After a complete restoration of my 86 that included new doors, the power window switch on the drivers side became intermittent. I replaced the switch, used a bit of dielectric grease in the pin holes and carefully made the connection and reinstalled the blue plastic "hat" on the long pin. Still intermittent. If I push in on the switch body while activating the switch it works every time. Is the solution to squeeze the male and female connectors harder? It does seem they go all the way in. The switch works every time when it is not in the door holder. As soon as I reassemble the door card, problem arises. Afraid someday it will be stuck down and a storm will come up. Suggestions for a sure connection?
POWER WINDOW CONNECTION
- Thread starter Tom Kelly
- Start date
NY Twin Turbo
All the good stuff.....Times 2.
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2014
If it's an OE switch, it's old and worn out. If it's a new aftermarket switch, then it will work just like an OE switch that's old and worn out!
In other words....The OE switch is good until it's not good any longer. And the aftermarket switch sucks ass from day one. I'm sick of this crap and the same shit happens to me every time I mess with changing them out. Now, when I roll my drivers side window up, the passenger side goes down on it's own! Unless of course, I double hand the switch and push on the front finish plate while activating the button.
Dude! Good luck. I'll be watching this thread and rooting for ya!
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Which window has the trouble from the drivers side switch?
Could easily be the factory wiring connector has an internal wire that needs to be squeezed a bit to make a good connection internally. In that case it will never work right no matter how many good or bad switches are installed.
Could easily be the factory wiring connector has an internal wire that needs to be squeezed a bit to make a good connection internally. In that case it will never work right no matter how many good or bad switches are installed.
Neither window works from the drivers side switch unless I push on it. They both work when I push on the switch. The passenger side switch works fine.
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
Then pull out the switches and you will find a plastic holder thingie that holds the wire . Open that up and squeeze the wire terminals so that they make a better connection on the posts of the switch. That should cure your problem.
I'll give it a try. Thanks.
I'm correct in assuming it's safe to play with the switch and the harness with the battery connected as long as the key is off?
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
I hope you have a volt meter when working on electrical stuff? You should be good but double check with the bolt meter .
It’s amazing how a 25 minute job becomes three hours!!
I separated the switch from the harness and found that to “pinch” the connectors tighter you have to remove the cardboard backing from the connector. Easy enough. Sure enough, the black ground connector had spread apart and was probably the problem. Pinched all the wire connectors and then proceeded to put it all back together. Two problems, due to the twisting of the wires, they want to leave their little slots and the cardboard connector refused to re connect on the three little nibs that were supposed to do that job. So in desperation, I widened the three holes in the cardboard so they would fit easily over the nibs, used gorilla glue to hold the wires in their little slots, and then used gorilla glue to re-attach the cardboard. Seems like a lot of work but it did seem to work. If the problem recurs, I think I’ll go for an OEM harness. I did take the opportunity to finally get door strap bolts one size larger so they won’t keep coming loose. Thanks again.
I separated the switch from the harness and found that to “pinch” the connectors tighter you have to remove the cardboard backing from the connector. Easy enough. Sure enough, the black ground connector had spread apart and was probably the problem. Pinched all the wire connectors and then proceeded to put it all back together. Two problems, due to the twisting of the wires, they want to leave their little slots and the cardboard connector refused to re connect on the three little nibs that were supposed to do that job. So in desperation, I widened the three holes in the cardboard so they would fit easily over the nibs, used gorilla glue to hold the wires in their little slots, and then used gorilla glue to re-attach the cardboard. Seems like a lot of work but it did seem to work. If the problem recurs, I think I’ll go for an OEM harness. I did take the opportunity to finally get door strap bolts one size larger so they won’t keep coming loose. Thanks again.
NY Twin Turbo
All the good stuff.....Times 2.
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2014
They will come loose again. Then you will need an even larger bolt.
You're probably right. But the old ones lasted the first 100,000 miles so I m hoping the new ones can cover the next 100,000 miles. At about 2,500 miles a year, that's 40 years. I'll only be about 110.They will come loose again. Then you will need an even larger bolt.
So the repair seems to be working but I suspect it will act up again. I've been checking the internet and keep coming up with GM Part number 12101916. Some websites say "this doe not fit your 1986 regal" but the picture of the connector looks spot on. I suspect it is not a full harness as the price ranges from $25 to $40. It might be that generic grey wires are connected and you have to splice in the correct color wires from the old harness. Anyone have any definite info on this?
captndave737
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2006
I had the same problem years ago and had to take the connector apart and "rebuild" it. It's been fine since. I replaced the switch with an aftermarket one because the chrome was pitted. The new switch has been fine.
As far as the door strap screws go I put in rivet nuts and they never loosen. I did the same on the lower panels. The sheet metal screws was just a cheap east way for GM to manufacture in an era where most cars were gone in 5-10 years.
As far as the door strap screws go I put in rivet nuts and they never loosen. I did the same on the lower panels. The sheet metal screws was just a cheap east way for GM to manufacture in an era where most cars were gone in 5-10 years.
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
The problem isn't the connector on the back of the switch but the switch itself. Inside the switch are contact arms that get bent down over time plus I have seen the actuator also get worn to where it won't push the arm down far enough to have it make contact. This is why you have to push down on the actuator to make it work. I see this all the time on both the window switches and the lock switches. If you want to save the switch you have to take it apart and re-bend the contact arm. I have fixed countless switches over the years.
captndave737
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2006
Mine wasn't the switch. The wires in the connector were FUBAR. Once I fixed that the switch worked fine for years and was working fine when I replaced it for cosmetic reasons. My aftermarket switch is working fine although that's only been in 8 months.
