fin angles. Now you got to start addressing the size of the convertor and the fins. Basically since where not solidly transfering the power we are going through (for lack of better words) some kind of squishy / flexing / twisting / slipping kind of deal. Well if your trying to pass lets say 500 hp through this deal it only makes since that a larger one will do a better job because its physically bigger and can handle the power better. Maybe like tires in mud. Tires with small tread blocks can grab mud but it cant grab enough of it to transfer much power. Now you take a nice set of big old mudder tires with the bigger tread block, its going to be grabbing much more mud and therefore do a much better job of transfering the power. This is where the big convertors down fall comes. It grabs to good so you got to put crappy angles on the fins to get the stall speed up. This same crappy fin angles makes the convertor less efficient and makes it slip. This slipping is a total waste of power. Its converted to heat which takes out your tranny, and slows your car down. Yes it allowed you to build boost quicker but then bit you in the ass the whole rest of the track. Now your smaller diameter convertor can use better fin angles more more efficient power x-fer, but they will still stall because like the smaller tires they can't grab enough. This is the better of the two senerios. You can start running into problems if the convertor is too small because even with good fin angles it just its just too small to try to x-fer that much power through it........

Like I said I know just enough to be dangerous! So I decided to go from a 9" n/l art carr 3200 to a Turbo 400 with an 11" switch pitch convertor. Ill have crappy fin angles to get spooled and get the car moving. Then switch to low stall mode ( the fins actually change angle) and charge down the track with a decent sized convertor and efficient fin agles.

HTH: Jason

 

[postal]

I forgot to state that my experience with stall convertors was a 50/50 deal. I spooled and launched excellent but I was moving mph on the big end of the track. Thats when I started researching into this to try to find out a solution to my problem.

Jason

 

[justabuickv6]

S10xGN

Sent you a PM.