I need a "check valve" for current to keep power from feeding back through a second relay. What is this piece called and where can I find it? I'm attempting to wire up my two step and boost controller on one button. Using two relays to do this and should work if I can keep power from feeding back to the second relay....HELP!!
Quick ? for an elec. guru..
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musclecar neal
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Diode
What you need is a diode. Its a one way electrical valve so to speak. Radio Shack has them in various amp ratings. Or to get a better selction go to an electronics supply house
What you need is a diode. Its a one way electrical valve so to speak. Radio Shack has them in various amp ratings. Or to get a better selction go to an electronics supply house
salvageV6
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A diode may be what you need but what exactly is the circuit and why is power feeding back?
How is it wired and what exactly are you trying to do.
How is it wired and what exactly are you trying to do.
Salvage, don't know if this will make any sense but here goes...I'm trying to wire a boost control solenoid (factory) to limit boost and my two step off one button. Two step takes a break in the ground to activate while the solenoid which is normally open takes a break in the hot wire to deactivate. If the solenoid was normally closed or worked off ground it wouldn't be a problem. I pulled power for the two step from the brake switch to make the solenoid hot when the pedal is down on launch. The problem i'm having is the ground for the two step relay is feeding back somehow thru the relay and keeping the boost solenoid relay from working..I have this drawn out on paper, kinda hard to explain. I'm using two 5 wire relays...
salvageV6
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Yup you lost me.
One button can easily activate two relays that would have their isloated contacts trigger two different devices.
Diodes would only be needed as snubbers on the two relay coils.
I still don't know how the two devices you are installing are supposed to be hooked up and what exactly they are going to do.
Stock boost solenoid increases your boost not limits it, unless you are killing power to it or something.
More details needed and we can get you hooked up.
One button can easily activate two relays that would have their isloated contacts trigger two different devices.
Diodes would only be needed as snubbers on the two relay coils.
I still don't know how the two devices you are installing are supposed to be hooked up and what exactly they are going to do.
Stock boost solenoid increases your boost not limits it, unless you are killing power to it or something.
More details needed and we can get you hooked up.
Hey Salvage, I am doing exactly that with the boost control solenoid. I run this car on DR's and need to control boost get the car to 60'. It's been an 11.0 at 127 with ~1.90 short time. It tries to rip the tires off it about 20-30ft out of the hole with a 0psi launch. Hoping that the two step will shock the tires and with my help controlling the boost maybe the car will 60ft in the 1.7's....Anyways, I'm using one 4 wire Hella relay and one 5 wire relay and a two prong button. I can get the two step to work properly (button pressed completing the ground, and then pressing the brake pedal to make relay hot), but I can't make the boost control solenoid go off with pressing the button. It has my buddy and I both scratching our heads....
Hey STP,
Where did you place diodes? Typically the diodes on a coil like an AC compressor coil, etc are used as clamping diodes. They prevent a damaging spike caused by inductance which can damage the onoff swithc and cause rf static. Hve you placed diodes on coil as clampers? That wouldnt stop this problem. Do they jsut stay energized when you turn power off? If thats the case, maybe putting diode at source (12 v feed) of trigger (coil) would do it. You cant hurt anything trying. Then when 12 volts is removed the diode would prevent voltage from traveling thru backwqrds.
I bet im wrong!
ps Im in Bham too, where do you run at? Me, hwy 459 usually!
Where did you place diodes? Typically the diodes on a coil like an AC compressor coil, etc are used as clamping diodes. They prevent a damaging spike caused by inductance which can damage the onoff swithc and cause rf static. Hve you placed diodes on coil as clampers? That wouldnt stop this problem. Do they jsut stay energized when you turn power off? If thats the case, maybe putting diode at source (12 v feed) of trigger (coil) would do it. You cant hurt anything trying. Then when 12 volts is removed the diode would prevent voltage from traveling thru backwqrds.
I bet im wrong!
ps Im in Bham too, where do you run at? Me, hwy 459 usually!
salvageV6
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I think I can help when I get home tonight. 
They are watching me, they are always watching me.... 
They are watching me, they are always watching me....
salvageV6
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Actually I'm not all that familiar with a two-step.
If you could describe the timing sequence you want the events to take place it would be helpful.
Also is it a momentary button or on-off switch?
Just describe what you want to do in great detail and I am sure we can get a wiring diagram or very clear explanation to you.
If you could describe the timing sequence you want the events to take place it would be helpful.
Also is it a momentary button or on-off switch?
Just describe what you want to do in great detail and I am sure we can get a wiring diagram or very clear explanation to you.
Let's try this again....here's what i want to happen:
When I hit the brakes and hit the button I need to activate both relays. Supply a ground to the 2step and BREAK the ground on the boost solenoid. When I hit the button without the brake on I need to break the ground going to the boost solenoid. Maybe that will help Salvage....I am trying to post a pic of our wiring schematic but I have to scan it first. It is a momentary switch Salvage. Thx Scott
When I hit the brakes and hit the button I need to activate both relays. Supply a ground to the 2step and BREAK the ground on the boost solenoid. When I hit the button without the brake on I need to break the ground going to the boost solenoid. Maybe that will help Salvage....I am trying to post a pic of our wiring schematic but I have to scan it first. It is a momentary switch Salvage. Thx Scott
Try this.....
#1 relay
85 (+ brake switch) *
86 (ground)
87a (not used)
87 (ground)
30 (two step)
#2 relay
85 (+ brake switch) *
86 (ground)
87a (splited ground wire for solinoid)
30 (splited ground wire for solinoid)
87 (not used)
* need two 1 amp diodes #1N4002, with the two diodes with the striped going towards brake switch and the non striped side to the 85 of the relays. On the relay for the solinoid use a momentary push button one wire going to a 12 ignition source and the left wire going to 85 ternimal of relay for the soliniod.
Hope this is what you're looking for
#1 relay
85 (+ brake switch) *
86 (ground)
87a (not used)
87 (ground)
30 (two step)
#2 relay
85 (+ brake switch) *
86 (ground)
87a (splited ground wire for solinoid)
30 (splited ground wire for solinoid)
87 (not used)
* need two 1 amp diodes #1N4002, with the two diodes with the striped going towards brake switch and the non striped side to the 85 of the relays. On the relay for the solinoid use a momentary push button one wire going to a 12 ignition source and the left wire going to 85 ternimal of relay for the soliniod.
Hope this is what you're looking for
Thx, do both the relays need to get hot from the brake switch? I need the boost control solenoid to be hot without the brake depressed. Wiring it that way, would the two step shut off when the button was not depressed? Don't want to have the two step cut back on as I depress the brake going through the traps...I think I may have the diodes in the wrong spots and they may be backwards. I have one diode in the common ground wire for both relays and one diode in the common wire for both relays going to one side of the button...
turbov6 that is how we have it hooked up just not using the brake pedal on the second reply
we are using a switched 12v for that one
just dont think we have the diode in the right spot
http://www.meacham.pointclark.net/wtfj.JPG
we are using a switched 12v for that one
just dont think we have the diode in the right spot
http://www.meacham.pointclark.net/wtfj.JPG
STP,
I showed you a diagram from what you explained in the earlier post. You can easily modify this in anyway for what suits your needs, if you don't want it working at through the traps just use a on/off toggle to cut it off. But it should be fine they way it is.
And meach13,
You diagram is not quite the same like what I posted.
I showed you a diagram from what you explained in the earlier post. You can easily modify this in anyway for what suits your needs, if you don't want it working at through the traps just use a on/off toggle to cut it off. But it should be fine they way it is.
And meach13,
You diagram is not quite the same like what I posted.
