Putting heads back on this weekend...need install tips

[d0n_3d]

OK I just got the ARP headbolts and new Felpro 9441PT headgaskets...putting factory heads back on...I just cleaned the block as best as I could (used a flat scraper to get the old factory gasket material off) and wiped the pistons chambers down

now when installing the heads and gaskets...I put them on dry correct? also does anybody know the torque sequence on the bolts and to what ft/lbs??? I am running just stock everything, TA-49 turbo that will see 25 psi regularly...also what needs to be done when installing the bolts like which thread sealer is best, etc...or does the thread sealer come with the bolts?

is there any tips on cleaning up the heads? they are both really oily and nasty looking...is there something safe that I can soak those things in and then just pressure wash off? or do I have to clean by hand? sorry for all the questions...just wanna do it right the first time!

 

[gnsrule]

I just cleaned the block as best as I could

Make sure you got it ALL off. Dont use a scotchbite on a wheel unless u know what your doin. I like to dress the block w/ some like 220 paper wraped around a 2x4. It adds some scuff to hold the gasket a little bitter. After its all clean, I wipe it down w/ Laquer thinner before final assembly..
As far as sealing the bolts, I dont like anything w/ Teflon with heat. It always leaks eventually I've found. The MSDS sheets for Teflon is around 125*. melting point. Im sure there will be those that say they havent had a problem, prolly more than not too. I dont give a ****, I use Silicone. Ultra Blue, Black or Red. Dont use permatex #2, it suks.
When ya get to the intake, depending the gasket your usein, if its a stock steel shim, I like to Gasket cinch around the water ports and make sure you lay a nice even thick bead of silicon along the block rails. Dont finger smooth it. If your usein Felpro 1200's, put em on dry. All surfaces are Laquer thinner clean before assembly.
That pretty much wraps it up.
Good Luck

 

[machinegun]

I clean everything clean and I mean clean. Use fine scothbrite to help but not too much. Clean all with laquer thinner. As for myself, I use the ARP sealer for their studs and bolts. So far I have never had one leak using this sealer on the threads. Use a little oil under the heads of the bolts before install. Only a drop though. Install gaskets, I personally use stock GM on my stocker type setups or the cometics. If the GM stockers install dry, if cometics ues a thin spray layer of hylomar. Clean surfaces on both block and head and make sure they are dry. The torque is started from the inside going cross. There should be a torque sequence on gnttype.org. I always divide my total torque into thirds. I usually go to 80 on the ARP head bolts. Hope this helps. If you want to just add to the sealing, go to a gm dealer and get the GM seal tabs. I have never had to use them but I will sometimes drop them in when using cometics for safeties sake.

 

[dan lephart]

Heads up

I was told "Use GM head gaskets ONLY..." Vic Guilmino, Jack Cotton, Josh, Chris, the man that actually designed and engineered the head gaskets for the turbo Buicks (met him at the nationals and he filled me full of info on the background and engineering in the very special gaskets), etc. have all told me to stay away from the "others". I know nothing of the Fel Pro. Don't know if they will take the pressure. Hate to hear of going to all that work and then having to start over. I have done several head install. The above advise is great. Be clean...Follow the instructions mentioned above and in gnttype.org. DO NOT SET THE INTAKE BEFORE YOU TORQUE THE HEADS!! USE THE GM GASKETS... :

 

[d0n_3d]

excellent advice guys...yeah i forgot about using sandpaper or equivelant to scrub off the gasket stuff on the block and heads...i did that on my ranger when i blew a headgasket on that...

the felpro 9441PT gaskets are just like stock only they are better quality and they aren't made of that composite crap that is on the stockers...

now when installing everything...do i finalize torqueing down the heads FIRST and THEN lay in the intake manifold??? also which intake manifold gasket is the best??? i ordered the metal valley pan gasket from advance autoparts

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDet...EL&MfrPartNumber=MS96033&PartType=102&PTSet=A

will that be good? i didn't see any other types of gaskets except for the stage II engine...

 

[dan lephart]

haeds

Heads first then lay the intake. If not the intake will lift the head and causes less than needed clamping. There is a post somewhere that suggests laying the intake first... Ignore it, been there done it, with disastrous results. The compound structure is what makes the GM gasket work... Wish I wrote down that engineer's name. I was not with it that day. We were up all night doing the head gaskets.

 

[microELVIS]

One thing I did, just to add, was when tightening I went 25, 50, then 80. Just to make sure it was an even tightening.

 

[MSDGN]

There is a post somewhere that suggests laying the intake first... Ignore it, been there done it, with disastrous results

Hmmm?...that's the way I do it and have had no problems...put the heads on with head bolts only finger tight...use old intake gasket...install intake...torque to specs in sequence...then torque head bolts...I go to 85 ft lbs with ARP's in sequence of 10 ft lbs increments...if going to 85 ft lbs though use the ARP moly lube not oil...use GM's pipe sealant with teflon on threads...same stuff used on stock head bolts...also throw in a couple GM seal tabs...after head torque let things sit overnight then re-torque bolts one at a time in sequence...break loose 1/4 turn then torque to 85 flt lbs...this has worked for me and many others.

 

[musclecar neal]

Using the sandpaper on an assembled short block allows the abrasive from the paper to get in the cylinders and the lifter vallley. If you do that you should have 2 or more cans of brake cleaner around and compressed air to throughly clean the cylinders. Be sure to get all the junk that settles in the gap between the cylinder wall and the top ring. There will be quite a bit of trash there from your cleaning and prep. Also clean the lifter valley. Don't let trash get to the oil pan by washing down the valley as these engines have a poor drain system. In the pan there is a fitting that is about 1/4 inch high that does not allow all the oil to drain out. Any trash you wash down into the pan stays there and gets into the pick up. Change the oil BEFORE you start it up. If your using the ARP fasteners don't use ANYTHING else but ARP's thread sealer. The torque readings will be way off using silicone of any type. Use ARP's torque specs. What series ARP bolts did you buy? I suggest the 190,000 psi. To be very honest I would not use the Fel pro gaskets. They are prone to failure. I would use a set of Cometics and rest assured that you will not be doing this job again soon.

Hope this helps.

Neal

 

[Roger]

In NO WAY would I spend the $ to build an engine without using studs.

 

[musclecar neal]

Studs offer no greater clamping force than a bolt does. PERIOD. The sole reason for using studs is on an engine that sees frequent tear down and assembly. Using studs saves wear and tear on the threads in the block from removing and installing the heads bolts repeatedly. And that's it. Ask a fastener engineering. I did.